4 months later and many upgrades.. only problem is no spark?

[93jdmlaser]

I broke my the shift rail in my trans 4 months ago and ended up needing a full rebuild. Then I was running a simple setup with an evo16g 2gmas 550s afc. In the past 4 months I got alot of upgrades. I installed my pte 50 trim, denso 660s, sx afpr, and a vpc. I got all the fluids in today and after crankin it over to get everything through I went to start it. I turns over well and I have full feul pressure. Its almost started the very first time I tried( afc said rpm went to 405). The car has not ran in 4 months and I am not sure what is causing this problem. The vpc is hooked up wit the harness and the map tapped in off the afpr line. Could the fuel have fluided it and not caused it to start. I will be checking today to see if I get spark from the plug(nology hotwires). I gonna change the plugs too incase there old. Is there anything else that could cause my car not to wanna turn over. I will post some pics of the install when its running. Any ideas on what this could be let me know. Im soo close now.

 

[93jdmlaser]

I pulled the wires off today and Im getting no spark through any of the wires. The regulator is reading 43 psi so its getting feul.

 

[liquordrunk]

if ur not getting any spark try ur coil pack or check the fuses in the box for the ignition.. its always the simple after the fact.. i would check those first

 

[ADrewzki]

Yep. The MPI fuse is one that's commonly burnt out.

 

[93jdmlaser]

Four months ago everything was fine. I installed the vpc but other than that no new controlling devices. Ill check the mpi relay tomorrow but where are the ingnition fuses in the box? Also how can I check if the coil pack and power transistor are good? Thanks

 

[liquordrunk]

the fuse box is over by the battery
and there is also one under the steering wheel i would honestly check all your fuses.. jsut to make sure

 

[hellotbone]

Check your fuses first there are only a hand ful of things that can cause this.

Then test the transistor,coils,wires,plugs and let us know. My guess is its a fuse forsure. If not then start trouble shooting. If you have an afc you can probably see the RPM when you turn it over that would rule out the transistor.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

if you have spark, it could be as simple as 4 month old gas.


jim

 

[Four62ci]

I had the same thing happen to me after my car had been sitting for several months. It turned out a new coil pack solved the problem. Thought this information might be relevant.

 

[kevingst]

If you try all of this and you still get no spark, then check your cas. That's the problem mine had a couple months ago.

 

[93jdmlaser]

I got my coil pack off the car now. I took my volt meter and messured the voltage goin to the coil pack. I did this by unplugging it and checking the pin hole that was opposite the pin that the red wire connects into. I got 7.3 volts which is also what the battery was reading. So I assume its getting power to the coil pack. Let me know if thats wrong. Now for the resistance test I put my meter on ohm setting 20M and got 0.1 for 1 to 4 and 2 to 3. When setting the ohm meter to 200K I get 12.1 for 1 to 4 and 12.4 for 2 to 3. Is there anyway to know what wrong by this info. I am thinking its the coil pack but let me know what you think. Thanks for the help. Oh and also when I first cranked it over I had the return fitting on the feul rail not tightened enough and gas sprayed out and probly got on the coil pack if that means anything.

 

[urcnjoe]

I got my coil pack off the car now. I took my volt meter and messured the voltage goin to the coil pack. I did this by unplugging it and checking the pin hole that was opposite the pin that the red wire connects into. I got 7.3 volts which is also what the battery was reading. So I assume its getting power to the coil pack. Let me know if thats wrong. Now for the resistance test I put my meter on ohm setting 20M and got 0.1 for 1 to 4 and 2 to 3. When setting the ohm meter to 200K I get 12.1 for 1 to 4 and 12.4 for 2 to 3. Is there anyway to know what wrong by this info. I am thinking its the coil pack but let me know what you think. Thanks for the help. Oh and also when I first cranked it over I had the return fitting on the feul rail not tightened enough and gas sprayed out and probly got on the coil pack if that means anything.

Since you are not getting spark that is one sign of a bad computer, but since you are getting fuel that is probably not the case. If the computer was bad it would shut off spark and fuel, and you would hear a clicking noise coming from the dash when you turn the key. So you can probably cross the computer off your list of things to check. My suggestion would be to get a Chilton's or Haynes manual if you don't have one already and they tell you exactly what steps to take for testing parts, and I suggest you test the coil packs, power transitor, and CAS with your OHM meter to the specs that the manual tells you. Best of luck.

