2g Oil Squirters

[Rabbi]

do the 2g oil squirters need to be removed before the block is sent off to the machine shop?

if so how do i go about removing them and reinstalling them?

Thanks guys

 

[Splitpi]

With the pistons and crankshaft + bearings removed, use a punch from the cylinder side and press them out. Throw them away and replace with new ones.

 

[Rabbi]

Thanks a ton Splitpi

Does anyone have a part # for the oil squirters since they arent re-usable?


Thanks guys

 

[Splitpi]

I believe MD050249. A call to your mitsu dealership will confirm that.

 

[dsmputz]

I just finished building a shortblock with wiseco 8.3 pistons and eagle rods. I'm going to ditch the oil squirters and was wondering how you guys are blocking the holes?. Welding cast sucks ass so I would rather just find a bolt that would fit and use that. Any suggestions??? thanks

Robby A

 

[Defiant]

Removing the piston crown cooling jets is highly not recommended (you will not be gaining thrust-bearing-saving oil pressure).
That said, brass plugs of the same dimension as the jet would be the plan, staked into place.

 

[Mike1992]

I just dropped a 7-bolt off at the machine shop this morning. I didn't remove the squirters. They should clean up in the wash tank shouldn't they?

 

[JWoodley]

In all likelihood I will not be using them in my build. Here's why:

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/crankwalk.htm

 

[Defiant]

I don't put as much stock in Mag's thoughts on how horrible oil jets can be as I do their value in cooling the piston crowns.
Your decision. I'd not do without them.

 

[Rabbi]

i was told to replace the 2g squirter's that i need two gaskets PER squirter for the reinstall. Anyone have any information on these?


also i will be using a eagle forged crankshaft,forged eagle rods, and forged wiseco pistons.

Do i even need the oil squirter's for this setup? My machinist told me i wont need them for a total forged bottom end.

 

[Rabbi]

i also just read that the assembly consists of 2 gaskets, the oil squirter and some sort of spacer per oil squirter.

Where can i get these parts?


my machinist is going to go ahead and knock the oil jets out and i am probably going to just replace them with block off pieces or something. The machinist agrees that with a forged crank/pistons/rods i wont need the oil jets.

 

[Rabbi]

Does anyone know anything about these or know where i can obtain some documentation on them? My motor is sitting in my garage waiting for oil squirters or blockoff's.

thanks guys

 

[JWoodley]

Will the car be daily driven? You should be ok if you get new squirters. Do some research and see if the EVO squirters are a possibility.

 

[project_tsi]

With a forged bottom end, you don't "need" them.

In my 6 bolt, I have wiseco pistons and eagle rods and NO squirters. I daily drive the car and have had no issues with them. The pistons are designed from the manufacturer to run cool without the squirters. Using the squirters may help to keep the pistons a little cooler, but they are not needed at all with forged pistons.

 

[project_tsi]

I used standard grade 10 hex head bolts to block mine. I don't remember the size of the bolt, but just bring a squirter bolt with you to get the right bolt thread/pitch, etc. Your going to want to cut the bolt to the same length as the stock squirter also.

Also, pick up some copper crush washers and red loctite to use as well on it.

 

[Defiant]

The running temperature won't change with forged pistons. They're just more heat-tolerant than cast pistons are.

 

[Rabbi]

thanks guys, i plan on picking some bolts up and matching them to the size of the oil squirters and lock tighting them in place.

Do i need the washers for the 2G style? i wouldnt think so since how they are designed.

 

[Rabbi]

has anyone even blocked the 2g squirter's or am i going to be the ginny pig?

 

[GVR4592]

Many people have blocked them, some people believe they are one of the contributing factors of crankwalk. Just make sure you port the oil pressure relief valve, or you'll have extremely high oil pressure.

 

[Maglin]

They just put more oil on the skirts and help cool the crown more than the splatter of oil thrown by the rod journal. You can run without them. Since they are there I prefer to run them. If you where to build a drag only motor I would definitely say to remove them and block it off. But then I would also say to fill the block and use a Honda radiator as well. The squirter's will also help with wrist pin lubrication.

I would look into getting new squirters. The 1G squirter's are very nice and just a clean is usually all they need. Not to sure about the 2G squirter's.

 

[pnishr]

With a forged bottom end, you don't "need" them.

In my 6 bolt, I have wiseco pistons and eagle rods and NO squirters. I daily drive the car and have had no issues with them. The pistons are designed from the manufacturer to run cool without the squirters. Using the squirters may help to keep the pistons a little cooler, but they are not needed at all with forged pistons.

To capitalize on Defiant's reply to this:

For daily, or drag race, yeah probably not "needed" with forged internals. I've got all forged, and mine are gone because I think most shops do it these days. HOWEVER I had the lead builder at a VERY reputable shop recommend leaving them in. And considering I'm building for eventual road-race, and therefor extended periods of heavy throttle, I think that's probably good advice.

So, drag/street: you CAN get rid of them if you think Magnus is right. (not to knock them because they have great products, and Marco is cool)

Roadrace or HEAVY long-term use: Keep them.

 

[4g64fiero]

Alright I have been searching for my friend who has a 2g 7 bolt and he wants to block off his oil squirters as well. We dont want peoples' theories as we can find those from searching, we would just like to know how to block them off.