7 bolt rebuild

[BlownAway]

Helpful tips on rebuilds and do's and don't. Like gaps between the connecting rods and crank shaft.

 

[grnchevyz]

Hey man, what I suggest is give SlowBoy Racing a call, they're always happy to help out a fellow tuner and those questions could be answered and more by them seeing as they build some pretty freakin wicked short and long blocks.

 

[BlownAway]

Thanks I didnt know that, I purchased the rebuild kit from them also.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

The first thing is to get the CD manual that's floating around on the web, and read the engine section a couple of times before you start. It will have all the important and correct information....ring gap locations, bearing clearances, torque specs and the like. DO NOT USE a Chilton's or Hynes....they suck.

Find a local, knowledgeable DSMer to supervise, especially if this is your first rebuild as the 4G63 is a bit different than the norm, especially in the timing belt area. You'll be surprised what a good meal and a few beers at the end of the day will buy you.

Don't go cheap on the parts. Not to say that the most expensive is the best, but certainly the cheap parts are just that.

Stick with OEM timing belt components and replace all of them....TB, BB (if you plan on keeping it), tensioner, water pump, idler pulley, 2 tensioner pulleys, 5 seals (2 cam seals, crank seal, oil pump seal, balance shaft seal). Check the pulley arm where the tensioner hits, over time the tensioner pin can wear a dimple in the arm...replace if needed.

A new crank pulley is probably in order if the engine is far enough along that you feel a need for a rebuild....and new oil pump components. Also freshen up the head, you shouldn't need anything fancy depending on your goals, just cleaned and resealed. And check the exhaust manifold, they have a tendency to crack.

Of course strip it down to the bare block and have it vatted, cleaned and machined at a reputable shop along with the head work.

Then replace all the "rubber goods". Hoses, belts, all the misc water jumper hoses, heater hoses. Rebuild the throttle body.

Probably a good time for a new clutch. And while the tranny is out, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have someone go through it to check for wear....synchros, gear sets, shift forks and rails just to know things are in working order. A LSD (or at least inserts) would be nice while it's apart. Check the clutch fork and pivot ball.

After you're done and have the engine back in....unplug the fuel and ignition and turn the car over for several short "bursts" (5 seconds or so) to ensure you have oil pressure. Then fire the "sucker" up.


After all that....DON'T FORGET TO DO A BOOST LEAK TEST.


That should give you a "half-ass" idea of what's involved, certainly not everything, but now you'll either be a little better informed for the task at hand....or walk away from it.

Good luck.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Oh yea...I forgot to mention to "bag-n-tag" your parts, fasteners, hose ends, etc. Take pictures along the way while removing items. Those photos will prove invaluable later on.