1g turbo fwd tuner needs help: long story ahead

[s15civic]

Hi fellow dsmers,
I need some help with my current setup/situation. The car I acqired from a friend. The car wasn't running due to all but 3 valves bent. But I bought the car for a dirt cheap price for the reason it was already swaped and turbocharged and 2 not a car you see everyday. But once start working on it I didn't know I was in for such a workout, the car was in serious bad shape from the inside to the out but the block was still in great shape. So I redid the interior with new carpet up front, new racing seats, new headliner, remove all the sound deading and speaker equipment and all the back panels painted the rear floor and etc etc. Installed ebay cheap a coilovers and napa camber kit only cause I got shafted out of some kyb agx shocks and h&r springs and the factory springs on the car were sagging really bad but also trying to stay in budget but plan on replacing down the road when get some cash saved up again with better stuff. Anyways on to the main thing the engine. All I have to say to sum it up is ghetto rigged. I still can't figure how the car was so fast with all the ghetto that was going on in there. Parts were held on with caulking and jb weld So this is were I'm at now. I sold the 14b and bought a hahn racecraft super 16g with a 3"o2 housing with some money left over and bought some polished and lightened rockers and some new bronze valve guides along with a set of 3g lifters. I purchased a set of 1mm oversized valves and brand new valve seals and hks valve springs. Then saved some more money up and brought a set of nippon stage 2 camshafts and a set of bomz cam gears. The head supposly has a light port and polish job done to it already but really can't tell along with the 2g manifold which I def can see and tell that it was. Then after a few weeks bought a home made 3 inch air intake and 2g maf sensor and a 4 inch air filter adapter and foam air filter. Then bought a apexi safc from my friend mike which I also aquired some factory 95 pistons with 20,000 miles on them and a 2g sidemount. At the same time I acquired a set 780cc fuel injectors off ebay and a cheap fuel pressure regulator looks like some obx mess. Now that I have acquired alot of the parts I needed to redo the engine I want take the block and head and send it out to get all the stuff installed.

But I need to know a few things first. Should i get the head ported out again but a lil bit more this time or leave it alone? Should I get the crank knifedged and micropolished? The super1g turbo has the wastegate weld shut and I want to keep the car simi factory looking under the engine bay and don't want to repalce the 2g exhaust manifold do I have another option then buying a set of headers with a wastegate flange on it or could I use a o2 housing the has a wastegate flange welded on it? Could I use a 94 integera fluidyne radiator with fal fans on the eclipse? It fits right in were the stock one use to be but it has the radiator cap on the radiator instead of the water neck so what could I do to fix that. I know to control the fuel injectors I need a eprom chip but do I need to rewire the car cause it runs on a non turbo ecu cause the car was a gs and had a engine swap with a turbo engine and just the wiring harness spliced. And would it be wiser to use a 2g or 1g side manifold. I tried to search to see what one was better but couldn't find anything. I have 2 2g side mounts and was going to put one on each side behind the front vents on my bumper and use alchool injection system to keep temps down cause I want to use the side mounts cause a lot of ppl believe the car is non turbo and with the side mounts hidden they will still believe that. And I also have a vcn2000 nitrous kit that I wouldn't mind using on the car since it's just sitting in my room doing nothing I bought it for my civic but haven't used since I put my civic down would you recomend using it. I can reprogram the computer for it. And what would be better a toyota supra fuel pump or a walbro 255lph? And the car has only a gutted cat and a aftermarket muffler that's really quiet. I would love to keep the car quiet so cops not looking at me all the time. But I have a electric cutout that has a 3inch opening could I fab that after the o2 housing with 3 inch pipe and keep the stock exhast piping after the cat so the car be quiet until the cutout is open and still gain the benefits of having like a full 3 inch exhaust when the cutout is open? I know there are other questions I have but I will leave them up here as I remeber or come into them. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Nick

 

[brute]

1. The Supra fuel pump flows around 290lph, while the Walbro flows 255. Just a judgement call as to how far you'll be taking the car.

2. Only use one sidemount. Using two would be such a huge hassle and wouldn't even be worth it. You can even look into a Supra sidemount as well. Here's how.

3. When you buy a turbo ECU, make sure it's EPROM. That way, you can do the EPROM chip you want.

4. Because the turbo you have has its wastegate flapper welded shut, you are not going to be able to run a wastegate off the o2 housing. They do, however, make manifolds with the wastegate port on them. This is probably the best one for the money. Unfortunately, it's not for sale right now, but be patient and see what happens.

