91 Eclipse GS Help me out please!

[Brandon1102]

I'm new to this site but I have to start off by saying that it has been a godsend, it has answered so many questions for me and continues to teach me something new about my car every day.

That being said I'm new to DSM and turbo charged stuff in general. About a week ago I bought a 1991 Eclipse GS with a rebuilt motor that has about 50k on it. It has a few mods from the previous owner; turbo headers, hks exhaust,lightweight crank pulley,blitz bov, BIG 16G turbo set at about 11 psi witch I'm assuming is pretty much the default factory boost (the guy that I bought it from said it was bored .010 over but I was not aware that you could do that with a turbo, please correct me if I'm wrong) but I was also told by a friend of mine that works at Firestone that it looked like an EVO turbo. The part number stamped on the side of it is TD05H but when I Google that part number it comes up with mixed results, any clarification on that would be awesome.

The previous owner had the car set to run slightly rich so it does not lean out at higher RPM's and probably in general, because he did not upgrade the injectors / fuel pump / MAF or spring the extra dough for a AFC or DSMlink. It is not to god awful it will choke out sometimes if you suddenly rev the engine / when you fully engage the clutch mostly when it's cold, after it warms up for 10 minutes or so it stops choking out pretty much all together. It also blows a little bit of white smoke (a very little bit like 1 puff) when you first take off after starting it / sitting at idle for 5 mins. or so, witch I'm guessing is because it is running a little rich as there are no sign's of a blown head gasket i.e. coolant in the oil and or oil in the coolant and it does not over heat or leak any oil at all. It does not constantly blow white smoke or any smoke for that matter out of the tail pipe.

This car is my daily driver and I need it to stay running, safely, it feels fine at the moment it has plenty of power no knocks, and does not break up or anything but I am very aware that it needs at least bigger injectors, a 255 LPH fuel pump, AFC or DSMlink, 2g MAF mod, and possibly a FPR.

So with all that out of the way here is my main question. I'm wondering if I put a set of 550cc injectors, a Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump, and a 2g MAF if that will stop it from choking out so badly if not completely for the time being and be safe to run until I can figure out if the FPR will be necessary and save up for the DSMlink or an AFC. Also if that setup would work without the AFC what do you guys think the highest safe boost would be with that setup. If I'm not able to run it safely with all of that stuff without the AFC what's my best option, take the turbo off until I get all of the parts? I just really don't want to mess this motor up because it still has relatively low miles on it. Someone help me out please! I don't know where to start!

 

[clipto]

First off everyone should read this so I hope it helps http://www.dsmtuners.com/tech.html.To find out if the turbo is genuine http://www.ehow.com/how_7957200_identify-mhi-16g-turbo.html. If it was a non turbo car you won't see past 10 psi with those internals or just the motor itself. Al tho the non turbo blocks are good to use for turbo build as they don't have oil squirters. Safc or 550cc with the 2g maf is not the funnest way to go. It is still not 100% going to run right. Might as well save up and grab all the good parts once and save money.You will only get you so far if you dont get good stuff like ecmlink then you can go to 1000cc injectors if you want and a decent tune and maintenance will get you going. your looking at a bore of .20 or .40 on the pistons .10 is fail if he did that . Hope that's a starting help. Best thing alot of people can do is look at other members profile and see there horsepower and see there mods there using. You will see it really won't take alot to make decent power, just do it the right way first no jimmy riggin. Enjoy!

 

[Black-Out]

As for the smoke 5 minutes after a cold start all cars do that, what you're seeing shouldn't actually be smoke it should be water vapor, if the air is cooler than the exhaust gas then you will see what appears to be white "smoke". Especially if it's cool before you start up the car before you leave........The only exception to this would be the very beginnings of a turbo failure which may appear white at first but will eventually turn blue when it becomes more common placed...

Hope that will quash any concerns about the smoke question.....

Will-

 

[Brandon1102]

So you think I will be able to get it to stop leaning out in high rpms without having to run it rich witch is choking it out if I get some better injectors and ecmlink? I figured that about the turbo. I have done a bit of maintenance already, got a four wheel alignment, new front tires, I flushed the radiator and changed the oil / oil filter. Got some NGK plugs "BPR7ES" because I hear they run a bit better than the 6's have not put them in yet, just waiting on my new ignition wires, fuel filter & K&N replacement air filter to come in at Advanced should all be there tomorrow, after that I'm good on maintenance and ready to start getting what i need to make it run rite.

As you can see if you look at the picture of my engine bay, a piece of the old 90 Degree or I think it was a 90 not sure, Broke off and he has it jury rigged with a coupling and a piece of PVC. Do you know of any place online that sells the replacement hoses, couplings and such as a set for the big 16g? or am I looking at buying that all individually? Also do you think I would be able to get it to run rite and safely for the time being with just some 550cc injectors and a 2g MAF modded on? I have read a few older topics talking about it working with a 1G without having to replace anything else. Do you know of anyone that has tried this with a turbo? I'm not really worried about having the fastest DCM I can at the moment, so I don't mind running at 10 psi especially if the pistons can't handle it rite now. Honestly I would just be super happy to get it running back like it would have as a stock turbo, witch it pretty much does at the moment minus the choking out, at least until I can afford to get all the stuff that I mentioned in my first post and new pistons thank you for bringing that to my attention by the way, So if the motor was originally a turbo charged motor do you think it would be able to handel more than 10 psi?

Sorry posted that last reply before hitting refresh. Thank you guys for the information, super helpful as always. If there is anything else you all can think of I'm all ears. I think the smoke might be the beginning of turbo failure after hearing what Will was saying and considering it does it after it's been idling, I'm almost sure it is. I'll probably just get a factory replacement 16g to tie me over for a while if I can find a decent deal on it, then start getting the other parts together after that. Think those turbo headers I have on it now will work with a small 16g or will I have to put the original factory turbo manifold back on? Also if this turbo happens to fail while it's still on the motor will it jack the motor up?

 

[Black-Out]

Having a way to tune it is key, you can add fuel where you need it and remove fuel where you don't this will also allow you to fine tune your ignition which will definitely help keep your engine alive and happy- you can make good power on N/A blocks but because the compression is higher and they aren't as stout it requires a good tuner to keep them alive at any boost pressure let alone anything over 10psi. That said your spark plug selection is a step in the right direction because the BPR7ES plugs are one step cooler than the BPR6ES plugs I assume you're running now. This will also help ward off detonation by removing the plug slightly from the combustion chamber reducing the possibility of auto ignition.

The original turbo 4g63's are really hard to blow up unless you blatently try to kill the thing off or you just have no idea what your doing. The turbo 4G can take a lot of boost especially in 6 bolt form because compression is a very low 7.8:1 as opposed to the 7 bolt 4G having 8.0:1 both units in turbo form will easily hold copious amounts of boost if the supporting mods and tunes are proper.....

Check the vendors for the parts you need more than likely you'll find what you need, or if you're on a budget check out the parts for sale section and see if you can find someone who has the parts you need second hand so you can save a dime-


Your manifold should work with a small 16G if it works with a large 16G......

Will-

 

[91tsi_awd]

Is your car a GS or a GSX? Your post says GS but your profile says GSX?

 

[Brandon1102]

It's a GS I just hit the wrong one in the drop down menu I suppose.

 

[snowborder714]

Please try again with a more descriptive thread title. A generic thread title like this does not help me when browsing new threads to see if I can offer help or when searching old threads for info to help myself or others.