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a dry kit on a 4g63t

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LethalEagle said:
You can use the dry system.... my Zex kit uses my adjustable fuel pressure regulator to draw more fuel through the injectors to make up the difference.
or just get wet
 
LethalEagle said:
You can use the dry system.... my Zex kit uses my adjustable fuel pressure regulator to draw more fuel through the injectors to make up the difference.

Don't you mean push more fuel by increasing the fuel pressure? It's kind of difficult to draw fuel through the injectors since the only thing after the injector is the combustion chamber! :p
 
nO REALLY GUYS...i ALSO HAVE A PROJECT THAT IS GONNA BE RUNNING THE zEX DRY KIT AND i ALSO NEED TO KNOW THIS. We have an AFPR and S-afc. So how is it done? Sorry I'm new to Nitrous and Turbo combinations. :dsm:
 
Using a fuel press. regualtor for a dry kit on a 4G63 is the hillbilly MacGyver way. I would not recommend it. When you're not spraying, you're running rich. Something to point out, I have yet to see a manufacturer make a dry kit for the 4G63. There is a reason for this. Only wet kits are made for out motors. :dsm:
 
The zex dry kit doesn't make the engine run rich when the nitrous isn't activated. Only when the nitrous is activated does the ZEX NMU richen up the fuel mixture. My brother has the Zex dry kit on his 92 talon and it has no problems at all. The zex kit also varies the fuel enrichment based upon the N20 bottle pressure so there is no chacne of running rich or lean due to an increase or decrease of bottle pressure. Zex does list a kit for the dsm here's the link. However that being said, a wet kit is safer than a dry kit and more power can be obtained using a wet kit. Go with the kit that suits your needs and your budget. If you start with a dry kit it can be converted to wet for a little more $$$.
http://www.powerandperformancenews....itsubishi-dKit&Category_Code=NX&Store_Code=ZX
 
ACKERSON said:
The zex dry kit doesn't make the engine run rich when the nitrous isn't activated. Only when the nitrous is activated does the ZEX NMU richen up the fuel mixture.

I didnt mean that the actual kit makes the car rich. I said, if you turn your fuel pressure up with a fuel pressure regulator to compinsate ofr the occasional nitrous, then you will be rich unless spraying. Many dry kits tap into the injectors and make them pulse more/faster to get the added fuel. That is the safe and correct way, not cranking up the fuel pressure.

ACKERSON said:

Dude, that site is a little messed up. For the dry kits, why would they only offer one for the 1G and not the 2G. Same drivetrain. And for the wet kits, they have both 1G and 2G. I am a dealer for ZEX, NX, and NOS and I have the kits on the shelf. I also have the catalogs here in front of me. None of the three have part #'s for dry kits for the 4G63. Zex offers a dry kit for the Mitsu 4cyl and a wet and dry kit for the mitsu 6cyl. I copied the page here at work and I will post it when I get home for proof. Believe what you want to believe, but if dry kits were safe on our cars, then they would all make them for our cars. :dsm:

92awd6bolt - Do it right the first time. If you dont have the $, then save. Just make sure you get a wet kit, even if I have to give you a deal on one. :p :thumb:
 
a dry kit is going to rely on the computer, mas, fpr to name a few. these are parts that can break or get crazy readings from time to time.

on a wet kit you pick the jet sizes that you need or someone says you need and as long as your fuel pump can keep up nothing will ever change.

to me wet is a better way to go I feel I have more control over a wet kit and that is what I have always run and will have on the new motor.

my .02 worth
 
99gst_racer said:
I didnt mean that the actual kit makes the car rich. I said, if you turn your fuel pressure up with a fuel pressure regulator to compinsate ofr the occasional nitrous, then you will be rich unless spraying. Many dry kits tap into the injectors and make them pulse more/faster to get the added fuel. That is the safe and correct way, not cranking up the fuel pressure.

the dry kits get more fuel through vaccuum lines and bumping up the fuel pressure while spraying. it wont make your car rich all the time.
 
