The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2nd Gen Exhaust Manifold on a 1st Gen

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

04scooby

15+ Year Contributor
64
0
Jul 20, 2005
Blackwell, Oklahoma
Im just wondering if a 2nd Gen manifold will work on a first gen eclipse.

Thanks for any help.
 
Well, if you're talking about a 2ng Gen Exhaust Manifold, absolutely. It's an upgrade. If you haven't purchased it yet a better idea might be the EVO8 or better yet, the SBR is a step up from that for not much money. If you're talking about the Intake Manifold then the answer would generally be no without some fairly extensive modification. The runners are bigger, but where it lines up is smaller. It'll still bolt right up, but when the air comes through it's hitting a wall and creating turbulance which is never a good thing... least that I'm aware of.
 
the runners on the 2g are smaller than the runners on the 1g

the evo 8 exaust manifold does not work with our cars

the evo 3 does

the 2 g intake manifold will bolt up, but the performance will be much worse because the intake charge will lose a lot of its velocity when it gets to the head which has a much larger port than the 2g intake manifold....

i have a stock, unmodified 1g intake manifold for sale if you need one
 
well I really need a Exhaust manifold and turbo combo if possible. There are cracks in both.
 
Just get a 1g and port as much of it as you can. Thats what I did and it seems to be doing alright. I noticed a slight improvement.
 
I would not suggest replacing your cracked 1g manifold with another crack-prone 1g even if it was ported. You arent really fixing the problem in this case, just putting a bandaid on it. Just like ECU swapping, you want to actually "fix" the problem, not just replace it with one that is going to eventually develop the same problems. 2g manifolds can be had fairly easily and inexpensively, unless you are on a very tight budget and in a time crunch, i would invest in the 2g manifold.
 
hes right, dont use a 1g exaust manifold, they not only perform worse, but the 2g, evo3 and sbr exaust manifolds all have a different material compromise that makes them less prone to cracking... (i know the evo3 has a nickle something in it...) just get a used 2g (cheapest), an evo3 (cheaper), or the sbr exaust manifold (most expensive but best performing)
 
Both the 2G and EVO3 exhaust manifolds are a good replacement for the 1G. The outer two bolt holes are 10mm but work fine with the 8mm studs (I forget when they changed to 10mm, if it was the 1G 7 bolt or in '95 with the 2G's) you also might need to grind the one corner on the manifold to clear the power steering bracket at little bit.

You really don't want to put another 1G manifold on since it will only crack later.

The EVO3 is the better of the two based on runner size, placement of the runners and how they merge in the collector, and the larger collector outlet.

Steve
 
If you choose to purchase a 2g manifold they have a little more wall material to allow for safer porting thereby reducing the chance for cracks. I had been successfully running one for years without a concern. Although cracking is more common in stock manifolds because there is less nickel in it. If you choose an after-market manifold, choose one that has a higher nickel content, if you can. Same with your turbine housing on your new turbo. I would not concider tubular headers if you are concerned with cracking.
But I'd vote for a 2g manifold for less cost. And if you are running into cracking manifolds, then you should be keeping an eye on your exhaust temps. You may be running to lean. The other chance for your manifold to heat cycle is that the turbine housing is heating up to much from over boosting the turbo beyond it's efficientcy level. The heat from it could cause heat to transfer to the manifold as well. One way to avoid that is to make sure of your air/fuel mixtures and your waste gate not opening before your target boost. This would also be a performance benefit as well.
Also, if you go the way of the 2g manifold, you will have to grind off the lower right corner a little to clear the engine bracket there. That can be done with a dremmel or a table grinder. :thumb:
ew
 
Well, it is just that we just bought he car Friday and it does look like the guy just ran it hot for awhile and it just gave.
right now, we are just trying to get it running until i can get my chevy sold so i can have the cash to sink into the car... :)

but the evo3 does work in it w/out any problems though...
ill probably look into how much one of those costs..
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top