 

[93jdmlaser]

I do hear a clicking noise but Im not sure what it is. I thought maybe the starter or I saw in another thread the cas clicks. I looked in my ecu for the eprom and it looked ok in there. I am def getting 43 psi of feul everytime and my friend saw it spark one time but not again when the plugs where out.

 

[hellotbone]

Thats not how to test the coil get your manual out and the volt meter and start Ohm testing.

 

[93jdmlaser]

Thanks for the usefull information. I did look in the manual and tested it. If anyone would care to tell me a better that would be great.

 

[93jdmlaser]

Ok I got a inductive timing light and tested the wires going into the coil pack and it pulsed so I assume that the power transistor is still ok. The resistance on the coil pack for 1-4 and 2-3 was within the limit. I put the timing light on the 1, 2, 3 spark plug wires and it flashed but did not flash on the 4th cyclinder wire. The car cranks everytime but doesnt not fire. It did spark one idle for about a second and back fired real loud. I am not sure what is wrong. The car has been siting for 4 months but I am out of ideas as of now. If you can think of anything please let me know.

 

[kevingst]

Pssst, cas...check the cas/// You said you've already read out everything else and it all read out good. Well...look up how to check the cas and do it! It could very EASILY be your problem.

You could pull the CAS and try rotating by hand and pin it out with a multi meter to see if it's generating an electric signal... volts and resistance. You only need 1/3rd rotation which you can do with a straight blade screwdriver and a flick of the wrist... it's kinda a 3 handed job unless you have mini alligator clips that can reach in the plug. You mentioned a shift point 4-5 @ 100 mph, I don't know what that translates to in RPM but yours would not be the first I've heard reports of letting go around redline.

I am sure there is somewhere you can probe with a test light to get the coils to fire as part of a troubleshooting diagnostic. Just be careful and have the plug wires off for I've had engines try to start when 1 cylr fired enough to spin the engine, one time almost caught fingers in a V-belt.


Cheers,
GTM

 

[93jdmlaser]

Ill check the cas but when I read other posts it said that if I am getting feul and the injs are pulsing the cas should be working fine. Anything else?

 

[ADrewzki]

I had something similar happen. A spark plug had grounded itself out because the arm got bent for some reason and had was nearly touching the electrode. It was a new plug and it threw me for a loop when it happened. Good luck man.

 

[93jdmlaser]

I was thinkin about it being the plugs but it wouldnt make sense that they all died and none get spark.

 

[93jdmlaser]

I put another old coil pack in and jumped the car and it started. Finally it runs again but not very well. I had to put my vpc gain on -10 and afc at -25% to get a decent idle. The car is sooo rich. I step on it and you can smell feul and see it smoke. Its getting better as I lean it out. I put my logger on it and I got an engine coolant temp. reading of -59*C and it stayed there. I think this is why its running bad. Any idea on this problem?

 

[Steve95GST]

I got my coil pack off the car now. I took my volt meter and messured the voltage goin to the coil pack. I did this by unplugging it and checking the pin hole that was opposite the pin that the red wire connects into. I got 7.3 volts which is also what the battery was reading. So I assume its getting power to the coil pack. Let me know if thats wrong. Now for the resistance test I put my meter on ohm setting 20M and got 0.1 for 1 to 4 and 2 to 3. When setting the ohm meter to 200K I get 12.1 for 1 to 4 and 12.4 for 2 to 3. Is there anyway to know what wrong by this info. I am thinking its the coil pack but let me know what you think. Thanks for the help. Oh and also when I first cranked it over I had the return fitting on the feul rail not tightened enough and gas sprayed out and probly got on the coil pack if that means anything.

So you said your car battery was only reading @ 7.3volts????? Are you serious? Last time I checked 12.1-12.4 volts was the normal reading with the car off. Maybe thats your problem... did you try jumping the car, or charging the battery at all. You did say it sat for 4 months, which means you're batter is probably darn near dead. And good luck getting your car running.


-Steve

 

[93jdmlaser]

Yea the car runs now but idle bads my post above yours describes that. The trouble code I got was for the feul pump but I know thats working ok its loud. I need to fix the coolant temp to get the car to run right.

 

[Maglin]

IF your coolant temp sensor isn't working it's almost impossible to start the car. Your logger will show a reading of -75*F. I know as I had this problem when I was at work. All my co workers thought my car was bad ass and then started totally dogging on me when I was cranking on it forever to get it started. It's amazing how a coolant temp sensor can make the car almost impossible to start a cold car. Once it's warmed up it will run ok.