5. As far as head porting, how much money and time do you have? If you have enough for it, feel free I guess. Same with the crank. The shop may take a while to do these things, and if you need the car for a daily driver, you may opt against them.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I also aquired some factory 95 pistons with 20,000 miles

You will have to have these machined to fit the 1G rods, for the price of machining them properly I would just get a set of forged pistons.

At the same time I acquired a set 780cc fuel injectors off ebay and a cheap fuel pressure regulator looks like some obx mess.

I would get a DSMLink with injectors that big, you wont be able to tune as persice with the AFC and on injectors the big. It is a general consensious that you up grade from an AFC when you pass 660s. Also make sure that the AFPR you have rises on a 1:1 ratio.

Should I get the crank knifedged and micropolished?

Your money would be better spent some where else.

The super1g turbo has the wastegate weld shut and I want to keep the car simi factory looking under the engine bay and don't want to repalce the 2g exhaust manifold do I have another option then buying a set of headers with a wastegate flange on it or could I use a o2 housing the has a wastegate flange welded on it?

There is always this>>>http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1355&, but you would have to remove the internal flapper that is welded shut.

Could I use a 94 integera fluidyne radiator with fal fans on the eclipse? It fits right in were the stock one use to be but it has the radiator cap on the radiator instead of the water neck so what could I do to fix that.

Well if the fans can clear everything then go for it...but you will have to shave the radiator cap off the radiator., and custom put it on the water neck pipe, other wise you will have clearance issues with the hood, and radiator cap.

I know to control the fuel injectors I need a eprom chip but do I need to rewire the car cause it runs on a non turbo ecu cause the car was a gs and had a engine swap with a turbo engine and just the wiring harness spliced.

Wow I dont know where to start first. Dont know who told you you need an EPROM ECU to control your injectors, but thats wrong. You need an Eprom ECU to run DSMLink, the injectors, are controlled by your EMS like the S-AFC or Link, or AEM standalone. You NEED an ECU from a turbo'd car when you do a n/t to turbo swap, and you will need a harness out of a turbo'd car or the same year as the ECU. Im surprised the engine isnt fried, from ghettoing the hell out of it like that.

And would it be wiser to use a 2g or 1g side manifold. I tried to search to see what one was better but couldn't find anything. I have 2 2g side mounts and was going to put one on each side behind the front vents on my bumper and use alchool injection system to keep temps down cause I want to use the side mounts cause a lot of ppl believe the car is non turbo and with the side mounts hidden they will still believe that.

I believe the 2G cools a little bit more then the 1G, but dont hold me to that. Also what is your basis to needing 2 SMICs? You would have headaches like crazy, and would need to go a lot of custom fabbing that wouldnt be worth it. just get a Supra SMIC, it will cool more then enough for you. Andy M. uses a Dejon SMIC and it is similar to the Supra SMIC, and he runs 25psi all day with no cooling problems. I would just sell the 2G SMICs and get a Supra SMIC. As for the alky injection, I would not do it if you will just be spraying it on your IC. I would go with a snow performance meth injection kit, and spray it into the TB, it will lower temps, and up your pump gas octane count so you can turn the boost up without seeing knock.

And I also have a vcn2000 nitrous kit

Im not apossed to n2o but I would say dont do it now. Wait till you get the car completly un-ghetto'd. Also is that a wet or dry kit?

And what would be better a toyota supra fuel pump or a walbro 255lph

Supra pump all the way. Its a bit mopre expensive, but is quieter and flows more then the Wally. I would re-wire which ever one you get so you get a more consistant voltage to the pump.

And the car has only a gutted cat and a aftermarket muffler that's really quiet. I would love to keep the car quiet so cops not looking at me all the time. But I have a electric cutout that has a 3inch opening could I fab that after the o2 housing with 3 inch pipe and keep the stock exhast piping after the cat so the car be quiet until the cutout is open and still gain the benefits of having like a full 3 inch exhaust when the cutout is open?

If you have emissions where you live you will fail with a cut-out, just for visual. I would seriously say get a 3" VRS turbo-back exhaust, its a nice low tone exhaust, and if your worried about the cops then just push in the clutch or keep it at lower rpms when driving by them. Just having the stock exhaust is restricting your set-up. Also make sure you get an aftermarket boost guage, and a MBC.

