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96 talon leaning out between 5k -6k

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floridatalon

Probationary Member
7
0
Mar 5, 2014
tampa, Florida
I just got a 96 talon non turbo front wheel drive 5 speed..the 420a motor in the car has a msd coil and wires,cold air intake and headers to cat to stock muffler.i got the car put a battery in and drove around.it had a half of tank of old gas in it so I put some octane booster in and drove around until it was gone.while driving the car drove alright until it hit 5k rpms it starts to bogg and sounds like its cutting out at full throttle only between 5k and 6k rpms. I can ease it through till 6k rpms then it takes off at full power.now after the old gas was gone I put gas in and changed the spark plugs because they were the ngk iriduim plugs and I think they suck.I put regular ngk plugs in.i went and bought a fuel filter today to change out and see if it helps.also another thing is while coming to a stop the car is idling at 1500rpms or so then drops a couple seconds later after being stopped to 900rpms. I hope the fuel filter is the solution to both issues but that never seems to be the case.if any one has had the similar problem on the 420a motor please chime in.
 
Just give it a general tune up. Check the wires, do the fuel filter as planned, do the air filter, O2 sensor, adjust the tps, etc.

The slightly higher idle when coming to a stop is not really an issue.
 
Check fuel pump and also try to put it on waste gate pressure just to see if it can complete a pull with lower boost.
 
Just give it a general tune up. Check the wires, do the fuel filter as planned, do the air filter, O2 sensor, adjust the tps, etc.

The slightly higher idle when coming to a stop is not really an issue.

It was raining pretty bad today so I didn't get much done but i put on a new air filter I still need to change the oil and fuel filter if it is not raining tomorrow then go from there.
 
Check fuel pump and also try to put it on waste gate pressure just to see if it can complete a pull with lower boost.

He is N/T dude...his first sentence even said non turbo...

It was raining pretty bad today so I didn't get much done but i put on a new air filter I still need to change the oil and fuel filter if it is not raining tomorrow then go from there.

Keep us posted. It will probably also run loads better when you get rid of that old gas. While octane booster helps, it can't completely revive older fuel that has water and other contamination. I suggest just running it out without revving too high, and then try again after you put some new gas in.
 
He is N/T dude...his fa lot smoother sentence even said non turbo...



Keep us posted. It will probably also run loads better when you get rid of that old gas. While octane booster helps, it can't completely revive older fuel that has water and other contamination. I suggest just running it out without revving too high, and then try again after you put some new gas in.

Update I changed the fuel filter today.the car runs alot smoother but still cuts out around 5100 rpms.its almost empty I have a little less than 1/8 of a tank.another ussue is coming to a stop after first start up and first cold starts it dies but starts again no problem and is fine.I think the stalling is due to a oil change needed as well the oil isn't black but its dirty and was sitting awhile so i knon it needs it.

When the car is in neutral it revs past 5k no problem its only while driving that its bogging down and and cutting out at wide open throttle from 5100- 6100 rpms at a 1/4 throttle it pulls through that range no problem.
 
The stalling is unlikely due to old oil. That will rarely cause any noticeable problems short term(it will cause lots of problems later though). Exactly how old is it?

There are a few things that could cause that stalling. One could be the bad gas so you could just wait until you get some new stuff in there or test this other stuff anyway.

It could be the tps. You will need a multimeter. Testing procedure for 420a is: Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3, should be 3.5-6.5 kohms. Then measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3 while moving the throttle slowly, the resistance should change smoothly.

It could also be the ISC. 420a ISC have 4 pins. Again, you will need a multimeter. Testing procedure for 420a: Measure resistance on the pins of the connector 1 and 4, should be between 38-52 ohms at room temp (68 degrees F).

It could also be the O2 sensor, but it would likely throw a code. The check engine light isn't on is it? I should have asked that earlier...
 
The stalling is unlikely due to old oil. That will rarely cause any noticeable problems short term(it will cause lots of problems later though). Exactly how old is it?

There are a few things that could cause that stalling. One could be the bad gas so you could just wait until you get some new stuff in there or test this other stuff anyway.