GSGoinFast said:
the dry kits get more fuel through vaccuum lines and bumping up the fuel pressure while spraying. it wont make your car rich all the time.

In post #2, I thought LethalEagle was talking about using an adjustable regulator and bumping it up to always run rich. What you just said makes much more sense. However, I have yet to find a manufacturer that designs, advertises, and sells a dry kit for the 4G63. I've only seen them for the 420a and the 3G Eclipses.....

PS. - Notice I said manufacturer, and not joes nawwz.com because a manufacturers listing are more accurate that a middle man that is trying to sell you anythng he can.
 
99gst_racer said:
Using a fuel press. regualtor for a dry kit on a 4G63 is the hillbilly MacGyver way. I would not recommend it. When you're not spraying, you're running rich. Something to point out, I have yet to see a manufacturer make a dry kit for the 4G63. There is a reason for this. Only wet kits are made for out motors. :dsm:

You're a dealer for Zex and don't know how their dry kit works.... Oh well, it's a free country.
 
LethalEagle said:
You're a dealer for Zex and don't know how their dry kit works.... Oh well, it's a free country.

Yes, I deal them. However I have never personally sold them and we dont even stock them. We mostly stock/sell NX and NOS. And I mostly sell wet kits. I've installed dry kits before and they tapped into the injectors instead of using vacuum. So, you answer your question, you're right, I dont know a whole lot about them simply because I have never toyed with one or had one on the shelf. All I do know if what the literature says in front of me...... I love this country! :p :thumb:
 
Believe it or not some stupid ass's just bump up fuel pressure 20psi ALL THE TIME and spray nitrous DRY with no line attached to the FPR. It's pretty stupid, however many honda guys run that way beacuse they didn't read the instructions. They also think more fuel makes your car faster regardless of the air fuel ratio.

A wet kit gives you the biggest adjustability for a turbo charged car and here is why. Your car bumps up fuel pressure 1psi with boost. Ever psi of boost you make your fuel pressure goes up 1 psi. So if your base fuel is set at 42psi and you run 20psi of boost your fuel pressure at WOT at 20psi will be 62psi (42 + 20 = 62). A dry kit also bumps up fuel pressure. A 50hp shot dry will also need to ad about 20-30psi of fuel pressure. SO your 62 is now 82-92psi.

First off thats a lot of pressure on injectors and many injectors (namly rochester injectors) like those sold at Fuel Injector Clinic etc etc will not operate over 70-75psi and just lock up.

Second, the flow rate of a fuel pump drops off dramatically as pressure increases. A walbro 255lph High Pressure pump flows like this:

0psi it flows 85gal/hour (or 255lph or thereabouts)
40psi it flows 70gal/hour
60psi it flows 61gal/hour
80psi it flows 51gal/hour
90psi it flows 43gal/hour

As you can see your high flow pump, doesn't flow so high at 90psi which is where your fuel pressure will be at with a dry kit on a turbo car.

Another problem is that you run out of room on a dry kit because you can only achieve pressure upto about 90psi safely after that it's injector lock up time. So you cant spray 100hp shot dry on a car because you would need 40-50psi of extra fuel. Your fuel pump is not going to do 120psi. Then you get into screwing around with the SAFC to make up the extra fuel etc etc.. Your just asking for problems.

On a small shot the dry kit will work, but your really getting up there in pressure which runs the pumps flow pretty short. A wet kit runs at your 60psi of fuel pressure where your fuel pump is designed to pump lots of fuel so you have no worries about running out of fuel etc..

If you lock up an injector while spraying a dry kit on a turbo car your gonna hole a piston or melt valves or something, you simply can not hit fuel cut on this setup. I know for a fact that rochester injectors lock up past 75psi.
 
the zex kits plumb into your vacume line on your fuel pressure regulator, and another vacume line (any other vacume line will do) then you have 4 wires 1 is a 12v source one is ground one goes inside the cab for the activation switch and the other taps into the throttle position censor, ive installe quite a few zex kits and NOS brand dry kits, with the right supporting mods a dry kit will be just fine for most potential nitrous users, but i will agree a wet kit is more safe to a point, but alot harder to hook up .
 
