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A few pics of my ride

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Trans and exhaust is back in/on. I also got one piece of fuel line done, working on the piece that goes from the tank to the first filter but I have to order some other fittings. -12AN fuel fittings are no joke.

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I wish you would take a day and scrub and wash the engine bay and then put the motor in. That motor/tranny/turbo setup is too beautiful to live in such a dusty/grimy bay.

Hell I would even do it for you if you lived close by. But not everyone has OCD like me;)
 
Hey Dan, why don't u just run the feed line from the oil filter housing? That way u can get cleaner oil going to that turbo.
 
Hey Dan, why don't u just run the feed line from the oil filter housing? That way u can get cleaner oil going to that turbo.

It's funny how people think you get cleaner oil when feeding from the oil filter housing. If you run a good oil filter, your oil should be clean, regardless if its at the head or filter. It isn't "dirty" oil that lubricates the cams and rockers. I would choose between feeding the turbo from the head or OFH depending on the oil pressure required by the turbo.

Anyways, fantastic build :thumb:

Most would have already parted out by now, way to set your mind to something and then carrying it out to the end.
 
I finally got around to ordering the rest of the fuel fittings. I had to change the setup around a bit. One thing I never accounted for was the exhaust. The way I had it setup was a line from the tank to a filter, that filter attached directly to the pump, another filter attached to the other side of the pump (passenger side of the car) then a line from that filter tot he rail. Well when I put the exhaust up, it hit the fitting on that filter. I will now be running a line from the pump to the filter, which I plan to mount in the engine bay. I also sent out the valve cover to get coated in wrinkle black with polished letters to match the turbo.
 
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Pics with the new valve cover.

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You have sex all in the center then disaster all around it. Lol Plans on cleaning up the wiring at all? Mil-spec harnesses are out now, looking into one maybe?
 
Actually the rust is all from sitting on concrete. It looks worse in the pictures and is all surface rust, there is no rust on the body but how do you stop rust from getting on things like the factory driveshaft parts etc. I am going to have a lot of this stuff powder coated though.
 
It's only on the Link forums from what I gather, but here is the link to that thread/post. ECMTuning User Support Forums

Otherwise, Here is a complete copy/paste of the options they have w/price:

Hey folks its Logan from Chase Bays just checking in, great to see we have the interest we needed.

We'll have the harness R&D complete and hopefully all of the connectors sourced and ordered by the first week in January. As you all know this motor is full of variants, and a lot of thought has been put into the design to keep options open without effecting production too much. There will be a few required changes (91+ CAS) so we can eliminate errors and confusion, but it benefits your build either way.

Here is what our pricing is looking like, this is subject to change:

CM1 Harness - $649.99
The CM1 harness features all new commercial grade, high heat, thin jacketing wire (rated from -49° to +257° F), individually striped for easy identification and all new sensor plug pins. It is covered in full flame retardant nylon sleeving (Operating Temperature Range -103° to 257°F; Melt temp 446°F), and adhesive lined heat shrink. All engine harnesses go directly to the ECU clips, and include all the needed wiring and plugs to make the harness plug and play to your vehicle. The harness is built with aesthetics and functionality in mind. Our harnesses have had a lot of R&D done for proper wiring technique, with all shielded wire used where needed. It features a stealthy look but is also easily accessed, keeping the motor easily worked on. This harness is great for someone looking to clean up their engine bay and replace the used and worn down stock harness.


CM2 Harness - $949.99
The CM2 harness features all the same great aspects and design of the CM1 harness but adds a Mil Spec quick disconnect firewall connector and Raychem connector boot. All CM2 harnesses are designed to mount to the OEM harness entry hole or former AC oval hole (if AC is eliminated) It also includes a complete new custom charge harness (for Alternator and Starter power wires). This harness is perfect for someone who wants the option of very easily removing/disconnecting the engine harness. Not to mention a very shiny firewall connector


CM Mil Spec Harness - $1349.99
The Mil Spec harness features; All new sensor plug pins, all new thin jacketing wire (rated from -49° to +257° F), Raychem DR-25 heat shrink (operating temp. -103° to +347° F), adhesive lined heat shrink junctions, Raychem break-outs/junctions where needed, Yellow sensor labeling, and Mil Spec quick disconnect connector w/ Raychem shrink boot. The harnesses go directly to the ECU clips, and include all the needed wiring and plugs to make the harness plug and play to your vehicle. The harness is built with aesthetics and functionality in mind.Our harnesses have had a lot of R&D done for proper wiring technique, with all shielded wire used where needed. It also includes a complete new custom charge harness (for Alternator and Starter power wires). The best harness money can buy. Built with high performance and full functionality in mind, the same materials and assembly has been used on the world’s fastest race cars and fighter jets across the world for years.
 
God i love your Turbo!!

See you next year!

Not to thread Jack Dan, but i remember Seeing Colt4G63's car at the shootout and have a few pics i took of it, here they are


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