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AEM wideband controller

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Lets See here.

The AEM is a true wideband controller, the oxygen sensor they use is a true wideband oxygen sensor. Wideband sensors will always have at least 5 wires, 2 heater wires, 1 ground wire, 1 signal wire (0-5v output), and 1 signal reference (5v input). Normal oxygen sensors, 0-1v, supply their own voltage when heated to above 600 degrees F, and normally operate at about 1400 Degrees F. If you buy a wideband oxygen sensor for under $100 you got a deal, if you're spending less than $50, it's either used, bad, or you're being lied to. O2 sensors with less than 5 wires, are, well, narrowband.

If you're using your stock narrowband o2 sensor output, you might as well just pull your motor out and drop it off of a cliff. For one, they are very innacurate unless you're trying to see if you're running richer than 14.7, or leaner than 14.7, and that's about it. From 0v to .2v, is anywhere between 10:1 a/f, to 14.7:1 a/f, and from .8v to 1.0v is anywhere between 14.7 a/f to 20:1 a/f, and between .2 and .8 is, you guessed it, 14.7:1, stoich, the peak a/f for minimal emissions. I've tuned several cars, starting at below 10:1 to 12:1, and the $30 , the $50, or the $200 a/f gauge didn't fluctuate a bit, from beginning to start. Because, well, the stock oxygen sensor isn't made for tuning, it's made for helping the computer keep harmful emissions to a minimum.

Also, you better do some research if you think UEGO, Lambda, and Wideband are different. Lambda is another name for measuring air fuel ratios. So a 14.7:1 in Lambda is 1, 12:1 is .80, 17:1 is 1.15, 19:1 is 1.3. Easy Enough? UEGO is.. well, Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor! and that measures.. Exhaust Gas Oxygen! There are only 2 types of oxygen sensors. Narrowband, and wideband. Horiba, uses the bosch unit (used with AEM) OR uses the NTK N1H1, which is used on FJO, DIY-WB, PLX, and every other company that makes a wideband. Which one horiba uses depends on which system you sacrafice your arm and leg to own.

So, a wideband is a wideband, the big difference is, well, how well calibrated is it, or is it even calibrated? Did you go buy a bunch of parts from Radio Shack and download some schematics? Do you have a calibrated wideband to test along side to see if it's calibrated correctly? I sure hope so, I've seen plenty of DIY units saying 11:1 and be measure more than 2 whole parts of air off (that's add or subtract 2 from the 11)!!

As for the AEM EMS being a highly advanced system, yes, it is for the price you pay, you get a lot more than you pay for and they offer an affordable wideband system that you can add on. You can get a motec and get something much better, but you're going to pay at least $3000 just for the EMS itself, no wiring, sensors, harness...nothing...

As for my favorite wideband? I'd say FJO. You have the option of purchasing the datalogging package, a display, and can be integrated to use with an EMS and are calibrated at the factory. They are very well built and can take a beating. If you haven't seen their video, check it out on their site (www.fjoinc.com), they freeze their controller in a block of ice, boil it, and drive over it with a car, and the whole time they have a display running off of it showing the a/f ratio. FJO is also very good with warranty on their products. The price is a bit more than some of the others, but "You get what you pay for."


Joe Schesso
Horsepowerfreaks, Inc
www.horsepowerfreaks.com
(503) 256-5600
 
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