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1G AC Recharge Problems.

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4G63dsmpwr

20+ Year Contributor
307
0
Sep 13, 2002
Easton, Massachusetts
Hey guys, I recently went out and picked up a conversion/recharge kit for my AC system in my 90 AWD.

Well I hooked up everything like this: On the low side (fitting on compressor I hope?) I let two 12 oz cans entirely in there. the compressor took the Freeon, and I didn't hear any leaks with the car off.

Now, I never heard the compressor actually turn on. I know most cars, it usually kicks on automatically after it has enough freeon in the system to run. Is it the same with our cars?

After adding 24oz of freeon (it says our cars need approx 30oz) there was no change at all in the temperature of the air entering the car through the vents, not colder at all.

I was just wondering if anyone else had any input, or past expierence?

Anything I can check to see if its a leak, the compressor, something else?

Thanks alot for the space, if you guys need any details just let me know!
 
you need a service manual for the wiring diagrams. The ECU triggers the compressor when there is approx 45 PSI sensed at the combination switch, and the engine coolant is not too hot. If you dont have a set of r-134a guages then you should take it to a shop. there is an excellent website, www.aircondition.com which is a good primer on AC.

Stay away from the autozone "death kits". Charge the system with oil and r-134a, dont use any "conditioners or "sealers"/
 
I have one of those Haynes manuals - it has some wiring diagrams in it, will this be enough or?

Why do I need to know the wiring, to locate the combination switch? Is there any type of fuse or anything that might've blown in the past?

Thanks for all the help!
 
You need to pull vacuum on the system for about 45-60 minutes before recharging. The moisture is the system will degrade the cooling of the ac. Get you a vacuum pump and redo it. Ive done it and no problems.
 
Ok well I'll grab the vacuum pump and vacuum out the system if this information doesn't change anything:

I just went out there, and tested the AC system pressure with a new line and guage. The pressure is holding steady for the past few days, around 60PSI (more than supposed to be in there) I haven't heard the compressor "kick" in or anything like that....

I also checked all the fuses in the little fuse box on the driver's side, back of the engine bay. All fuses looked pretty good and none were seperated.

So my entire system is holding pressure no problem, no leaks or anything like that. No fuses are blown, does this just mean that the compressor is JUNK :( ?

The compressor, to the best of my knowledge is not turning on or anything like that...

The previous owner hadn't had the car converted/recharged for YEARS... The AC hadn't worked for a while. Is there anyway to jump start the compressor, or help it get started again after a few years? The AC belt is also new, and tentioned correctly..

I'm really stuck and the temps outside are getting HOTTER! LOL it'd be really nice to have the AC back! Thanks for all this help! Please help me solve this annoying problem!
 
if you can reach down to your a/c compressor itself, you will see a little wire coming out of the pulley with a clip on the end of it. Find a way to send 12volts to that wire, and if you hear the clutch "click" into place, it's ok.. If you send power to that wire, and the compressor does nothing, then the clutch is bad.
IMO, if the clutch is bad, i'd just go ahead and replace the compressor itself.
 
Thanks very much for the reply.

I looked in that area, and I see the following:

There is a single wire coming off a big harness of wiring right near the intake manifold. The wire goes to the little black connector, near the low pressure hookup on the top of the compressor. There is a single wire that comes out of the connector, which wires right into the are of the pulley. There is also another wire which goes into the pulley, but as far as I can see its just a ground, because it has a little tab thing on it, and the wire just ends on top of the compressor.

Now which wire do I send the 12V too? The wire right near the pulley, the one that goes through the connector? Where do I need to send the 12V to the wire right near the pulley? Or on the wire, away from the compressor and near the intake manifold?

I was also reading on this site, and they said that with the AC on, if you put the key to the on position you should hear a loud "clack" type of sound. I just tried this, with no sounds at all, except for the fan kicking on.

I have no AC fan - would this be the reason why its not working? Do you need the AC fan?

Thanks for all this help!

Sorry if this is confusing, I'm trying my best to figure out this problem!
 
I think you need the ballast resistor for the ac to work. Itr is the ceramic block that was bolted to the ac fan with 2 wires going to it. This is seperate from th fan wiring. It looks like about 3"x1"x1' with 2 wires.
 
If the AC fan wasn't there, where would this ballast resistor be located?

Thanks very much for the help. I did not remove the fan, so I'm not sure what was left behind.

Thanks again for the help!
 
The ballist resistor was bolted to the ac fan. If you look at the plug that went to the ac fan, you will see it is four wires. The black w/white stripe and the blue w/black stripe went to the ballast resistor. I would go to the local scrapyard and try to find one. That way, you will see the exact wires and how it is mounted.
 
Alright, so I just need to grab that part off a car at the junkyard? Do I have to run the entire fan, or is better than just the single radiator fan?

Thanks for all the help!
 
4G63dsmpwr said:
Alright, so I just need to grab that part off a car at the junkyard? Do I have to run the entire fan, or is better than just the single radiator fan?

Thanks for all the help!



Depends on what the engine temp gets to with the ac on and just 1 fan. If it gets too hot, you will need to reinstall the fan. Waht turbo do you have? If its a 50 trim or something like that, you will have to get a slimline fan to clear the turbo.
 
Well my turbo is certainly no 50trim LOL!

I'm running the HUGE... 14B ;)

With the stock turbo, and without the AC fan should I be alright? I'm only asking so I know what to grab (the fan/just the part I need) when I take the trip to the junkyard.

Thanks alot for the help!
 
It wouldnt hurt to grab the fan also. You might not need it but it is hard to say without knowing how warm the car will run with the ac. Get it, run the car without it first. If the temp gets a little warm, add the fan. If it runs cool enough without the fan, return it and get your $ back.
 
Thanks alot for all the help!

I'm off to the yard for the AC fan, will let you know if that fixes the problem so people with the same problems down the road can fix theirs as well.

Thanks again!
 
4G63dsmpwr said:
Thanks alot for all the help!

I'm off to the yard for the AC fan, will let you know if that fixes the problem so people with the same problems down the road can fix theirs as well.

Thanks again!
Could be you just over charged the system and the high pressure cut off switch is not letting the compressor start if you have 60 psig on the low side with 134a thats much too high should be more like 35 psig on low side and 90 on high side of compressor try letting some refrigerent out or recover the entire system put the vacuum pump on for 6-8 hours and pull down to 30 inhg then recharge the system
been a ac tech. for 30 years and most times people over charge there systems btw if you did overcharge and you bypass the high pressure cut off you will blow the valves and seals out of the compressor good luck !
 
Just wanted to let you guys know that the fan wasn't the problem.

I'm gonna relieve some pressure from the AC system, and see if that fixes the problem.

Thanks for all the posts/help everyone.
 
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