Dustin

 

[s15civic]

I would like to go around the 350 hp to 400 hp range for right now and save some money up and get the turbo rebuilt to a super 20g to reach my 500hp goal by then my mx3 should be up and running again so I can use that as my daily driver. But the eclipse came with a turbo ecu that has a eprom chip on it and he said when he tried to install it the car wouldn't start or anything but he gave it to me and said I might have more luck with it so I don't know if it works or not Only reason I thought about the two intercoolers is cause on a audi it's a upgrade says helps the turbo spool up quicker but don't really know if that's true or not and I already have 2 so I was just thinking about that. And the car will be used as a daily driver / weekend strip car for now until my other car is fixed. My budget on the car is 3000 and so far I spent about 1400 but still need the pistons installed and all that. But yeah I was afriad that I would have to replace the manifold :-( but I came across this flange and wondering if this would solve the problem?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-t...015QQitemZ250033267122QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Kinda in a rush for the car but I want it right and not having to fix ten billion things down the road. I already know I will need to replace the cheap ebay coilovers and apr asap. So if it needs to be down for awhile to have it done right I can live with that. Like I already know I have to save for a clutch and lsd but would it be wise to buy a lightweight flywheel and install it or wait till I'm not using the car as a daily driver?

and thanks for the reply
Nick

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Here are 2 links that show what was done for a n/t to turbo swap, and these werer done properly http://www.angelfire.com/il2/freestyle/turboconversion.html, or http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48231. that flange is to mate a turbo with a t3 flange to a DSM manifold. Also seriously IMO, those super turbo's from Hahn using the larger comp housings to elim creep, or what ever else, aren't worth it. i would just go with a true MHI 16G. You can up the boost on that pretty high. Andy had his at 26psi I believe with no problems, and his is a DD, and Don, has his at 24psi, and his is a DD with no problems either. Don is putting down 354 whp on an MHI 16G. here is a link to a 2G manifold that you could have drilled for a WG on the manifold>>>http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1891&, or just get a used one that already has a WG on the manifold for cheaper. Also I would have the machine shop deck the block and head( makes sure everything is perfectly flat, so the HG will seal properly), and just go ARP head studs now, they are 90$ on SBR. As for a clutch go with an ACT 2600, and you can get a lightened aftermarket fly, or send your stock one to RRE and have them step it to a height of .609"(to work with the ACT clutch), and they could also lighten it up. If you want this as a drag strip car later on, I would just keep the stock fly, it will allow for your rpm's to stay higher in between shifting, the lighter the fly the quicker the rpm's travel both up, and down. I would also go with a Quaife LSD as well. $1175 on RRE. Also seriously you could keep this as a DD, soon as Im out of college(next winter) I should be finished with a high 400hp DD FWD TSi. 350-400hp is streetable in my mind...and in Dons. Also if you have any questions on the meth injection shoot me a PM.
EDIT: Also the reason for the 2 ICs on the Audi, is because its a TT. Would be some complicated piping if you did that on a single turbo.

Dustin

 

[s15civic]

The machine shop giving me a break on the rods only 40 dollars for them to machine and attach the pistons cause I been there so much with my civic. I have almost uncompletely unghettoed the car but still this ecu problem has me all confused. I think the best bet would be is to buy a whole new wiring harness from a turbo car and install that instead of messing with this headache of wire splices. But it's running off the na computer and and fuel injectors but turbo fuel pump but he had it hooked up with a boost gauge and air fuel gauge and datalogger and the car had no knock or anything ran perfectly fine untill the timing belt went.

After reading a lot of posts, I still haven't figured out how the car was running but I saw it with my own two eyes or I wouldn't believe it either. But i was leaning more towards the supra fuel pump. I have viewed many of threads up here about it and everyone gives it great reviews. But i know I need to rewire the fuel pump already bought a kit for that but do I need to run bigger fuel lines or are the stock ones fine and would I need to upgrade the fuel filter since the pump is flowing more then stock?

The radiator fits perfect but would it be fine to use it with the radiator cap on both the radiator and water neck or would I need to take the radiator to the machine shop and get them to weld it clean off? The fans I was going to use are the fal slims fans I have from the civic cause I'm going with a smaller 92 style civic radiator and can't use the dual fans.