1fstSS said:
the zex kits plumb into your vacume line on your fuel pressure regulator, and another vacume line (any other vacume line will do) then you have 4 wires 1 is a 12v source one is ground one goes inside the cab for the activation switch and the other taps into the throttle position censor, ive installe quite a few zex kits and NOS brand dry kits, with the right supporting mods a dry kit will be just fine for most potential nitrous users, but i will agree a wet kit is more safe to a point, but alot harder to hook up .

The only hook up difference between wet and dry is putting a T in your fuel line only. Otherwise there is almost no difference at all. Wet kits in my opinion are easier to hook up because you don't need to mess around with the vaccum line on the FPR. Putting a T into the feel line after fuel filter is a snap, then again putting a T into the fuel pressure reg is a snap too. I would still rather install a wet kit than dry.
 
DSMJim said:
The only hook up difference between wet and dry is putting a T in your fuel line only. Otherwise there is almost no difference at all. Wet kits in my opinion are easier to hook up because you don't need to mess around with the vaccum line on the FPR. Putting a T into the feel line after fuel filter is a snap, then again putting a T into the fuel pressure reg is a snap too. I would still rather install a wet kit than dry.

or just screwing the line onto the end of the fuel rail is a real breeze. :thumb:
 
On this same subject, are there any nozzles made especially for dry setups? I'd prefer a brand like NOS or NX. I'd likely build my own dry direct-port kit controlled by the AEM EMS.

Thanks,
Jay
 
poorboyj said:
On this same subject, are there any nozzles made especially for dry setups? I'd prefer a brand like NOS or NX. I'd likely build my own dry direct-port kit controlled by the AEM EMS.

Thanks,
Jay

Nobody makes any different type of dry nossle because they simply are old outdated technology that nobody cares about anymore. Thats why ZEX sells more wet kits, NOS's dry kits are not selling and NX has never even thought about a dry kit.

Honestly if your running 11.8 you need a single nossle wet kit and spray a 100hp shot to gain 150hp that will be enough. You don't need direct port on a turbo car unless your getting into a huge shot. Single nossle is good enough to a 250hp shot. After 200ish though I would go direct port myself.

Direct port dry (which doesn't even exist) is no different than direct port with one nossle, they both are a waste of time.
 
Thanks for the resonse. What makes the direct port appealing to me is the assurance of even distribution and the need for less equipment, since the AEM will control fuel.

Jay
 
I have one of these dry kits also.. that bumps up fuel pressure when used.. Where are you guys thinking of putting the dry nozzle? Before or after the maf, Right before the TB? My kit is made by NOS it says it pumps fuel pressure from 40 ish upto 60 ish.. But if Im already running 60 when boosting will it bump it to 80?
 
90TurboPOS said:
I have one of these dry kits also.. that bumps up fuel pressure when used.. Where are you guys thinking of putting the dry nozzle? Before or after the maf, Right before the TB? My kit is made by NOS it says it pumps fuel pressure from 40 ish upto 60 ish.. But if Im already running 60 when boosting will it bump it to 80?
Sell it to a Honda owner and invest in a wet kit. Then you wont have to worry about these problems/questions. :thumb:
 
i have a dry kit already, it is the zex kit, ive had it for a while now, but is it possible for me to add a fuel cylinoid and a wet nozle? and if its possible which fuel cylinoid?? id only like to spray a 50 shot so which pills do i need?? thanks!!
 
1fstSS said:
i have a dry kit already, it is the zex kit, ive had it for a while now, but is it possible for me to add a fuel cylinoid and a wet nozle? and if its possible which fuel cylinoid?? id only like to spray a 50 shot so which pills do i need?? thanks!!
NOS just came out with a kit to convert dry kits to wet kits. It is part # 0031. I'm almost sure it would be possible to use the NOS conversion on a ZEX dry kit..... Anyone else think that would work??
 
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