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2 questions. alternator and vacuum

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gcihlar

10+ Year Contributor
114
1
Feb 16, 2011
Weston, Wisconsin
my alternator belt started squealing so i tried to tighten it up a bit but to no solution. so i bought a gates belt and still does not go away, it always starts to squeal when i start the car for about 5- 10 seconds then goes away. Anyone have a solution to this?

Also my vacuum on my boost gauge at idle which is about 850 ish - 900 rpm's is at like 11-13. for vacuum.... From what i have read vacuum should be 17-20? Mods are in profile and I did a boost leak test and fixed all the leaks that i could find/hear. Gauge is good as its new, the old one i had in it before read the same thing.... I know i have a leak by the exhaust manifold will this cause this.... other then that any other ideas? Thanks guys.
 
i will inspect it today, thank you for the advice. anyone else have any ideas if this doesn't pan out? Really hate starting my car in public places LOL
 
Here are some pics I took? Does the crank pully look bad?
 

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Can't really tell from the pics but chances are it's ok - they are more of a problem on 2g's which have more rubber. It doesn't wobble when idling or reving does it?

Did you get the correct belt size as far as width and height?
Does it always do the 5-10 second squeel whether engine is warm or cold (or only when cold)?
 
almost everytime i will try to make a video. it sounds horrible. if the car is completely warmed up and i park it and i come back 5 min later and start it most of the time it does not do it.

Yes im positive i got the right size belt. it started with my old belt so i figured what the hell change the belt. put the gates on on and problem still continues.

I have removed the fiav valve and the egr. so it doesn't like to idle nice on cold start ups. But when i first removed these it never squealed. It started last fall. so i changed the belt and now it does it like crazy.
 
with belt squeal the pulleys get glazed. get some gritting liguid hand soap and put a little on the belt.
 
ALT bets really needs to be almost super tight - less than a quarter-inch deflection when you push the top of the belt between the two pulleys with the finger - since there is a load on the alternator (field windings are receiving current turning it into an electromagnet) when the key gets turned on.

(I use belts from NAPA .. which are made by Gates...)

I like to use that center of the pulley to wrap a chain wrench around it when I bolt back on that center to the sprocket so I can tighten up the crank bolt with the torque wrench - play 'tug-of-war" with the torque wrench and the chain wrench.
 
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