As far as the nitrous kit it's a dry kit but with the size fuel injectors I have I was thinking it be safe to use it just as a backup cause biggest shot I wanted to use was a 75 shot but most of the time the 50 jet would be in.

The water/alc kit I was going to use by the tb instead of spraying the intercoolers. Track won't allow you to use a water sprayer anyway.

But my friend told me to run the injectors I would need a eprom ecu rechipped to stage 3 chip with the 780cc injector choice and use the afc as a fine tunning tool after that to get the most out of it.

The two intercoolers probably be on ebay for sale soon also after reading the post ppl put up here and buy either a supra smic or a conquest fmic and paint it black.

We have emissions test here but only on 96 and newer cars. But the bottlenecking of the exhaust did come to my mind but just wanted to throw the idea out there and see what others had to say.

And already bought a new set of arp head studs and a brand new stock mit head gasket. But yeah everyone says the hahn turbos are crap and have mad lag but most of them are awd and I'm not I'm a fwd so I want to give it a try and see if it's capable of what they say it can do plus I be like the only dsm owner up here happy with the s16g . But it does has a t3 flange on it already and uses a adapter to fit the stock manifold so was wondering instead of using that flange use the one on ebay that has a wastegate flange attached to it but would it have any benefits of the wastegate being attached to the manifold instead of this flange?

But as far as a lsd I was just going to get a phantom grip cause they work and only cost 200 for the part and I have one on my civic and worked great for the time I was using it as the civic has been put done to be redone now.

thanks for the post and info I really do appreciate it. I have a honda and know those pretty well but new to the dsm scene and ready to learn. Oh and forgot to add it has a pretty recent rebuilt transmission.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

but do I need to run bigger fuel lines or are the stock ones fine and would I need to upgrade the fuel filter since the pump is flowing more then stock?

The stock ones will be fine. I would invest in a little bit bigger fuel filter, that will be where the most restiction on your fuel set-up comes from>>> http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1196&.

machine shop giving me a break on the rods only 40 dollars for them to machine

Then thats a good deal. Is it 40$ for all or each?

The radiator fits perfect but would it be fine to use it with the radiator cap on both the radiator and water neck or would I need to take the radiator to the machine shop and get them to weld it clean off?

It must be shaved clean off, the hood wont close properly with it still on the radiator.

But my friend told me to run the injectors I would need a eprom ecu rechipped to stage 3 chip with the 780cc injector choice and use the afc as a fine tunning tool after that to get the most out of it.

If you are going with a chip then yes that is true, I dont believe you mentioned that before...or I just missed it.

As far as the nitrous kit it's a dry kit but with the size fuel injectors I have I was thinking it be safe to use it just as a backup cause biggest shot I wanted to use was a 75 shot but most of the time the 50 jet would be in.

I would stay away from dry kits, wet kits are suggested for turbo'd cars, unless the engine is built up, ect, ect...

We have emissions test here but only on 96 and newer cars.

I still wouldnt do the electronic cut-out. Also if your track has something against spraying water, then they might have something against Db levels, that the cut-out would break. just go 3" turbo-back with a test-pipe, and have a nice free flowing exhaust all the time.
As far as the phantom grips, its really hit or miss, there are plenty of threads in here on the subject of true LSD to LSD incerts like the Phantom grip, I would truely say on a stock to slightly modded car the insert would be fine, but if you want to push 300+hp I would think it would break, I will just be going with a true Quaife LSD, and the good thing is is that if it breaks they will fix it for free. I would just get a quick spooling MHI 16G, and learn to clutch your car, where you wont have problems with it being quick spooling. I like how my 14B spools, I slip my clutch at 3200rpm(tires chirp for 5 seconds or so) then its all grip with a 1-2 shift chirp. If you think about it all Hahn did was take a CHRA from a 16G, and put it in a larger compressor housing to eliminat creep, as well as for a few other reasons. If slow spool is what you want get a 50 Trim with a 360* brass journal bearing it will spool a bit slower then a BB 50 Trim, so it will spool a little slower then a 16G, but allow for you to have a higher efficency range of the turbo( all supporting mods nessisary ofcourse)

Dustin

 

[Spooling99]

Look at how the chip is in the ecu, there should be an arrow or something that should line up on the left side of the chip to the ecu. If its not in correctly it will fry the chip upon start up.

