Air Conditioning question

[Alphahookups]

So I pull into my house today and all the sudden I hear this noise, kinda like the car is overheating. I quickly turn the car off, and tons of pressure is being released towards where the ac compressor is. So after the car is shut off the pressure continues to release for another few minutes until all is released. Is this the AC line losing pressure? I checked under the car and it drained out about a quart of some really really thin oil(not motor oil). I couldnt pin point the exact spot it was coming from put I would say somewhere near the alternator.

Is this common? Am I correct in my assumption that it is the AC?

Thanks guys.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

AC liquid (freon is clear I believe...or green, one or the other, but dont touch it) get a glove and if the liquid that is dripping is redish, its PS fluid, thats what it sounds like to me, ps line breaks, oil like liquid, maybe sprays some on the heat shield, smokes and sizzles, in the alternator area.
Keep us posted on this thread with your findings,

Dustin

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

You won't have a "quart" of oil in your ac. It may appear so. Have you had it converted to 134a? If it's still r-12 take one of the caps off and depress the schrader valve. If it has pressure, then it wasn't your ac. If nothing happens, then voila. It was your ac. Or, you could simply turn your ac on with the engine running. Does it still work? If you have had a catastrophic failure it should be fairly easy to pinpoint. Check your lines for wet spots. Or you can have it dye tested. Most shops can do that. If you have had a rupture in the rubber part of the line and it's not near any sharp bends or other obstructions you may be able to have it repaired at some parts houses. Locally my Napa does this for a lot less than buying a line. Used lines are your next option. Take a picture and send it to me. I may be able to help you.

Lastly. Convert it to 134a. Replace your reciever/dryer and add 8 oz of ester or PAG oil with your conversion kit after you make your repairs. Take it to a shop and have them evacuate the system and re-charge it for you. Do NOT just shoot in 134a on a non evacuated system. It won't work properly. If you put the oil directly in the compressor, hand turn it around 10 revolutions so you don't hydraulically lock it when you fire it up. It's bad for the compressor and your wallet.

Good Luck

 

[Alphahookups]

Thanks for the replys. Its definitely not the ps fluid. The power steering was fine and it wasnt a yellowish color fluid coming out.

I can depress the pressure schrader valve tommorow and see if there is pressure.

If it ends up being the AC, is it still safe to drive the car.

BTW, the AC didnt work before the leaking happened.

Thanks again.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

The ps fluid isnt yellow...or atleast mine isn't. If it were me I would pull the hole AC system and get the weight savings and clean up the engine bay a bit. start the car up, and listen in the engine bay with the hood up(wear glasses just in case anything squirts out or breaks), and rev the engine to get a better idea of where the noise and fluid is coming from. Oh yeah, and if it is the AC it will be safe to drive with it in this state long as it doesn't mess with anything else.

Dustin

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

For the most part yes it's safe. In theory the compressor could lock up, break the belt, throw it into the alterntor belt and thus kill the power steering, but it's a long shot at best. On the other hand, the low pressure cycling switch will prevent the compressor from coming on anyway ;o). Just because the ac didn't work, doesn't mean it doesn't have or didn't have refrigerant in it.

Good Luck

 

[Alphahookups]

Well the car starts up fine and I dont use the AC anyway. Is the AC system constantly under pressure or only when the compressor is on, because I dont even use my AC(since it wasn't blowing cold). Thanks again for the replies.

 

[Carlz0r]

Well the car starts up fine and I dont use the AC anyway. Is the AC system constantly under pressure or only when the compressor is on, because I dont even use my AC(since it wasn't blowing cold). Thanks again for the replies.

The A/C system is constantly under pressure. When off, both the high and low sides will be equal pressure. While running, the high side (compressor to evaporator) will be a higher pressure than the low side (return from evaporator to compressor).

A quick note for the second poster. A/C liquid would be the oil, as under atmospheric pressure, refrigerant is a gas. This liquid that you would see is the oil. If it is clear, it means it is not contaminated. If it is green or brown, or any other color than clear then it has become acidic and should be flushed and replaced with new oil. (This is provided we are talking about mineral/poe oil. I am unsure about PAG as I have never personally worked with it).

Another quick note for anyone really is that even though refrigerant is commonly referred to as freon, this is only correct if you are talking about R12.

Finally, if you decide to depress the schraeder valve to see if there is any pressure left, wear a thick pair of gloves. If you don't, you may get chemical burns if enough R12 comes in contact with your skin.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Oh ok, didnt know it was oil, I knew it was liquid and that it was clear because I see the mechanics at my families shop putting it in, but never taking it out. Yes I was refering to r12 when I was talking about freon, I just didnt think it nessisary to type this. Truely I would just be rid of the whole ac system, save around 35lbs + the weight of the liquid in the system, and get a cleaner looking engine bay, and more air can get to the radiator because the ac condesor is now out of its way.

Dustin

 

[Carlz0r]

Oh ok, didnt know it was oil, I knew it was liquid and that it was clear because I see the mechanics at my families shop putting it in, but never taking it out. Yes I was refering to r12 when I was talking about freon, I just didnt think it nessisary to type this. Truely I would just be rid of the whole ac system, save around 35lbs + the weight of the liquid in the system, and get a cleaner looking engine bay, and more air can get to the radiator because the ac condesor is now out of its way.

Dustin

I completely agree. If the a/c isn't working anyway, may as well just tear it out. Save weight, gain performance. Definitely a win/win situation.

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

I've seen it done several times. I'm old and prefer my air cold. Unless you are racing the car you might want some sweetie to ride with you on a hot day. Would be a shame to see her "glisten" hmmmmm?

Anyway, take care and good luck