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2G 420A No power to coil

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BigTrip

Probationary Member
25
0
Jun 1, 2020
Tucson, Arizona
Hello all back again with a different problem I am trying to locate the Ignition control module for this 99 Eclipse GS
Can someone post a picture of the location so I can find it I am Not getting any power to the coil I don't know if the Ignition control module has failed it is very weird but with every weird encounter It raises a new level of understanding So it would be great if somebody could tell me where the Ignition control module is so I can see if power is going to it if so if the power is leaving from it to make sure it does or does not work please let me know thank you
 
I used to have that engine back in the day. The electric plug in the side of the coil pack is hard wired directly into the ECU, meaning no coil module. The coil pack is the box above the valve cover with the 4 plug wires attatched to it.
 
I used to have that engine back in the day. The electric plug in the side of the coil pack is hard wired directly into the ECU, meaning no coil module. The coil pack is the box above the valve cover with the 4 plug wires attatched to it.


Ok. So if I'm not getting power from that plug
To the coil and the ECU is where it comes from then replace the ECU and all is good after that for now?
 
I would assume so or someone on here might have a better solution. You can follow the wiring to the source (ECU) and see if there are worn areas, aggressive bends, pinches, or burn marks on the wires running from that ignition plug. Or check to see if your coil pack still has all its teeth and the ports on the plug are good. Sometimes the metal sleeves can ride up the connector and not actually make an electrical connection that one has happened to me before.
 
Question am I supposed to have power at that plug for the coil pack is there a way to test power coming to the plug I looked at other videos when I turned the key on I am supposed to have power coming from that plug but I don't have any power coming from that plug I tried cranking the car while having a test light on it and just turning the key in the on position still no power
 
There's an ignition fuse in the engine bay it's a 30 amp. If it's blown, replace it. If you've done any DIY wiring that is grounding wrong or charged wrong it will blow again. Switch your multimeter over to 20k stick the probes into the connector in fuse box both sides. If you don't get anything but 0.00 there is a problem test that fuse the same way.
 
So the guy that had the car previous stated
It is tuned for E85 fuel set up but it's ran crapy the entire time I don't know how to tell if it had a tune on it or not the car look pretty stock to me just a bunch of bolt ons that were added and things deleted that did not need to be deleted also they ran a hot wire from the fuse block underneath the dashboard To the fuel pump because you don't get any power from the fuel pump wiring to run a fuel pump strange i don't like the car anymore nothing but a headache but have to get it running
 
Most people save the tune to a laptop before removing the battery terminals. That is a fallback if the tune gets lost. If it does the car will go into a sort of limp mode where the ecu adjusts enough for the engine to run.
 
Well I've done all I know to do
Everything checks out other then getting power out of the coil plug
But check out this video then let me know if I did something wrong
Of do I go with my gut and get a new ECU
Most people save the tune to a laptop before removing the battery terminals. That is a fallback if the tune gets lost. If it does the car will go into a sort of limp mode where the ecu adjusts enough for the engine to run.

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Well I've done all I know to do
Everything checks out other then getting power out of the coil plug
But check out this video then let me know if I did something wrong
Of do I go with my gut and get a new ECU


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Ok so there is a big detail i failed to notice, I see the 420a you have is turbo charged. The stock ecu is not tune able so you must have an after market ecu or piggy back fuel air set up for that to even run. My opinion is a shorted out wire some where that directly affects communication with the ignition power supply. What were you doing prior to the dead ignition, were you doing maintenance, a repair, upgrade or anything?
 
Ok so there is a big detail i failed to notice, I see the 420a you have is turbo charged. The stock ecu is not tune able so you must have an after market ecu or piggy back fuel air set up for that to even run. My opinion is a shorted out wire some where that directly affects communication with the ignition power supply. What were you doing prior to the dead ignition, were you doing maintenance, a repair, upgrade or anything?

To answer some of your questions yes I was doing maintenance and repair I was trying to put the car back to stock There was some weird Ignition cut control deal added to the car I eliminated that and I was able to get power back to my dashboard all I was trying to do was put a fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter on the car had the battery cables off of the car for quite some time I tried to crank it after putting the battery cables back on the car sounded like it what it to start but did not successfully do it
I'm still new to this car it's been nothing but a headache I'm ready to call it quits The sad part is I drove it to my house and it was fine the 2nd I took things apart to try to put them back to normal everything went South
 
You cut out ignition wires that were added by previous owner. That might be the problem if those wires were ran in series on the ignition.
Secondly is the fuel pressure regulator on the car now. If so can you post a picture of how its hooked up?
Pull a spark plug smell the bottom to see if your car is moving fuel when you try to start it. My reason for this is to make 100% sure the problem is ignition alone. Did you install it before our after fuel rail?
 
You can also install the FPR backwards when that happens the fuel system won't flow that will also trash the bladder in the FPR and it is no long functional. Try removing it from the system put the hoses back the way they were and try starting it.
 
You cut out ignition wires that were added by previous owner. That might be the problem if those wires were ran in series on the ignition.
Secondly is the fuel pressure regulator on the car now. If so can you post a picture of how its hooked up?
Pull a spark plug smell the bottom to see if your car is moving fuel when you try to start it. My reason for this is to make 100% sure the problem is ignition alone. Did you install it before our after fuel rail?

It was one wire that had a remote chip in it I'll put a pic
I'll put a pic of Fuel pressure regulator up as well
I put a T in the line before the rail A line to the regulator then a line from the regulator to the Fuel
Mergent unit then ran a line back to the tank
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