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95 GSt injectors arent firing.

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kidwiththelaser

15+ Year Contributor
206
4
Jun 6, 2005
minneapolis, Minnesota
Ive got a 95 eclipse gst and it wont start. Its getting spark but it no fuel is getting into the combustion chamber. I checked to see if fuel is getting into the fuel rail and there is plenty!

I just did a headgasket and a timing belt.

I also found a wire connector that isnt hooked up. The connector im talking about is right on the end of the intake cam where the CAS normally is on 1gs and 97+ DSMs. I would get a pic but my dad has the camera.


Or why my injectors arent firing?

Thanks!!

-Charlie
 
kidwiththelaser said:
Ive got a 95 eclipse gst and it wont start. Its getting spark but it no fuel is getting into the combustion chamber. I checked to see if fuel is getting into the fuel rail and there is plenty!

I just did a headgasket and a timing belt.

I also found a wire connector that isnt hooked up. The connector im talking about is right on the end of the intake cam where the CAS normally is on 1gs and 97+ DSMs. I would get a pic but my dad has the camera.

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*This isnt my motor* But thats the connector im talking about. Anyone know what thats for?

Or why my injectors arent firing?

Thanks!!

-Charlie
Did you do the timing belt? Well I guess it really don't matter who did it, but check your timing and make sure it right on the mark, even if it's off just by a hair will cause it not start. Good luck.
 

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streetlegends said:
Did you do the timing belt? Well I guess it really don't matter who did it, but check your timing and make sure it right on the mark, even if it's off just by a hair will cause it not start. Good luck.


Alrighty Ill double check all the timing marks.
 
luv2rallye said:
Pic is too far away to see. What color wires are on connector?
No injector firing could be bad cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, injector resistors, or ECU.


I forgot to mention it has a brand new Cam Angle sensor, I broke it when I was doing the headgasket/timing belt.

There are 2 wires, an all white one, and a black one with a thin white stripe.

Also it had a CEL and I checked it and it came up as Cam Angle sensor, (replaced) and o2 sensor which had an unconnected wire going to it. (fixed) And now it doesnt have a CEL anymore.
 
nope, knock sensor is fine. Oh well, i found the plug that it plugs into, and the wire on that was cut. And I know it ran fine with out it before, so I dont think its anything important. But can anyone think of why its not starting?

Heres the story on what hapened.

I got the car knowing it leaked alot of coolant into the exhaust so I assumed it was either the turbo seals or a HG. I started with the easy one and replaced the tired t25 with a 14b with no shaft play. And it still leaked, so I decided to do the HG, and while I was at it I figured why not do the t-belt too. I did that and put it all together, and it started up fine, but wouldnt run right. Turns out that I broke the Cam angle sensor when I was doing the t-belt, so I replaced that and put the t-belt back on, and now it wont start. So I pulled out a spark plug, and but it on the valve cover and cranked the ar over and it was sparking. And then I checked to see if it was getting fuel to the fuel rail which it was also. So all I can think of is that either the ignition timing is WAAY off or that the injectors arent firing at all. Im inclining towards the latter. Any ideas???

Any help would be very much appreciated! Im trying to figure out anything that could be wrong with it, because I just broke my collar bone and I cant work on it for a few weeks. So I want to figure out as much as possible and then just get it all done when IM up and running again. LOL
 
Since it won't run after you replaced the CAS it would seem that is where to look (installed wrong, broken wire, bad plug, etc). The injectors need the CAS, MFI relay, and ECU all working properly to fire. Do you have +12 volts on the injectors? If not, "Engine" fuse or MPI relay.
 
luv2rallye said:
Since it won't run after you replaced the CAS it would seem that is where to look (installed wrong, broken wire, bad plug, etc). The injectors need the CAS, MFI relay, and ECU all working properly to fire. Do you have +12 volts on the injectors? If not, "Engine" fuse or MPI relay.


Ill try to look it over!

