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AEM Tru Boost EBC wire tap

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tonyseagle

15+ Year Contributor
300
3
Jan 28, 2006
Valdosta, Georgia
I read on these forums that most people use the ciggarette lighter to tap their guages. I got it all wired up and it works fine and all, but after a few days my car won't start. Somehow it drains my battery. Well, I noticed that there are 4 different wires coming off of the ciggarette lighter assembly itself. After playing with that for a while, I notice that the top two are turned on when the lights are turned on. Am I supposed to tap it to this and always have my lights on?

I switched the wires and for about 2 weeks I havent had any problems. I believe this is because I didnt have my boost solenoid on at the time (it was giving me the ER5 code and I had it sent in). Now that I have it re-installed...I go to start my car up, and it's completely dead. As in....no lights. I can't even lock my car using the lock switch.

Any insight would be muchly appreciated. If its as simple of a fix as switching the wires to only come on when the lights are on please let me know.


Thanks!
 
Yeah there are only two sets of wires on there (The one that I currently have tapped and the other one that only comes on when you turn on the lights). I'm assuming that I have it tapped into the one that comes on with the ignition...cause it doesnt stay on when I turn off the car; however, my battery is somehow getting drained....its weird.
 
I had my laptop adapter hardwired into the cig lighter 12v and it drained the same way. Use a different 12v source, there are plenty of them by the ecu. I also believe that the TruBoost has two 12v wires that need to be tapped, One for the solenoid and one for the gauge. Perhaps it has something to do with the error you got; the solenoid could be drawing power or grounding it somehow after you shut down the car. I would say find another 12v source and see if it does the same thing. That way you can isolate the problem to either the TruBoost or the cig lighter.

Pete
 
The wiring for the gauge and the wiring for the solenoid are one in the same. Later today I'm going to take a pick of the wires that I currently have tapped. Is it possible I have it grounded improperly? This didn't happen again till I re-installed the solenoid.

Thanks!
 
It probably does have something to do with the solenoid. You having to send the gauge back could have been another sign of a defective solenoid. If the solenoid is bad it could be frying something in the circuit by have a short inside itself (??). These are theories but things I would look for. I would also double check all wiring.

Pete
 
Any updates on this? I'm going to instal my AEM TruBoost this weekend. But does the electric boost controllers HAVE to hook up to the top nipple on the Tial wastegates? Or can you use the side one?
 
Follow the vacuum diagram for external wategate in the instruction manual that comes with the gauge. I have installed like 50 of these and they are great if installed correctly.
 
Any updates on this? I'm going to instal my AEM TruBoost this weekend. But does the electric boost controllers HAVE to hook up to the top nipple on the Tial wastegates? Or can you use the side one?

You do not HAVE to, but, in my mind at least, a "clean" air supply from the intake manifold and a "clean" air supply to the EBC is best. I have mine run as follows:

Top Port on WG -> EBC
Side Port on WG -> Manifold Pressure -T- EBC
 
You do not HAVE to, but, in my mind at least, a "clean" air supply from the intake manifold and a "clean" air supply to the EBC is best. I have mine run as follows:

Top Port on WG -> EBC
Side Port on WG -> Manifold Pressure -T- EBC

Thanks. Reason I ask is because I'm running the stock 2G mani with external gate and with that top port I had to remove it to close my hood even cutting out some fiberglass from the CF hood.
 
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