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4g63 Alternator Belt Help Please!

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Xrossfader

10+ Year Contributor
33
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Mar 4, 2012
San Mateo, California
I had a belt tear on me this morning and I'm looking to replace it. The power steering collapsed and my battery light came on. It's the belt on the back pulley if you are looking onto the motor from the top. Would this just be this serpentine belt:

Dayco Poly Rib Serpentine Belt | Product Details | Pep Boys

Also, I was looking for a guide on how to replace it as it's my first time and it seems like this is a good one:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ing-screeching-belt-finally-works-squeal.html


Any other tips would be great. Thanks!

Shots from the Chilton repair book. =]

A few more. Invade anyone else needs them.
 

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Here is a thread that will tell you what part # you need. Scroll down to post #3 by 19Eclipse90.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/391038-dumb-question-about-power-steering-belt.html

Also, do you know why the belt broke? Unless it's really old there are usually other reasons for belt breakage, usually due to a pulley seizing. More often than not it is the power steering pump that seizes due to fluid leaks that no one checks. You may want to check into that before assuming a belt will fix your issue.

As to replacing the belt, yes a Chilton should be able to safely guide you through that.

But just in case that fails, you will have to loosen the bolt in the rear and remove the two bolts behind the pulley of your power steering pump to get the belt on. After you get the belt on take a pry bar and leverage it against the pump until the belt feels tight, then install the two bolts behind the pulley, and finally tighten the rear bolt. Do all this while holding the pry bar tight.

A hint before you begin, make sure the two bolts behind the pulley can be accessed at the same time. Makes it MUCH easier. If you have to, turn the crank pulley or alternator pulley to align the holes in the pump to the bolts you need to remove. Should be 12mm in the front and 14mm in the rear IIRC.

Last, you will also have to remove the other accessory belt since the belt that connects to the power steering is the first one to go on. This diagram should illustrate what I mean, but basically you might as well replace the other belt while you are there. You don't have to replace or remove the a/c belt, but honestly you might as well while you are there.

The diagram is post #7 by rst95eclipse

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/159657-accessory-belt-routing-diagram-map-belts.html

Good luck.
 
Here is a thread that will tell you what part # you need. Scroll down to post #3 by 19Eclipse90.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/391038-dumb-question-about-power-steering-belt.html

Also, do you know why the belt broke? Unless it's really old there are usually other reasons for belt breakage, usually due to a pulley seizing. More often than not it is the power steering pump that seizes due to fluid leaks that no one checks. You may want to check into that before assuming a belt will fix your issue.

As to replacing the belt, yes a Chilton should be able to safely guide you through that.

But just in case that fails, you will have to loosen the bolt in the rear and remove the two bolts behind the pulley of your power steering pump to get the belt on. After you get the belt on take a pry bar and leverage it against the pump until the belt feels tight, then install the two bolts behind the pulley, and finally tighten the rear bolt. Do all this while holding the pry bar tight.

A hint before you begin, make sure the two bolts behind the pulley can be accessed at the same time. Makes it MUCH easier. If you have to, turn the crank pulley to align the holes in the pump to the bolts you need to remove. Should be 12mm in the front and 14mm in the rear IIRC.

Last, you will also have to remove the other accessory belt and possibly a/c belt(if you still have it on there) since the belt that connects to the power steering is the first one to go on. This diagram should illustrate what I mean, but basically you might as well replace all the belts at the same time.

The diagram is post #7 by rst95eclipse

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/159657-accessory-belt-routing-diagram-map-belts.html

Good luck.

Sweet man! Thanks!!

Also, do you know why the belt broke? Unless it's really old there are usually other reasons for belt breakage, usually due to a pulley seizing. More often than not it is the power steering pump that seizes due to fluid leaks that no one checks. You may want to check into that before assuming a belt will fix your issue.

That is a great question. The belt was old from what It looks like. it didn't actually tear anywhere but the side of it was tore up. I did notice some sort of seepage which I believed came from the newly discovered valve cover crack that was sealed with some sort of goo... Once again, thanks mate. Much appreciated!

Those ones? Are those bolts I should loosen?
 

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Yes those are the ones to remove. Don't forget to loosen the one on the back of the pump as well.

Ended up not needing to do that. Loosened the bolt to adjust the tension on the alternator and pushed it up. Belt slipped on no problem! Thanks for the tips!
 
Make sure you alternator belt is tight enough. Not too tight and not too loose. The noise should go away, if its coming from the new belt side.
Good luck
 
As shown in the Chilton's: if you press in the middle between the two pulleys on top of the belt, you should have, at least, a quarter inch deflection,

OR if you can twist the belt close to 90 degrees, you've got the right tension.
 
As shown in the Chilton's: if you press in the middle between the two pulleys on top of the belt, you should have, at least, a quarter inch deflection,

OR if you can twist the belt close to 90 degrees, you've got the right tension.

Thanks! I did the 90 degree tip an it worked great. Though my funny noise is coming from something else... Now I need to take it apart all over again. I've got a timing belt to replace anyways....
 
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