Thanks alot!!:thumb:
 
+5V and running, or not running but with ignition on? On which wire color(s)? All injectors? Not running but with ignition on should be +12V or more. If not, check injector resistors (should be 5.5-6.5 ohms each disconnected).
 
+5V when my friend was cranking.

I also checked to see how much power the CAS was getting and it was also getting +12V when it was off with the key to the on position.

When the car wasnt cranking the injectors were getting +12V.
 
Also when I pulled the spark plug out a second time, to test the ignition I could smell gas.

Now this leads me to believe that im getting spark and fuel and I know the compression is good. So all I can think of is that the timing is WAY off. I know the CAS isnt adjustable like the 1gs, but is there any special way to install the CAS in the 2g??

Im going to take the intake cam gear back off tomorrow, and see what I can see. :)
 
kidwiththelaser said:
Also when I pulled the spark plug out a second time, to test the ignition I could smell gas.

I know the compression is good.


How do you know the compression is good? Did you phisically do a compression test or are you just assuming it is good? Do a compression test if you havent yet just to verify it is good.
 
92awddsm said:
How do you know the compression is good? Did you phisically do a compression test or are you just assuming it is good? Do a compression test if you havent yet just to verify it is good.
I did a compression test. Ill do another one. :)
 
kidwiththelaser said:
+5V when my friend was cranking.

I also checked to see how much power the CAS was getting and it was also getting +12V when it was off with the key to the on position.

When the car wasnt cranking the injectors were getting +12V.
The injector ON pulse (the time it's at 0V - ie. from 12V to 0V to 12V) is so narrow that a voltmeter won't even detect it and will still read +12VDC or more on each side of the injector to ground (since it reads the average voltage value). Mine measures 14.2V while idling and 12.7V when not running but key "on" (so MPI relay is activated). You're +5V reading here tells me something is very wrong. Did you measure from each side to ground? If not do so. If you're just measuring across the injector you might get 5V as there is a 70V spike when the injector turns off so the average may be 5V - I haven't measured it. This line, on the other side (power side) of the injector resistors, goes to almost every sensor and solenoid on the engine as well as to POWER THE ECU (pins 12 & 25) and it all comes from the MPI relay. Only 5V on the ECU power line would make nothing work. Measure the voltage on these ECU pins. If only +5V you have a major problem - probably a major current draw or partial short which is bringing the voltage down and which you are going to have to find.

If all this is ok, are you sure you have the CAS installed and lined up correctly? If not lined up correctly you may get spark but at the wrong time. See posts 7 & 9 of:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1224120#post1224120.
 
Well I re-did the compression test, and got 100-75-50, and didnt bother with the last hole.

So I think that the valve tming is off. Im going to check that today with my buddy, and se what we can find.
 
iam having this same problem i did the head gasket and the timing belt and theres no starting of the car.. the cas was a b@#$% to put in and work around the intake cam. well if you come up with anything let me know cause it looks as though were in the same boat man.
 
Gary 420A RS said:
iam having this same problem i did the head gasket and the timing belt and theres no starting of the car.. the cas was a b@#$% to put in and work around the intake cam. well if you come up with anything let me know cause it looks as though were in the same boat man.


Did you check your compression at all?

I think my valve timing is off, or my head is warped.
 
noo the compression tester they had there at the shop didnt work.. so ill have to check it. whats it suppost to be all through out? ill have to check the timing again.. later.
 
Service limit for the compression is 130psi.

Your timing is off, and fortunately for you, you have SOME compression... however, may have still bent the valves just enough to where they still seat, but do not seal. Its obviously not enough compression to fire, so.... bad news may be heading your way.
 
JLangevin said:
Service limit for the compression is 130psi.

Your timing is off, and fortunately for you, you have SOME compression... however, may have still bent the valves just enough to where they still seat, but do not seal. Its obviously not enough compression to fire, so.... bad news may be heading your way.


So what would you suggest I do?

Pull the head and rebuild it?
 
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