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Acheive 350+ hp on a 98 gst spyder

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wickedimports18

Probationary Member
2
0
Sep 29, 2008
EL PASO, Texas
I have had a 90 gst, 91 gstx, 96 gs modded, and a 98 gs modded as well. These are fun cars to build and kick butt with. Im getting a 98 gst spyder soon and i want to get between 300 to 350 hp without doing any internal mods. Does any know or have a good idea of how to acheive this? I know the basics, but what i need is specific parts not just general like: a turbo, fule pump, etc. I neet to know type of turbo and bov and so forth. I have been reading some forums but none in detail. Can anyone please help a DSM LOVER??? i have been reading on the gt35 but its half and half on the forums. And any help received will also be credited if the car makes it to show car.
 
To achieve 350 whp (assuming you're talking about whp) I would go with an FP 18g or a 50 trim. An evo 16g can achieve this goal but will be harder on the turbo and would take more. 255 pump, 660cc injectors or higher, depending on tuning methods, FMIC, 3" exhaust, boost controller and boost gauge, ported manifold, and a tuning device (dsmlink, safc, maft etc.) Before you do any mods I highly advise a full tune up, all belts, oils, fluids etc.
 
i think you should go, an standalone ecu, evo3big16g turbo or bigger, 650cc injectors, big FMIC, walbro 255 LPH, 264/272 hks cams. And like saechao04 says: before any mod do a full tune up, change belts, pumps, etc...
 
i think you should go, an standalone ecu, evo3big16g turbo or bigger, 650cc injectors, big FMIC, walbro 255 LPH, 264/272 hks cams. And like saechao04 says: before any mod do a full tune up, change belts, pumps, etc...

Standalone sounds a little out of his league. Not to mention it will cost a lot of money. I would stick with a piggy back system (safc, dsmlink, greddy).
 
If your talking pump gas you will make more power on a non GT series turbo. a good 50-60trim setup some mild cams and all stock other stuff should get you into the mid-high 300s on pump gas. I used to do 379whp all day long on 91 octane with a 60trim/turbonetics mani and all stock everything else except cams, exhaust, intake and DSMLink of course
 
3in turboback,550cc,DSM LINK or S-AFC.FMIC,Wideband o2, Big 16g turbo or 50trim,boost gauge,255 walboro fuel pump,AFPR, and here you go 350whp or even more ;)

when i had this setup:
small 16g,550cc,190 fuel pump,2.5 turboback,stock smic,no AFPR,and i used maf-t gen II to tune my airfuel,it made 294whp ;)
 
3in turboback,550cc,DSM LINK or S-AFC.FMIC,Wideband o2, Big 16g turbo or 50trim,boost gauge,255 walboro fuel pump,AFPR, and here you go 350whp or even more ;)

when i had this setup:
small 16g,550cc,190 fuel pump,2.5 turboback,stock smic,no AFPR,and i used maf-t gen II to tune my airfuel,it made 294whp ;)

wow..i hope nothing wasnt wrong with that dyno.
 
What does the "Spyder" aspect have to do with anything? WTF The extra weight perhaps?

My answer: Nothing.
 
I dont know the the exact weight of spyder but i know they are heavy as F***. When my starter went bad I had 4 of my friends help push start my spyder and it was shocking to them to feel how heavy my spyder was.
 
The weight difference is around 75 lbs. IIRC A lot of different things contribute to a heavy feel when your pushing a car. You need to weight it on a scale. My car with leaded fuel, the only real weight removal is the rear seat and panels which weigh nothing really was 3050 with a lot of stuff added in like a 10pt roll cage, dual 10lb fire bottles window net & braces huge chassis reinforcement in the front and parachuge mount and all that in the rear, 1/2 tank of fuel, etc . I'm probably a good bit lighter now and could be 100lbs or more lighter if I took out the chute mount and all the chassis work. The spyder weight difference is not so big and especially compared to other cars out there where the vert is a huge weight penalty. Drag CD is .32 vs .29. 32 is still very respectable as well.
 
hi guys . well im kind of sad... friday i took my gst to dyno and didnt go too well... i only made 230 hp.. i was wondering whats the problem if i have all the mods to maybe make 350..
3in exhaust, full intercooler system, 20g turbo, manual boost controller, 650 injectors, fuel pump.and safc. i just dont know whats wrong.. may be the aftermarket tubular that i got from ebay ?? it seems to be small... any ideas??please helpme thanks.
 
To achieve 350 whp (assuming you're talking about whp) I would go with an FP 18g or a 50 trim. An evo 16g can achieve this goal but will be harder on the turbo and would take more. 255 pump, 660cc injectors or higher, depending on tuning methods, FMIC, 3" exhaust, boost controller and boost gauge, ported manifold, and a tuning device (dsmlink, safc, maft etc.) Before you do any mods I highly advise a full tune up, all belts, oils, fluids etc.

OVERKILL for real.

OP, the 16g will have no problem at all running you to 350 horsepower. Would mind telling us what your budget is going to be at?
 
hi guys . well im kind of sad... friday i took my gst to dyno and didnt go too well... i only made 230 hp.. i was wondering whats the problem if i have all the mods to maybe make 350..
3in exhaust, full intercooler system, 20g turbo, manual boost controller, 650 injectors, fuel pump.and safc. i just dont know whats wrong.. may be the aftermarket tubular that i got from ebay ?? it seems to be small... any ideas??please helpme thanks.

I have a joke for you...Knock knock..."who's there"...What's in your motor....
 
lots of people have over 350 horsepower on stock internals. Do you have a logger? What do you have your boost level set at?
 
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