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4g63t

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NotCarlsson

Probationary Member
11
0
May 30, 2019
Stockholm, Alabama
I have the 4g63t eninge in my car from an EVO 3.
And I have a question, I've gotten a bigger intake for the eninge. But with the new intake I have no were too fit the secondary air supply. Do I need it?

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https://imgur.com/EsI1ihd
 
I think the OP is refering to the air supply used by the ALS system. I think being able use it at all would depend on the ECU that's in your car. Without the Mitsubishi specifically developed ECU found only on the factory race & rally cars you would not be able to have the ALS function. I believe they ECU's with the ALS code were only available on vehicles sold in Japan & Britain & would be hard to get. It would be very unlikely that you have one of the ALS ECU & removing it would probably be the best path forward. You would aslo need to have all the air lines/pipes, solenoid valve, & the correct wiring harness to hook everything up.
 
I think the OP is refering to the air supply used by the ALS system. I think being able use it at all would depend on the ECU that's in your car. Without the Mitsubishi specifically developed ECU found only on the factory race & rally cars you would not be able to have the ALS function. I believe they ECU's with the ALS code were only available on vehicles sold in Japan & Britain & would be hard to get. It would be very unlikely that you have one of the ALS ECU & removing it would probably be the best path forward. You would aslo need to have all the air lines/pipes, solenoid valve, & the correct wiring harness to hook everything up.


i'm talking about this thing:

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That 12313 VALVE,SECONDARY AIR REED mounts on the intake manifold in the same location as the US market has the EGR. This is all part of the Mitsu factory race & rally cars and is part of the ALS system. If you search for EVOIII intake & EGR you will find more discussion from US owner trying to figure out how to do the EGR the E3 intakes. They were confused because only the US emission require the EGR. Take all off & use the FIAV from a US throttle body or block off the FIAV with a blosk-off plate.
 
Last edited:
You are confused. The attached excerpt from the FSM should help you get up to speed.
 

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  • 1995-1999 Eclipse-Service Manual-throttle body.pdf
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That 12313 VALVE,SECONDARY AIR REED mounts on the intake manifold in the same location as the US market has the EGR. This is all part of the Mitsu factory race & rally cars and is part of the ALS system. If you search for EVOIII intake & EGR you will find more discussion from US owner trying to figure out how to do the EGR the E3 intakes. They were confused because only the US emission require the EGR. Take all off & use the FIAS from a US throttle body or block off the FIAS with a blosk-off plate.

My new throttle body dosen't have that so there is nothing too block off except the hose where ever it goes.
So I there should be no issues with my new intake manifold and throttle body?
 
The thing you pointed out in your posts #4 & #5, circled in red is the idle control motor. No air lines connected to it but from the factory there are 2 coolant lines that connect to it coming from the thermostat housing for cold start high idle.
 
There is the ISC valve (tan) and that controls the idle speed electronically once warmed up, and allows for a/c and p/s idle up conditions.

The FIAV (with the coolant lines) is for cold start conditions to up the idle speed for faster warm up times.

You don't technically need either, but getting proper idle without the ISC is a pain and I'd usually reserve that for race-status only in fairly stable climates. If you plan to street drive the car at all, you will want it.

The FIAV you can bypass and many have done it as they tend to cause idle surge once they age. Unless you live in a very cold climate it's not necessary, tho I keep mine due to the vast temps swings we get as it helps it warm up much faster in -30* weather.

I'd recommend a remote ISC block if you want to retain some street ability.
 
There is the ISC valve (tan) and that controls the idle speed electronically once warmed up, and allows for a/c and p/s idle up conditions.

The FIAV (with the coolant lines) is for cold start conditions to up the idle speed for faster warm up times.

You don't technically need either, but getting proper idle without the ISC is a pain and I'd usually reserve that for race-status only in fairly stable climates. If you plan to street drive the car at all, you will want it.

The FIAV you can bypass and many have done it as they tend to cause idle surge once they age. Unless you live in a very cold climate it's not necessary, tho I keep mine due to the vast temps swings we get as it helps it warm up much faster in -30* weather.

I'd recommend a remote ISC block if you want to retain some street ability.

Cheers for the reply.
I guess I'll have too get an adapter plate or find a bigger throttle body that the isc fits on.
 
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