It could be the tps. You will need a multimeter. Testing procedure for 420a is: Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3, should be 3.5-6.5 kohms. Then measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3 while moving the throttle slowly, the resistance should change smoothly.

It could also be the ISC. 420a ISC have 4 pins. Again, you will need a multimeter. Testing procedure for 420a: Measure resistance on the pins of the connector 1 and 4, should be between 38-52 ohms at room temp (68 degrees F).

It could also be the O2 sensor, but it would likely throw a code. The check engine light isn't on is it? I should have asked that earlier...

I dont know how old the oil is I just bought the car a week ago and im just going through the motion with it.there is no check engine light on.iv got a mutilated meter so ill check that out today.now for the gas I have ran it down below the e line a couple times but never fully ran it till it shut off from running out so ill do that today as well and see where it gets me.while driving down the road you can sometimes smell a bad gas kinda smell so I think I just keep mixing it up the tank.
 
I have the same problem with my 98 eclipse that I just bought and it cuts out like it over rev at 4000 rpms and when I ease into the car it will open up fine. I have no idea what it could be but my car is turbo ( greddy) ( s-afc II controller) could be a boost leak or something. I also need help with this same problem. I'm new to this and bought the car with everything installed in maryland a week ago. Its not running like it has bad gas or bad spark plugs either.
 
222deuce222: Please make your own thread about your problem. You have a turbo car and it's very different than this one. That said, I would start with a boost leak test. Also, just fyi, an SAFC is a terrible tuning device for these cars. Find something better as fast as you can.

To the OP, you shouldn't have to run it down completely, nor is it very good for a car to do that. If you absolutely want it out, then drain the tank into an oil jug or something and dispose of it properly.

Try filling up with some premium (91 or 93) next time and that should help. If you have filled up a bunch of times since I doubt that is the problem then. You also might try running some fuel injector cleaner and/or HEET impurity remover (not at the same time though).
 
Could it be a bad catalytic converter? With the extra air its trying to flow from the aftermarket header to the stock cat and muffler.maybe the cat is getting clogged up at higher rpms creating to much back pressure?or even the muffler might be bad? Its a bit louder than it should be.
 
I wouldn't rule it out, but normally, when a cat is clogged, you know. It makes weird noises and you can smell it. Plus it usually causes the check engine light to come on.

You can certainly try pulling it off and looking, but it sucks LOL.

Also, when you put it the new plugs, make sure you gapped them to .44-.48
 
I wouldn't rule it out, but normally, when a cat is clogged, you know. It makes weird noises and you can smell it. Plus it usually causes the check engine light to come on.

You can certainly try pulling it off and looking, but it sucks LOL.

Also, when you put it the new plugs, make sure you gapped them to .44-.48

I didn't gap the plugs befor installing.ill pull them out some time this week and gap to the correct specifications.I ran into this issue today where ill turn the key it fires right up and shuts off.it did that over and over now one thing thats weird about it is if I hit the gas paddle a little bit and rev it up a tad bit it stays running no problem.
 
Your new problem sounds like the idle air controller......try taking it out and cleaning the tip and inside the housing to make sure its not getting stuck....the egr spits a lot of stuff back into your intake...could be gumming up the iac port in your throttle body
 
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Update still having theb issue breaking up at 5k rpms but no longer dying at start up. I was looking at the o2 sensor and it has been replaced now with that being said if they put in the wrong o2 sensor in causing the break up? Maybe it has the wrong wide band?

Update:I unplugged the o2 sensor on the header to try and make it through a code see if I could get some thing different to happen.it did put thw check engine light on so im thinking they took the bulb out or some thing on the dash cause no light came on and I am pretty sure with that being unplugged it should turn the light on.so obd testing tomorrow.although no lights came on the has a better response 1st 2nd 3rd gear. Q. What will happen if you run an automatic ecu on a 5 speed car?
 
Shouldnt be an issue with an automatic ecu....people do 5 speed swaps all the time...theres a safety switch wire that would need to be wired up on the automatics so it would start after the swap......
 
My car its kind of having the same issue (talon 96 esi) so i was thinking in a full tune up but olso do some upgrades to the fuel pump,spark plugs and injectors thinking going turbo after any ideas what can i use for this:D
 
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