98 N/T TPS help

[halfevil333]

I have a 98 eclipse n/t, freshly rebuilt engine. the tps went out in it, and I just replaced it. the car idles badly, stutters under load, and smells very rich. actron scanner shows TPS position is around 14% fully closed, but only goes up to around 70%. I believe the voltage outputs for these readings were around .75v & 3.91v. It appears that someone drilled and helicoiled the mounting holes for m6 bolts and pushed out the metal sleeves in the TPS mounting ears. I replaced the bolts with m5 (they have just enough hold on the helicoil to tighten down), inspected the harness, and I cant figure it out. Any help here would be greatly appreciated

 

[Soccerguy136]

As long as the bolts fit in the tps it shouldn't matter what size they are.

Those tps readings don't sound too bad. The reading at idle is a little out of spec though.

Should be around .4v at idle and around 3.8v at WOT.

If the car is having problems under load, it doesn't sound like the tps is your problem.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/338804-my-tps-broken-wrongly-adjusted-wrong-my-car.html

Are you sure you got the right tps?

Update: Here is another link for you to adjust the tps

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/54439-idle-control-theory-operation.html

 

[halfevil333]

Update: I replaced the tps with a new one, same results. I unbolted it and discovered I could twist it in its mounting place, while checking the ohms, and I got it tightened down to a place where I get ~.4v fully closed and ~3.9 fully open. Code scanner still shows only about 70% open at 3.9v. Shouldnt tge percentage reading be higher? Anyway, I also checked my iac, although I had replaced it before. Ohms across the terminals read fine. The pintle had a tiny wear mark on it, so I went ahead and replaced it. Problem got a little bit better, but not much. It doesnt stall like it was, but the idle is still rough. Replaced the coolant temp sensor just now, and no luck there either. I went through the engine harness wire by wire yesterday to make sure none were broken. There arent any vac leaks that I can tell. Any more ideas would be greatly appreciated as I currently have no more .

 

[halfevil333]

good afternoon bump everyone

 

[95TalonOwner]

good afternoon bump everyone

Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer and see what happens.

 

[halfevil333]

I've tried disconnecting the battery, with no change. When I first start it, it sounds great. idles wonderfully up until it gets to around 170 degrees, and then no amount of blood, sweat or tears can make it run right . I've tried swapping in a new TPS, and coolant temp sensor. It isn't throwing any codes or anything to shed light on what this things problem is. I actually decided to go ahead and do the wire tuck and ECU/fusebox relocate that I've been wanting to do. So until I get done with that, this idle issue is going to sit on the back burner for a little bit. My question to everyone is: What would change or go wrong to make it run badly ONLY as soon as it gets near operating temp? Ponder and get back with me, thanks.