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7 bolt block questions

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staztrx250

10+ Year Contributor
182
1
Mar 29, 2010
Green Bay, Wisconsin
Alright I have a 95 7 bolt complete motor that is on its way out. I also have a 1g 7 blot motor but it's non turbo. What are the differences between the blocks. I.E. could i use the non turbo block with the rods and pistons out of my 95 block and top it with my 95 head?


I think i remember hearing it had something to do with the water jackets?
 
The issue with the "water jackets" I'd imagine refers to the coolant feed line to the turbocharger on a 2G engine. Whereas a 1G turbocharger is fed from the thermostat housing, this 2G turbocharger feed line sources its coolant from the engine block as seen in this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/385767-2g-block-coolant-line.html.
This really shouldn't concern you if you simply use the 1G feed in the 1G thermostat housing. Of course if you do that, you need to use the 1G water pipe (running to the water pump) and take into account some other things. It's all been covered here if you choose to go that route: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/331265-1g-head-2g-7-bolt-block.html.
On the other hand, I'm sure there are ways of getting around the issue while keeping the 2G thermostat housing. It becomes a simple matter of finding an appropriate coolant source to feed the turbocharger.

There is a difference in the transmission side of the block, as can be seen in this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/383946-my-first-dsm-motor.html#post152352853. Again, even though the top picture shows 6 bolts on the crankshaft, it is the same arrangement for 1G 7-bolt engines. You will be fine running without that "other" bolt.

The non-turbo block will not have oil squirters; it may or may not have a dedicated place to mount a knock sensor. But all 92-99 4G63 7-bolt engines used the same crankshaft so the pistons and rods out of your 2G will fit the 1G crankshaft and block without issue.

The front casings (oil pump) are different in that the 2G has the crank position (or angle) sensor down that way and the 1G casing does not. Though I cannot say for certain whether or not the 1G casing has provisions for the CPS, I do know the casings (since they are both 7-bolts) are interchangeable, so you could swap the 2G casing onto the 1G block and keep the CPS if necessary.

Hopefully that doesn't confuse you and gives you what you were looking for.
 
Last edited:
It's a debated issue. Majority believes that oil squirters are necessary for stock internals and not as necessary for forged internals. You can search for the discussions on this site and make your own determination.
 
well you can drill and tap the main oil galley where they would be. If you look close at the main oil galley you can see there are small casting pads there you can drill and tap them into the oil galley to place the squirters. and to make up for the lost oil pressure you can remove the balancer shafts and reverse the bearings to stop the oil flow. thats just my 2 cents
 
well you can drill and tap the main oil galley where they would be. If you look close at the main oil galley you can see there are small casting pads there you can drill and tap them into the oil galley to place the squirters. and to make up for the lost oil pressure you can remove the balancer shafts and reverse the bearings to stop the oil flow. thats just my 2 cents

say i wanted to go this route. Where would i get the actual "oil squirters"
 
i could get you some but you can look on ebay but dsm graveyard has them he even does the service for a small fee.
 
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