3g 4g64 Throttle Cable will Fit 2g

[JJ_Is_Edge]

Hey,

I'm not sure if this has been posted or answered before, but, I searched here and google and I couldn't find anything so I figured I'd share in case it might help someone else. I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this but it's the only one I can post in so my apologies if this should be elsewhere.

I know that people have made the 420a non cruise throttle cables work on their 2gs in order to delete the cruise. However, I have a 2003 Eclipse with a 2.4l engine that is getting sent to the junkyard, so I figured I'd try to see if the throttle cable would bolt up to the 4g63t on account of them having the same block and the throttle bodies being in the same general area. Additionally, my model HAS cruise control, so it will not matter if you get it from a cruise or non-cruise model. I suspect this is because the cruise control on the 3g's is driven by completely by computers and sensors and doesn't have mechanical pulleys like on the 2gs. I could be wrong though.

I wasn't expecting it to work, but it took me about 15 minutes and after about 20 minutes of letting it re-learn the idle (I disconnected the battery) and making some adjustments, it's on there and looks pretty good. I looped it under the intake like people who have done the non-cruise 420a cable do, so I think it may be the same (or a very very similar cable. This is another option as 3gs are plentiful in junkyards and you could probably get one much cheaper than the $50 non cruise throttle cables new.

I took a few pictures if anyone is interested in seeing what the cable looks like pre-install.

PS - I've noticed the gas pedal is a bit "firmer." My datalogger is showing 0% throttle with my foot off, and I'm getting 97% throttle at WOT (I think my TPS needs to be adjusted) so I know it's adjusted okay, it just feel like I need to press harder to depress the pedal. Is this due to switching from a pulley system to a direct cable? Or maybe I messed up somewhere.

 

[curt-s]

Yes, the removal of the pulley would cause the pedal throw to be shorter and the force you would have to exert greater.

While a pulley can decrease the amount of force used to move an object (or turn the butterfly), you still need to exert the same amount of total force to get the same end result.. in this case, the pedal would have to depress further. Law of conservation of energy, whee!

So now if you go direct cable and lose the pulley, you have to exert more force but for a shorter distance.

I'd be more worried about what your true min/max is.. if you can only do 97% (and 0% is true 0%), then this might need some tweakin' or may not be possible. Should be, as the cable shouldn't be the thing that limits your distance, unless the cable is retracting all the way into the sheath and is the thing limiting distance.

Adjust your tps and report back, I'm sure there is interest in this.

 

[JJ_Is_Edge]

The "exerting more force for a shorter distance" is exactly the feeling I'm getting, thanks for the physics lesson! haha

I should mention, the 97% WOT is a problem I was having with my old cruise throttle cable, so I don't think it is the cable itself. I am going to do the 1g throttle body swap within the next week or two because my throttle plate is sticking a bit despite having been cleaned thoroughly. I was going to adjust TPS then. Is it more important to have 100% WOT or 0% at closed throttle? I *thought* I had read that on 2g's it is tricky to achieve both? I might be thinking of something else though.