Resolved 2G ECU possibly bad?

[ded_gone]

Alright, this is the first time I have tried to post. I've tried looking for info on my problem and talking to dealership tech's.

I had a problem driving down the road when my car seemed to lose power. I pulled over and it was idling about 400rpm. I turned the car off and checked a few things and found nothing apparent. I adjusted to idle control up so I would idle properly and proceeded to return home approx. a mile down the road. When I pulled onto my street my engine just shut off but my auto timer started counting down. After that it wouldn't turn over. I checked fuel and spark neither of which I was getting, so I replaced my fuel pump and my coil packs. Still nothing.

So I proceeded to find more info and decided to replace my crankshaft position sensor which are known to go bad on 2g 4g63t and still nothing. The only other two things I can think of are the cam angle sensor and the ECU. Unless the auto timer was spliced into the wrong wire off of the ECU for the speed sensor wire.

Any help or suggestions?

By the way i have a 95 Talon TSi AWD. My mods list is up to date with everything in the car.

 

[GUY]

if your car is still not starting check the ignitor. now when you say you lose power.......does your car barely run? drives but hits certain points and power cuts out? check your ecu for any apperent dammage. as well as check your capacitors.......they may of leaked.

 

[BOBS90TURBO]

Sounds like a bad ecu, pull the cover and check the boards for any tiny burnt spots along the circut path, smell it for any burnt smell, or maybee even a capacitor leak(fishy stinky smell), find a good one to swap out for a sec.

 

[andymoraitis]

Sounds like a bad ecu, pull the cover and check the boards for any tiny burnt spots along the circut path, smell it for any burnt smell, or maybee even a capacitor leak(fishy stinky smell), find a good one to swap out for a sec.

The 2G ECU's were not known for problems with ECU caps leaking as this was primarily a 1G problem. Nevertheless, it wouldn't hurt to look inside and see if anything's burned.

For the original poster, I would start with the basics and verify that the motor is getting fuel and spark. Replacing random pieces can get pricey and I'd rather see you spend your money working towards the actual problem. You've started in the right direction, but let us know if fuel and spark are present and if they are, I would also lean towards the ECU or CAS as a culprit.

Andy

 

[Opus69]

Sounds like he's experiencing a voltage loss...

I think it's something as simple as a loose battery connection or alternator going bad...

He said it's not "turning over" which to me indicates it's not even cranking.

When the alternator dies the car runs 100% off the battery until it's completely drained... when the voltage gets to the critical point the idle will often drop low or even surge a bit before finally dieing altogether.

Let us know if it's even cranking at this point.

 

[ded_gone]

Thank you all for your help. I was actually leaning toward it being the ECU. I've been working a lot so this weekend I'm removing the ECU to find out if it's EPROM or not and then go from there, but I believe it to be bad.

I have a buddy who has the same car as me and his is EPROM so I'll put it in to see if it works. So I will post again once if find out more.

 

[ded_gone]

Well, after a little more trouble shooting and looking at the ECU. the ECU is an EPROM and it is good.

I have no compression. valves tap in these cars all the time so I thought nothing of it and now I have to replace at least my valves and valve springs.

Well, lets just hope because I have to wait for a nice day to actually remove the valve cover to look at the top of the head so hopefully I won't have to remove the whole head. but I'll post more later as I'm trying the get her back on the road and running. later.