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2.4 stroker kit???

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Please try searching as this topic has been covered several times this week alone. :|

To not be a total dick, I'll try to help you out, but you really need to read up on this topic first. Anyway the 2.4 liter motor is not a stroker and requires a new bottom end. The largest stroker motor [commonly] used is a 2.3 liter stroker which uses the 4g64 crank to make a larger stroke, hence the term stroker. As for the rods and pistons, you will never have a problem with new rods as they will only decrease the chances of major engine damage when you go for huge numbers. With the pistons, as long as you do not go with outrageously high compression ratios you should be fine. Higher compression is generally better for huge numbers, but for using the it on the street it could be unsatisfying as you would have to run minimal boost on pump gas to keep from knocking. With a lower compression piston you will be able to run more boost on a lower octane and have more streetable horsepower. As long as you read up a good deal on this topic I'm sure that you will find plenty of information on this topic.

Good luck
-Andrew
 
by making it into a stroked engine. you're taking the 2.4 liter crank and making a true 2.3 liter over all. you'll be running a 2.0 piston and rod combo which is the means of the reasoning. now having the stroker kit over a built 2.0 you'll be sacrificing the over all top end of the car. unlike building to redline at 10k you'll never see the higher redlines because of the 2.3 you will in fact gain the under side band. more of an off the line and mid range power. now theres many site sponsors suck as slowboyracing.com and others which sell you a crank and everything you need. now you can turn this into a project and build it on your own using the many references previously posted or bring it into a shop which will have it done with a high price attached. me personally i would like to know whats going on in my car and know that i completed the work myself. its not an impossible task to get done by your own. but its something to look into if your willing to go for that route.

edited:
 
you got to think to if your buying bored who bored your car? check with a machine shop and talk to them see what thell charge.
 
stealtheclipse said:
well i just got finished looking at slowboyracing.com and im looking at the eagle rods with the ross pistons combo for 763$ should i go bore .30 over or .20 over
The machine shop will tell you what overbore you will need, if any. Don't buy them before hand.
 
stealtheclipse said:
well i just got finished looking at slowboyracing.com and im looking at the eagle rods with the ross pistons combo for 763$ should i go bore .30 over or .20 over


I don't think you get it. To make it a 2.3 you need a new crank. Rods and pistons can only strengthen/raise or lower the compression ratio. To increase displacement you have to bore or stroke. In the case of a DSM we have a "sister" motor the 4g64 that is a 2.4 liter motor very similar to the motor you have, which is a 4g63.

A 2.0l is a 4g63 crank and block
A 2.1l is a 4g63 crank and a 4g64 block
A 2.3l is a 4g64 crank and a 4g63 block
A 2.4l is a 4g64 crank and block

Aftermarket pistons and rods are recomended in all cases when trying to increase power output substantially.
 
hey man u can get a 2.0 to 2.4l. You just have to punch it out like 60 over i believe. Yeah i know thats alot but it will end up with 2.3 if you use je or wiseco pistons. you have to have custom pistons made.
 
slopefunk said:
hey man u can get a 2.0 to 2.4l. You just have to punch it out like 60 over i believe. Yeah i know thats alot but it will end up with 2.3 if you use je or wiseco pistons. you have to have custom pistons made.


Boring a engine 60 over is NOT going to make your car a 2.3 :notgood:
 
Boring a chevy 350 30 over adds about 7ci of displacement. So a 122ci motor bored 60 over is not going to add 19ci. :notgood:
 
You can make it into a 2.4 liter you have to replace the block crank.
 
ZmanIV said:
You can make it into a 2.4 liter you have to replace the block crank.


Actually,no. It can be done to a 4G63 in theory. all you have to do is use the 100mm crank and overbore your block 1.5mm, as long as you are'nt too close to the water jackets after that, you're 2.4..
 
But the rod ratio is all wrong.

Give feedback if this post is helpfull
 
drivemusicnow said:
I don't think you get it. To make it a 2.3 you need a new crank. Rods and pistons can only strengthen/raise or lower the compression ratio. To increase displacement you have to bore or stroke. In the case of a DSM we have a "sister" motor the 4g64 that is a 2.4 liter motor very similar to the motor you have, which is a 4g63.

A 2.0l is a 4g63 crank and block
A 2.1l is a 4g63 crank and a 4g64 block
A 2.3l is a 4g64 crank and a 4g63 block
A 2.4l is a 4g64 crank and block

Aftermarket pistons and rods are recomended in all cases when trying to increase power output substantially.


This is correct. Boring a 4g63 engine does not make it a stroker. To make a stroker you change the stroke of the rods. This is done by changing the crank. As stated above by drivemuicnow.
 
by the way I was talking about putting 100mm crank in a 2L and then boring to 60 over that would give you close to 2400cc's
 
To answere the original question, a 2.4 (g4cs/4g64) build is great for a street setup IMO. I lost no airflow anywhere in the rpm band but made significant gains in the lower/mid rpm range. I can now pass cars on the highway with ease without having to downshift. Boost comes on much quicker and I like to shift at 6.5k now, which is better on the transmission than a 10k spinner.
 
avw0516 said:
Higher compression is generally better for huge numbers, but for using the it on the street it could be unsatisfying as you would have to run minimal boost on pump gas to keep from knocking.

With a lower compression piston you will be able to run more boost on a lower octane and have more streetable horsepower.


Backwards.


Lower compression better for huge numbers. Higher compression better for street.

You said it yourself..

"lower compression piston you will be able to run more boost." More boost = bigger numbers.



More streetable would be higher compression (stronger off-boost = more streetable).

Presumptively a simple mix-up, based on the otherwise.

Have a good one.
 
Turbocharged said:
To answere the original question, a 2.4 (g4cs/4g64) build is great for a street setup IMO. I lost no airflow anywhere in the rpm band but made significant gains in the lower/mid rpm range. I can now pass cars on the highway with ease without having to downshift. Boost comes on much quicker and I like to shift at 6.5k now, which is better on the transmission than a 10k spinner.


Well said.

Good examples.

:thumb:
 
Altough I run a 2.3, I second Turbocharged's statement. The stroker is much more friendly on the street and my passing gear is nothing more than 1/4 throttle to full boost in 5th. It's much more of a blast and I shift around the same spot (6.5K). Reliability comes from not trying to spin the thing to the moon and also from having a competent machine shop prepare the rotating assembly.
 
UofACATS said:
Backwards.


Lower compression better for huge numbers. Higher compression better for street.

You said it yourself..

"lower compression piston you will be able to run more boost." More boost = bigger numbers.



More streetable would be higher compression (stronger off-boost = more streetable).

Presumptively a simple mix-up, based on the otherwise.

Have a good one.
I kind of think what he meant was for an all-out track-car-only build. You know, when you can use things like C-16, water to air intercoolers, water injection and/or propane injection. In that situation higher compression could possibly be more beneficial at the same boost, because of the increased knock resistance. But if it were up to me, I would still go with the lower compression and just run more boost.
 
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