If you want a 20G then you dont need a T3 adapter plate. Also AMS makes t3 adapter plates as well you should check those out if you want a t3 flanged turbo.

 

[s15civic]

40 is for all . I have spent a some cash there before with getting wheel studs pressed in and block sleeved and deck and a whole lot of other stuff so they give me a break on stuff that's not to time consumming. I forgot to metion the chip thing sorry. Yeah the whole dry kit and wet kit thing I have read many times but was just wondering if I just run the car a little rich when I want to shot would it be just as good as a wet kit. As far as the lsd it might break my budget but might be wiser in the long run just have to wait till tax returns for that I guess :-(

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Oh sure Adam, now you come in and awnser, now that I put up all the awnsers for the huge long question, haha. J/P

Dustin

 

[Spooling99]

What can I say I didn't like to read in school either

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I dont know too much on n2o just the basic's but in my mind having to run the car a little rich when you want spray just sounds like a band-aid fix that might have percussions in the long run. Yeah the Quaife true LSD will be better for you in the long run, and you will be much happier. Just wait till tax returns, and its like the gov. just bought you an LSD
PS: a guy you could talk to through PM on the dry-kit would be hairybeanbag (think thats his name on here. He seems to know a bunch on n2o.
Hahaha Adam, I know what you mean...I dont read unless its about cars.

Dustin

 

[Spooling99]

My suggestion is to fix everything wrong with the car first. Make sure it runs properly. I agree with dustin on the LSD your gonna break something with all that power. Whats your final goals for the car?

 

[s15civic]

The final goals is to have the car around 500hp and a massive top end but with using mit style turbo. And yeah I know about fixing everything and getting the ghetto out. I have been replacing parts and stuff as I work on the car. I'm working on the car in sections. I worked on the engine bay a little first to see what I had to work with. Then started on the outside on the body to see what kinda shape the body was in. Then moved to the interior and redoing stuff in there. Now I have finished the interior completely just need to finish mounting the seat belt harnesses. And bout to move to the engine bay to remove the engine and sand down the engine bay and repaint it because the ugly factory teal color is still there. And hopefully at the same time I can find a wiring harness to replace the hacked up one that's in there and run it neatly in there. And does anyone know where I can buy a complete hose kit to replace all the hoses on the car? And yeah I been going through the threads and it looks like it would be more wise to buy a flat out lsd instead of a insert. Thanks for all the help everyone.

Nick

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I would check out http://turbohoses.com/index.html for all your silicon needs or SBR, or RRE, ect, ect...Also go with hard IC piping, you will gain power, it will look much nicer.

Dustin

 

[s15civic]

But yeah the more I read the forums the more I find out a lsd is better then a insert. Could I still use the car until I can buy one? I found in the diy section how to make homemade motor inserts from cutting up a chopping board and using silicone to seal the pieces in to make solid motor mounts. As far as the ic piping I had planned on it just was trying to figure out the twin intercooler setup but doubt I will be doing that and going with either a supra smic or a conquest front mount. Either will have the hard piping. But would it be safe to say with what i have on the car and according to the forums stage manually that the car will be upwards the 350hp mark?

Thanks everyone,
Nick

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Yes, you could drive it with out the LSD, you just will lose traction easy when you get on it. The MM inserts are 75$ I would just buy them.

Dustin

 

[s15civic]

Well I did some calling around and a wiring harness isn't cheap. The cheapest I found one is 300 dollars and a supra side mount is around 200. So it's looking to be wiser just to get a ssautochrome front mount or a conquest front mount and try to correct the wiring if I still want to stay in budget and buy a lsd. Cause there are other parts I still need to buy

Nick

 

[Spooling99]

If you want 500hp with a mitsu housing I'd look into FP turbos. I believe SBR makes a mitsu bolt on GT35R that has made 667whp. Your gonna need some big injectors, I'd say 1000cc or more. Tuning with Link or AEM. Your also gonna need a big FMIC unless your plan on alot of water/meth injection. Do it once, Do it right.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Go check out the eBAY FMIC thread/bible, its circulating around the newb section. I would say just get the DSMLink, because you will have to upgrade to it soon. I would think 850s would be fine for you, but since on DSMLink you can go pretty high with injectors you might as well just go 950s to keep the IDC down. eBAY FMIC will probably be the best bang for the buck as far as FMICs go, but I would have a machine shop make short route piping, the piping that you get off those is generally long, so it takes longer to get that cold air to the engine, plus it is relitivly a better price to have a shop custom do some piping. I would say stick with the current turbo you have, and down the road after you have the LSD, get an FP Green, its a 50 Trim that has proven its self over and over again, and its backed up by FP, the only downside to this turbo is the 1200$ price tag, but if your shooting for high 400s/500hp, and want to stay with a mitsu flange thats the way to go. Also just out of curiosity why does your local track not allow you to spray water/meth?

