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7 bolt jdm issues

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talonguy85

Proven Member
65
1
Oct 27, 2012
vashon, Washington
After searching for an hour i still cannot find my answers. First off the new engine has a 2 wire alternator plug like the 1g (i think). But the difference is mine has a blue wire and a red wire wich is different from other threads I've read. So what 2 wires do i splice into from my original 4 wire plug. I gave my original alternator away so swapping is not an option as of now.

Second Ive traced every thing i can think of after installing the engine and I'm still not getting power to my starter. I ran a hot wire to the starter and it turned over just fine.

note: This engine was from a auto car from japan with the 13g and mine is a manual.

Oh and if anybody is gonna rip on me for being a "ricer/jdm/honda guy" LOL I really don't wanna hear it :thumb: Thanks!
 
Don't go hacking up your harness. Get one from the junkyard or buy one from the parts store & use your current one as a core.

So does it start or no??

RICER!!!! jk :p
 
HAHAHAHA funny guy. Honestly i just want to get the car on the road, eventually I will do the Saturn swap with the single wire so hacking my origanal plug doesn't matter but thanks for the advice.

No I haven't started it due to the alt. not being installed yet and no power to the starer wire.
 
Awesome sounds way easier than the Saturn swap. As of now i just want to use what i have to get it on the road. I really can't afford a new alternator as of right now or i just would of bought one and been done with it.

If anybody knows what 2 wires to splice into the red wire and blue wire on my jdm alternator that would be sweet!
 
The 2g has an alternator (alt) with 4 wires instead of the 1g's 2 wires. One of the extra wires (green wire - "FR signal") is an internal alt load sense line signal to the ECU which controls idle speed (IAC) when extra electrical loads are present on the alt. The other (white wire - "G signal") is a control signal from the ECU to the alt which forces the alt to output 12.5V maximum. The ECU sets this signal when it determines it needs maximum/more hp (eg. WOT) so the alt won't use hardly any hp thereby providing more to the drivetrain.

(Credit luv2rallye)

Which leaves the red & blue wires remaining.

As for starter problem, have you tested if you're getting power from the actual harness?
 
You could try to splice it togather. If you own a chiltons book there are some good diagrams that could be alot of help. As long as the wires you splice togather are of the same ampacity, and current is flowing through the correct wires you should be fine. Btw I just swapped an auto into manual thr 13g has excellent mid range power.
 
The 2g has an alternator (alt) with 4 wires instead of the 1g's 2 wires. One of the extra wires (green wire - "FR signal") is an internal alt load sense line signal to the ECU which controls idle speed (IAC) when extra electrical loads are present on the alt. The other (white wire - "G signal") is a control signal from the ECU to the alt which forces the alt to output 12.5V maximum. The ECU sets this signal when it determines it needs maximum/more hp (eg. WOT) so the alt won't use hardly any hp thereby providing more to the drivetrain.

Thanks man i have read this. I know the two outer wires on the original 4 wire plug aren't needed i just need to know out of the middle wires which to splice into the RED wire and BLUE wire on the pig tail on my Japanese ALT. ie: the black wire with the stripe goes to the xxxx ect.

Btw I just swapped an auto into manual thr 13g has excellent mid range power.

Good to know :thumb:

Which leaves the red & blue wires remaining.

The red and blue wires are off the pig tail on my alt. I'm trying to install not off the original plug.
 
Last edited:
For your starter problem Make sure this plug is connected 2g Engine Bay Electrical Connections
:banghead: thanks man that's what it was. Fired right up! now i just need to fix my throttle body issue. The plastic behind the return spring is cracked so it gets stuck at like 2k.
 
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