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Advice for Rebuild

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bane3d

15+ Year Contributor
627
17
Aug 30, 2005
St Peters, Missouri
So I've been gone from the community for about a year and it's time to ramp my project back up. Story: Car blew up, bought new engine from seller A. Shipped to shop B. Shop B consulted seller A about install. Component failure. Engine oil starved and screeched to halt. Now I have an oil starved engine on a stand in the garage waiting to be worked on.

I have no experience with tearing down engines, very little room to work in, and enough tools to pull the engine.

Challenge. Wife told me I have a hard limit of $2k to get this up and running asap.

Things I need:
Transmission fluid
Oil
AC charged
New front axles (I can post pics and get your opinions)
Front Upper control arm drivers side (probably get both and be done)
Piping for 14B turbo and misc parts
Working engine (6bolt block with 2g head that ran for about 1500 miles with no CEL)
Prothane kit to replace all rubber
Misc clamps and bolts (probalby about $150 - $200 in hardware)

Options:

1. Have shop tear apart current engine, probably replace bearings, rehone cylinders, possibly replace valves and maybe valve guides, assemble

or

2. Shop has a 6bolt(unknown if it has the oil squirters) with a 1G head with ross pistons, manley rods and already tested. They would get my old block, pull my arps, BSE, and move over my 2G head, mill it, check the valves, and get it up and running. Then I'd part out the old block and 1G head to pad my budget and recoup the cost of the engine ($1500). He agreed to swap labor for labor to have me do his computer work.

The question is which seems like the better option? Which is more feasible? Should I pull the head first, take a look and then go from there? My car was running like a champ until my OFH lost a brass fitting to my gauge and dumped my oil. Didn't notice until 2 lurches and a loud screech. I can turn the crank on my engine but it's tight.

I'll start snapping pictures of assembly and post in the blog once I get started.

d
 
Get the 6 bolt.

Not sure what others will have to say but in my experience an oil starved (seized) engine takes a lot of work to get back to spec. When an engine lacks lubrication everything gets very hot and gets badly scored and pitted. Chances are the head is ruined or will need extensive machine work.

Save yourself the headache and go with the 6 bolt.
 
My current engine is a 6bolt with a 2g head. The new engine I'm looking at is a 6bolt with a 1g head. I'll just have them pull my head, inspect, mill, and bolt it on. They'll transfer over all of the misc add on parts including the BSE, do the timing, and finally prime the engine. I may even have them drill out the oil channels to improve flow as I've seen in another thread. I think I agree that an overheated engine can have potential issues that may not make it worth while.

Anybody else have any opinions to chime in with? I'm hoping to finalize the paperwork, drop off the engine to the builder and get started wednesday or thursday.

d
 
I would say go with the shop's 6bolt and put your 2g head on it. As long as the 2g head is in good condition.
 
Thank you. That's what I'm planning on doing. Just a real pita to find the time to get it all setup right now. I feel like I'm about to stroke out between kids activities, wife activities, overtime, and obligations. Hoping that once I get the engine back, I can't start the photo documentary and blog of the build.

d
 
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