Dustin

 

[s15civic]

Yea I saw the threads about the ebay fmic. I'm probably going to buy the ssautochrome intercooler setup and alchool injection system in a week or 2. And probably auction some items off like the 3 side mount intercoolers and some other items. I probably use the safc for now until I get the money for a dsmlink. I really should sell the car It seems like any car I buy I go broke over. I thought when I bought a ford festiva I was set but I sold that and then bought this car. Not completely sure just says no dripping fluids in the rules and examples oil, tran fluid, water sprayers

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I would go ask an offical at the track. If you do run the meth injection, your track boost levels will have to be lower (unless you get c16), and intake temps will be higher. It seems kind of odd that they would say that n2o is OK but water injection isnt. All meth/water injection does is cool the intake temp, and up pump gas octane count. Im not suggesting you sell it (thats up to you) but I would have looked over the car with a fine toothed comb before buying it...like checking for if things are modded correctly, what is on the car, if it was half assed, ect, ect...

Dustin

 

[s15civic]

Yeah I should of looked over the car pretty well but the body is perfect and stright and it had a few new parts already installed and I only paid 200 for the car so even with all the ghetto rigged stuff and stress to my mind and pockets but in the long run the car should be well worth it. But the rules for the track I'll look more into but doubt the car will see the track this yr :-( Going to hold off till I get a lsd so I'll be happier with my times and plus it give me more time to make sure everything on the car is right

Nick

 

[s15civic]

Well after a lot of reading and searching. I came to one conclusion this car is either going to be a hit or miss. I look at the car and it looks pretty nice right now but it still hasn't been on the road. I bought all of parts off ebay as of which a lot of ppl up here look down upon. But hopefully all will workout with this eclipse unlike the other one I had. That one with nothing modified and 120,000 miles and automatic tranny blew the whole bottom end out. At most I would like to get the best of quailty and performance but I know that doesn't come cheap. And I will admit I went on the cheap route with this eclipse but hey if I keep up matinece up on the car then I might just get some luck on my side and if it works out and puts down some nice numbers and times and work for a good amount of time I'll be more then happy. But if the car doesn't work out then I guess it will help others to learn from my mistakes. I'll post some pics of the car up here at some time

 

[s15civic]

Well it's been awhile since I posted anything to this thread. But here's a update to anyone that was helping me before or anything. The car has the engine out and tore apart ready to be sent to the machine shop. Going to order a tranny rebuild kit soon. But I have a XTD stage 4 clutch and a phantom grip lsd insert. Before anyone bashes them I seen both in action and they perform great for the price and I researched on them a lot before buying. I have decided to ditch the twin intercooler setup and bought a 1g fmic kit off ebay but instead got the 2g fmic with the short route piping that looks like be easier to install then the 1g kit itself. Whole engine bay has been striped down and sandblasted and primered and painted. Now in the process of rewiring the engine bay. I also bought a aftermarket toyota supra hood and modified it to fit on the eclipse with the use of the outline of the factory eclipse hood. And waiting on my lambo hinges to be delievered so I can install them. Don't worry it will have the power and speed to back it's looks. I will post pics around march due to the fact don't want ppl to see it till show car season cause I actually think it has a chance of being a winner. But I have decided to stick with the hahn s16g due to all the other supporting modifications i have. But hopefully I will have the engine and tranny done by March to install in the car and painted and finished by the end of April for the 13th annual slamsession supershow in Greenville, NC to debut the car. But I have to admit I have learned a lot from the site. At first I thought I bit off more then I could chew with this project but I have worked hard and just kept going with it and so far it's paying off. As far as the budget I was going with it's pretty in range still I'm siting at about 2800 I spent on the car and all the aftermarket parts and stuff so I'm very happy with that. But thanks again to everyone.

Nick