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jccjr1982

15+ Year Contributor
99
1
Jan 21, 2006
San Diego, California
STATUS UPDATE:

CRANK ANGLE SENSOR was the culprit... (Shop discovered that the CAS was not sending a signal to the ECU, and upon inspection one of the wires were broken).

But now I got another problem, my car has HORRIBLE idle. The shop said that I'm running rich... could the 255 lph fuel pump I put in while it was broken be causing it?


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ORIGINAL POST:
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2 days ago: A normal day to work in the morning, started the Talon up, got about 3 blocks down the street to a stop sign, sat there idling about 10 seconds, and the engine just died. Tried to start it back up a few times... no go. Car just keeps on cranking, but won't start.


Fuel Pump does NOT engage when I switch to accessory, or when I apply 12v directly to the fuel pump check terminal... I would think "It's the pump", but ... I replaced the fuel pump (255lph TREperformance).... Still won't start, and no "noise" from pump.


To get the basics out of the way:

Ignition coil's secondary resistance readings within range
Replaced fuel pump
Checked voltage to the fuel pump harness = 11.3 volts
Tried another set of wires and plugs
Fluid levels are good
Belts are intact
No leaks under the car
Car has plenty of 91 octane
Hooked my laptop to the car with an OBDII logger, no codes thrown or pending codes
Fuses are all good
Checked the ECU harnesses and gauge splices, all appear ok
Checked, cleaned, and reseated the plugs going to the Fuel Pump
Resetted the electrical system


BTW ignore the replies that don't make sense, as this posted was merged with another one of mine for some reason ROFL
 
I had the same problem with No spark or fuel my crank sensor went out..As he said start simple check your ecu for burn spots.

Jesse
 
Well I checked the harnesses connecting to the ECU since I spliced some wires there for my gauges... there's no open or shorts...

My check engine light comes on and goes off normally when I turn the key, and my OBDII logger establishes a connection successfully... does that indicate that the ECU is working correctly? I already bumped my head pretty hard checking the harnesses, and I'll remove the ECU if I have to, but I thought I'd just ask this first to literally avoid a bigger headache.
 
I replaced the fuel pump (255lph TREperformance).... Still won't start, and no "noise" from pump.

I also FINALLY gotten a multimeter. I checked my ignition coils:

Secondary Resistance (directly from high-voltage terminals) readings are within range...

But I have a question about the Primary coil resistance... There's a triangular plug next to the coil packs, and there's a very similiar one attached to the timing belt cover. Which one do I test from?

I tested the one next to the coil pack, and the reading are within range. But when I test the one attached to the timing belt cover, I get NO readings...
 
Still having problems :(

I checked the voltage of the fuel pump harness, I get 11.3 volts.... sounds right considering my battery is about dead. So that elimates the harness from being the culprit right?
 
STATUS UPDATE:

CRANK ANGLE SENSOR was the culprit... (Shop discovered that the CAS was not sending a signal to the ECU, and upon inspection one of the wires were broken).

But now I got another problem, my car has HORRIBLE idle. The shop said that I'm running rich... could the 255 lph fuel pump I put in while it was broken be causing it?
 
255 w/out a afpr is crazy...that could def be your problem... other than that check the small things..vacume leaks ect..


Jesse
 
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