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2007 1G Car Prep

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,060
3,084
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Edit - this isn't the complete build, but it's the thread with the most info on the build

So after last season I decided to get the car ready to compete in Time Trials and some autocross starting this season. That meant I needed to make some decisions on the build-up. Up to this point the only planning involved in the setup of the car was the idea that it would be a streetable track monster. Many of the choices that were made a couple years ago ended up being wrong for this type of setup. The turbo that was chosen ended up being too big for road racing and autocross. The Ground Control kit that was purchased should have been ordered with stiffer spring rates, etc. So now the process begins... start setting the car up right.

First order of business - cooling:

I actually started this process last season after I realized it was tough keeping coolant temps low out on the race track. It's especially difficult up at 5,000 ft above sea level with the air being so thin. I got in touch with PWR and had them send me a thicker radiator and picked up a hood vent from CarbonTrix. I also removed the hood latch mechanism and installed hood pins to help open up more airflow through the small radiator opening.
radiator.jpg


I still need to cut a hole in the hood for the vent. I'm just waiting to see if I can't somehow pickup a fiberglass hood first so that I only have to do the work once. I'll be using rivets to attach the vent, and found a cheap rivet gun at HarborFreight that should do the job just fine.

Next - setup changes:

The car is good in terms of the engine, brakes, and much of the suspension. We just recently upgraded to a 4-piston Wilwood caliper TCE Performance Products brake kit with 13x1.10" vented rotors. I'll be adding some cooling ducts to help keep the brakes from burning up the pads so much. And we have poly bushings throughout most of the suspension, a rear toe eliminator kit, reinforced rear control arms, and a Koni/Ground Control setup to work with.
brakes.jpg


The two biggest areas that need to be addressed are the turbo setup and springs. The car currently has an internally gated PTE SCM6152E turbo (a journal bearing 56-trim with Mitsu housing). It's a good turbo but is too laggy for road racing and completely useless on the autocross courses. This will be replaced with a Forced Performance 3150, which is essentially a 50-trim dual ball bearing turbo which uses the FP30 turbine housing. That means I'll also be going external wastegate (44mm Tial coming from ExtremePSI). This should dramatically improve throttle response and spool coming out of the turns.

In terms of suspension, I'm keeping the Koni/Ground Control setup but will be playing with different spring rates. I'll also need to get some front camber plates to manage camber adjustments between the street and the track since I'll be driving the car to many of the events. The Toyo RA-1 (255/40/17) tires that I'll be buying need a lot of negative camber to work and wear well. I'll be putting those on my new Team Dynamics 17x9 (27mm offset) wheels that were purchased late last summer. They might require the use of flares, but I'm hoping I can just get away with stiff spring rates for now to prevent rubbing on the fenders. We'll see.
wheels.jpg


We'll also be looking to get a 4-point roll bar installed for safety.

Also - weight reduction:

I had already done a good deal of weight reduction - pulling the A/C components under the hood, cruise control, ABS, carpet padding, rear seats, spare tire (obviously), and some interior panels. I left the carpet in because this is still going to be a street car (at least in appearance) that I want to be able to drive around a little bit.

I will be pulling out most of the interior panels, the heating system, parts of the dash, possibly swapping the power windows for manual components, etc. Once more money becomes available or we get more sponsors, I'll be swapping the driveshaft out for a 2-piece aluminum replacement, getting a fiberglass hood and rear hatch, and swapping out the rear hatch glass and rear quarter windows with molded lexan.
interior-front.jpg


That's it for now. I'll have more info soon.
 
Last edited:
Wow! Looks like you have been busy, haha. I enjoy reading threads like this because I am still in the planning process to make my 1G into an aggressive SM set-up. Being able to read other members first hand experience is pretty valuable and it helps me catch the little things I would normally overlook in the beginning. great thread, I look forward to seeing more on your build this season :thumb:
 
Yeah, I'm thinking of doing some custom dash work too. I took it all apart and noticed how light the plastic frame was without the gray vinyl and metal cover. Plus I'd like to lower the dash a little for better visibility. We'll see how much time I have.
 

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I like the brakes :thumb:

I do have a question about the reinforced rear control arms. Did you notice any difference when doing this mod? Do you know how much it reduced deflections? How did you reinforce them. Just curious haven't came across this mod before for the DSM, but I am still a newbie in the DSM community?
 
I created some cardboard templates for the upper and lower arms and had a friend cut out and weld up some 1/8" metal sheets to "box" them up. I can't say I noticed a difference with that mod alone because I did poly bushings all around at the same time.
 
The PWR is a custom size that isn't listed on any retail site. It's a bit thicker than the normal replacement. The radiator sitting next to it is a Fluidyne. You'd have to contact PWR for pricing, as I don't know what the retail price is. We worked out a discounted deal.
 
The PWR is a custom size that isn't listed on any retail site. It's a bit thicker than the normal replacement. The radiator sitting next to it is a Fluidyne. You'd have to contact PWR for pricing, as I don't know what the retail price is. We worked out a discounted deal.

I'm assuming it's the 52mm. You're going to need to get an ultra slim fan that will sit in front of the Tial and dump tube. I ended up wrapping the dump tube with header wrap because it still come within mm's of the fan. I didn't have the dump tube go back into the downpipe either so I had to extend the tube so it was below the oil pan. Major flames from that bad boy...
 
You probably know this allready but if you have a choice I would route the dumptube on the passenger side of the downpipe. Your alternator will thank you. If you can't you should wrap it and make sure you have a spare alternator in your parts box. Roadracing can cook those things pretty easily.
 
Hey everybody, Tim has 9" wide wheels and no flares! How'd ya do it Tim? The world wants to know! Ok, I do 'cause I don't want flares.
 
