annoying orange light on dash

[brian102]

Just to the right of my speedometer is an orange light that looks like i would assume a radiator. Itd orange looks like it has a cap on the right. The guy i bought car from said it was low washer fluid light and the washer pump didnt work. Well i replaced the washer pump fixed that and light is still on. The sensor is plugged in back there. Also checkes coolant its full. Is there a coolant level sensor?

 

[97gst_spyder]

Coolant level is low. Or the sensor is stuck.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

It is the coolant light. Check the coolant levels.

 

[brian102]

Ive checked levels. Is it in the bottom or resvoir tank? And is it a dealer item?

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Yes it is at the bottom of the coolant resevoir. You should be able to fet one at a dealer.

 

[CODE4]

Just to the right of my speedometer is an orange light that looks like i would assume a radiator. Itd orange looks like it has a cap on the right. The guy i bought car from said it was low washer fluid light and the washer pump didnt work. Well i replaced the washer pump fixed that and light is still on. The sensor is plugged in back there. Also checkes coolant its full. Is there a coolant level sensor?

Classic throw a part at it until the light goes away, huh?

Nice

 

[brian102]

I did find this pigtail on my floor doubt it has anything to do with it but what is it
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n106/brian102/IMAG0643.jpg

 

[manifestmessiah]

Are you sure the plug is connected to the coolant reservoir? If it is then the sensor on the overflow could be bad. Not sure of the pigtail but if the plug on the bottom of the overflow isn't there then that's the problem.

 

[97gst_spyder]

If you dont care about the light (97-99 don't even have them), unplug the sensor on the bottom of the coolant tank. As for the connector in the pic. I'll bet you anything that your auto door locks don't work at all. That is the lock cylinder sensor. You have to take the door panel off and make sure your window is all the way up to get to it.

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

If that light is on it means the coolant overflow is low. Top it off. If it doesn't go out then, replace it. I don't agree that you should pull it out totally. If you start leaking and it sucks out all the coolant in the overflow, you won't know. Race car, who cares? Project/weekend warrior? I'd have it functioning.

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[jnf63]

Just to the right of my speedometer is an orange light that looks like i would assume a radiator.
Is there a coolant level sensor?

That CEL (light) indicates that your radiator's coolant reservoir (bottle) level is low/empty, or that your reservoir's sensor is not working properly. The sensor is on the bottom of the reservoir with a connector there as well. If you are lucky, then the sensor is stuck due to accumulated sediment. Unplug the sensor's connection (on the bottom of the reservoir), and then unbolt the bracket holding the reservoir in place, to remove it. Empty the reservoir, and then flush it out several times to rid it of any sediments. When you rotate the reservoir up-side-down and up-side-right quickly, you should hear the sensor mechanism slide up and down. It may be stuck, so tap on the bottom of the reservoir until it becomes free (basically, the sensor's circuit is "open" when the reservoir is empty, meaning the CEL lights, and the circuit is "closed" when the sensor moves upward with the fluid being full [like a float]). After doing this, and assuming that the sensor moves freely, re-connect it, fill it to the line, and see if your CEL goes off. If you are not lucky, and you have a bad sensor (doesn't move up and down), or bad wiring, then you need to find a used one that works. According to Mitsubishi Parts (locally), both the reservoir, and the sensor, are "discontinued/obsolete" parts. For me, my problem has to be wiring because my sensor works (using a multimeter connected to the sensor, while rotating the reservoir up-side-down and up-side-right, illustrates my sensor works). I elected to remove the bulb in my dashboard because my coolant reservoir is full, and I can check it periodically myself. No more annoying orange radiator coolant reservoir level CEL.
If you just remove the reservoir, and therefore have disconnected the sensor, then the CEL will stay lit. If your wiring is fine, then you could use a short piece of wire to "jump" the connection of the sensor's connector (simulating a "closed" circuit) after removing the reservoir. I tried this, and it would have worked (according to Mitsubishi Parts) had my sensor's wiring not have been bad/shorted somewhere between the "jumped" connector and the CEL.
Jim

 

[brian102]

Ok good write up on that ill try it tonight. Could i just loop the two pins together then it would think its full? I check fluids regularly

 

[jnf63]

Ok good write up on that ill try it tonight. Could i just loop the two pins together then it would think its full? I check fluids regularly

Thanks.
Yes.
Using a "loop" should work, assuming your wiring is fine. I attempted using a 1" U-shaped (bent) 14 gauge (solid household electical) wire placed/looped in the "socket" pins, but since my wiring must be bad, it did not work like it should have done.
Jim

 

[DSM1G90]

if you do the bypass, just keep an eye of the coolant level in the bottle and in the radiator.

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

if you do the bypass, just keep an eye of the coolant level in the bottle and in the radiator.

Defiantly. Nothing sucks more then sitting in traffic, 90 degrees outside, and the temp gauge starts climbing...

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[slickers111]

Defiantly. Nothing sucks more then sitting in traffic, 90 degrees outside, and the temp gauge starts climbing...

90? That would be nice. Try 115. Then you got AZ temps.

I have the same issue with my Taurus. I was told to check the sensor, to see if it was loose, but, this guy thought I was missing a radiator cause he didnt see a cap for it.
Its most likely just a shot sensor. Nothing to even worry about man.
However, if I were you, Id just change the coolant, and dump some into the rad, fill her up, then put some in the overflow.

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

^^Exactly. It's been mid nineties into hundreds the last few weeks. Just put the 20g in the Talon then had to put a colder t-stat in to deal with the turbo heating the radiator from the front and poor airflow because of the FMIC.

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[brian102]

Well the power locks work. Havent gotten a chance to pull res tank yet hopefully tonight

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

Well the power locks work. Havent gotten a chance to pull res tank yet hopefully tonight

The power lock sensor may have been changed that pigtail you found may be the old one.

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