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95 RS Stalling. HELP please.

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208DSM

10+ Year Contributor
48
0
Aug 9, 2011
Emmett, Idaho
:confused: Ok so last july i bought a 1995 eclipse rs. it had a ticking noise when i bought it. figured it was something little and easy so i paid $1000 for it. it ended up having a blow rod. so we bought a brand new motor from a engine company in Boise. the motor only has 3,000 miles on it and those are miles i put on it. when it runs it runs GREAT but after being driven for a little while it will stall out. doesnt smoke, overheat, or hesitate. just randomly stalls out and starts back up after about 30-45mins of waiting then runs good again. i replaced the coil pack, coil pack harness, fuel pump, fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor, cam sensor connector, upstream o2 sensor, and cleaned the A-32 connector. my computer is good. does anyone know what it could be?!:confused: PLEASE help. wayyyyy too much money invested into this ride but its so close to being brand new.
Also it has a megan racing header, the stalling didnt start till after i put the exhaust on. so is the header maybe heating something up and making it fail?? please just all opinions count. thank you very much.
 
the only vehicle i have any experience with a similar problem on is an RX-7, and seeing as that motor has absolutely nothing in common with the 420A, it probably wouldnt be much help, LOL.

what i can say is my motor was toast, it was good to drive for 2-3 hours, then shut off, and wouldnt restart for 30-45 minutes. it was in need of a rebuild to solve the problem.

for yours i would check for spark, fuel, and compression during the no start condition and work from there instead of slinging parts at it.
 
Did u check your crank sensor?

Please read before posting.


OP,

Could you give a bit more detail of the no-start condition? what sounds? what lights come on? With all the money you spent on it, a scangauge II worth $159 would've saved you the trouble by displaying all your parameters and can tell what's in spec.

It definitely is heat related, so make sure everything is clearanced from your header. I would go over the engine bay to make sure everything looks the way it should be. Try disconnecting the coolant sensor and see if it starts up during the "no-start" condition. good luck!
 
Please read before posting.


OP,

Could you give a bit more detail of the no-start condition? what sounds? what lights come on? With all the money you spent on it, a scangauge II worth $159 would've saved you the trouble by displaying all your parameters and can tell what's in spec.

It definitely is heat related, so make sure everything is clearanced from your header. I would go over the engine bay to make sure everything looks the way it should be. Try disconnecting the coolant sensor and see if it starts up during the "no-start" condition. good luck!



it is not positively heat related. it could be electrical, fuel delivery, or any of a dozen different things not even remotely heat related.

the OP needs to check for fuel, spark, and compression during the no start and from there it can be narrowed down.
 
in auto i hooked it up to the machine and i was getting good readings for fuel, cam and crank sensor but my IAC was a few volts low. i took it off and cleaned it up a and also cleaned the inside of my throttle body, it was pretty gunked up and filthy. is it possible for my IAC to cause my car to stall?
 
in auto i hooked it up to the machine and i was getting good readings for fuel, cam and crank sensor but my IAC was a few volts low. i took it off and cleaned it up a and also cleaned the inside of my throttle body, it was pretty gunked up and filthy. is it possible for my IAC to cause my car to stall?

The IAC can cause that, and because of the placement, it does get really dirty, its a relatively cheap and easy replacement, if cleaning doesn't it doesn't fix it, But with a DSM, you never know. Does it usually stall when you push the clutch in? Or is it a completely random thing?
 
The IAC can cause that, and because of the placement, it does get really dirty, its a relatively cheap and easy replacement, if cleaning doesn't it doesn't fix it, But with a DSM, you never know. Does it usually stall when you push the clutch in? Or is it a completely random thing?

completely random. it used to only do it like going through town at low speeds, but did it on the highway a few times lately. i ordered a new IAC and got it yesterday and imma throw it in tomorrow and see if that helps. it runs a lot better since i cleaned the throttle body and the old IAC, it at least starts back up and idles for like 30secs after dying now. so im really hoping the new IAC fixes it, i heard their cheap parts and are better to be replaced than just cleaned.
 
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