Hey everybody, Tim has 9" wide wheels and no flares! How'd ya do it Tim? The world wants to know! Ok, I do 'cause I don't want flares.
Stiff spring rates ;)

As for the dump tube, I'm contemplating taking it to an exhaust shop and having them route it back into the O2 housing, then having the O2 housing coated. I'll probably wrap it a little too. And if I have trouble with the alternator I'll look into relocating it.
 
Stiff spring rates ;)

As for the dump tube, I'm contemplating taking it to an exhaust shop and having them route it back into the O2 housing, then having the O2 housing coated. I'll probably wrap it a little too. And if I have trouble with the alternator I'll look into relocating it.

Will 12kg/10kg be stiff enough? :rocks:

When I get the camera I'll post pics of my d/p mods to recirc. my 38mm Tial.:sneaky:
 
Stiff spring rates ;)

Don't forget that as you take weight out of the car your effective spring rate goes up. Picture a 400lbs spring on a Buick compared to the same spring on a Civic. I am still using the 400/350 DSS kit with Koni's but last year I did a little gutting myself. At the time I thought I needed to be closer to 500lb in the front to help combat nose dive under heavy braking but once the car went on a diet I no longer think the same way. A lighter car is better than stiffer springs.
 
I will be putting the 2.4 in soon. I did something bad to the engine yesterday at Thunderhill. What I don't know yet. All I can tell you is that I burnt out a gasket someplace in the exhaust system under hood and that I melted my upper timing cover.WTF ROFL As soon as I can figure how the hell to transfer the video I converted I will upload a session from TH and the aftermath.
 
I will be putting the 2.4 in soon. I did something bad to the engine yesterday at Thunderhill. What I don't know yet. All I can tell you is that I burnt out a gasket someplace in the exhaust system under hood and that I melted my upper timing cover.WTF ROFL As soon as I can figure how the hell to transfer the video I converted I will upload a session from TH and the aftermath.

I've had similar melt-downs in my track experience. For me I was struggling to keep the turbo bolts tight and that was causing leaks and the burnt up gaskets. On top of that I have a Tial 38mm gate on the O2 housing and that was burning up gaskets on a weekly basis.

The solution? First I ditched both the turbo and Tial gaskets. Its better run without them anyway. A few less things to fail when I'm 100 miles from home. The second fix was to firmly attach the down-pipe to the block. Its been two years and a number of hot lapping days at the Glen later I no exhaust leaks.
 
Don't forget that as you take weight out of the car your effective spring rate goes up. Picture a 400lbs spring on a Buick compared to the same spring on a Civic. I am still using the 400/350 DSS kit with Koni's but last year I did a little gutting myself. At the time I thought I needed to be closer to 500lb in the front to help combat nose dive under heavy braking but once the car went on a diet I no longer think the same way. A lighter car is better than stiffer springs.


Man, I guess my 500/400 pound spring setup with the Koni's will be a bit on the stiff side then. Oh well. :thumb:
 
Update - just finally finished pulling the carpet padding on the firewall, the blower motor, the A/C and heater core under the dash. Also got the battery box bolted to the rear hatch area a little better. Now it's time to get all the wiring run the way I want under the dash and to the battery in the hatch.

I've also decided to cut down on the amount of dash work I was originally planning on doing. I'll only be cutting up the part of the dash that used to connect to the center console and will be leaving the entire center console out of the car. I'm putting the carpet back in and will fab up a smaller/lighter center console out of ABS plastic and carpet pieces to cover the shifter assembly - which reminds me, anyone know where I can buy some matching dark gray carpet?

I know, I know, why put the carpet back in? This car will be used in Time Trials mainly but it will still be driven on the street occasionally. I'd like to keep a hint of civility about it. The extra 10 lbs of carpet will be offset by all of the other weight savings I'm doing. It will give it a street car appearance at first glance, which is what I'm shooting for.

Other projects I still need to do:

- Need to find a bad set of rear OEM 1g shocks to use for my Koni inserts
- Install RRE camber plates
- Install Engine Runup water injection kit
- Get gauges mocked up on new dash panel (where heater controls used to be)
- Cut away more wiring/harnesses/connectors
- Paint my springs before I put them on.
- Paint some trim pieces (and mirrors) that are chipping/fading

Parts that are on the way:

- Autometer Z-line water temp and oil temp gauges
- 2.5" Brake duct hose and NACA ducts
- FP 3150 (BB 50-trim using FP30 housing)
- FP Race Manifold
- FP recirculated 2.5" O2 housing
- I worked out a deal for a 6-8 point weld-in cage
- Tires will be ordered soon
 
Chris, I've been wanting to slim down that center console for a while now. Please post up some pictures when you are done. :thumb:

Will you be changing your e-brake handle out as well?
 
Will do. I just finished up some more work today. Got the battery cable routed, the gauge wires routed, moved my fuse block under the hood, created a new bracket for my MAF translator and catch can, pulled out the seat belts completely, removed the ABS wiring harness, got the grinder out and cut of some metal brackets that won't be used anymore, etc.

Tomorrow my ABS plastic and water and oil temp gauges come in so I can finish the dash work. The brake ducting comes in too. Once I finish up the interior I'll move on to the brake ducting, rear brake lines, and the springs/rear Koni install. Man this is a lot of work!
 
- Need to find a bad set of rear OEM 1g shocks to use for my Koni inserts
Are you talking about Koni's racing inserts, or their OE replacement cartidges? If you're talking about their racing ones, where would/did you get them from?

Thanks :)
 
You can get matching carpet at a decent car audio shop.
Couldn't find any at any of the local car audio shops around here. I did find a great deal at the local fabric shop though... it's not real carpet but it looks like it and it's light weight. Paid a whole $10 for 35 sq. ft. :)
 
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