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1G TB.. on a 6Bolt, in a 2G?

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XiKeiyaZI

15+ Year Contributor
6,994
88
Dec 28, 2008
Goldsboro, North Carolina
Okay, so I just replaced the TB on my TSI with a 1G TB which is larger. The TB was running on my 1G TSI perfectly. The TB I took of off off the 2G (6 bolt swapped) was a 2G TB, so it was smaller. I just swapped them out, everything fit snuggly. I left the cable off on startup so that I could let the TB be closed and I turned the BISS all the way in. When I started it it shot up to 2.3K Idle and just sat there. After a few seconds it will surge for a second and then level back out.

A few facts on the previous TB. It has an FIAV blockoff. And, of course, is significantly smaller. The TB I just installed still has the IAC so I plugged it up to the harness when I placed it on the Manifold. There are coolant lines on the FIAV but they are not hooked up as the coolant lines on the thermostat have been eliminated. Would this cause the car to idle extremely high as it is? I was wondering if it's just doing this because this TB does not have an FIAV delete and if it will continue to do this until it is warmed up? Also, should I leave the IAC plugged up or what? =/ It's brown colored. I have a Black one sitting next to me. Should I install it instead?
 
If the coils on the ICS test out fine and the motor moves properly then there is no need to change it. If you want to replace it for piece of mind for a working unit then do so.

If the coolant lines are not hooked up to the FIAV and no bypass/block off plate is installed then the internal valves in not functioning properly. The valve is staying open and allowing air to bypass the throttle plate. It won't matter if your engine reaches operating temperatures or not, the idle will still stay high.

If you look at the inlet of the TB you will see the holes towards the plate, those are for the FIAV.

If you want to block the FIAV for free, knock out the freeze plug on the side and turn the valve located underneath the plug clockwise until it bottoms out. It closes the thermostat style valve and blocks off the air passage. That should solve your high idle.

I would also back the BISS out a few turns so the ICS is within it's operating range for the motor.
 
If the coils on the ICS test out fine and the motor moves properly then there is no need to change it. If you want to replace it for piece of mind for a working unit then do so.

If the coolant lines are not hooked up to the FIAV and no bypass/block off plate is installed then the internal valves in not functioning properly. The valve is staying open and allowing air to bypass the throttle plate. It won't matter if your engine reaches operating temperatures or not, the idle will still stay high.

If you look at the inlet of the TB you will see the holes towards the plate, those are for the FIAV.

If you want to block the FIAV for free, knock out the freeze plug on the side and turn the valve located underneath the plug clockwise until it bottoms out. It closes the thermostat style valve and blocks off the air passage. That should solve your high idle.

I would also back the BISS out a few turns so the ICS is within it's operating range for the motor.

IAC tested fine. I guess it's either route the coolant lines back on it, or block it. Haha. Either way, I have to take the TB back off, which is a pain.
 
Oh it's not a pain to do ROFL

If you don't have a spare bypass plate then just do the free way. I have it done and it works greats. I've done it to a friends TB and guided another member to do it and both without problems either.

If you need some help on it, let me know and I'll dig up the walk through for it. It's VERY simple to do.

Besides Kei, having the coolant lines on heats up the TB and intake manifold which make your air charge hotter. You know how much heat was taken away when you bypassed it on the other TB.
 
True...

Well, Update : I just tested the IAC from the 1G TB I put on. It's bad. I'm assuming all IAC's are interchangeable through the 1-2Gns?

Also...=/ I can't seem to get the damned freeze plug out of my 'test' throttle body. Should jump on AIM.
 
This is very interesting me and my friend have weird idle issues because we run 1g TBs and i am for sure doing this block off if i can get it apart. I knew about the block off plate but didnt know you could just tighten that one part down and it would cut off the airflow.
 
I just tried Liquid's method. Works flawlessly!

I just want to note that it's best to use Needle Nosed pliers and insert the tips into the circle indentions at each end of the X shape on the plate. Then, spin the pliers. I thought I had it down as far as it'd go until I did this, turns out there were about 7 more full rotations left.
 
Technically it's RRE's method :thumb: Glad it has worked yet again for another member. It's always a good time saving a few bucks.
 
Your lucky you can do that. Cutting off my high idle isn't much of an option in -45 weather. :facepalm:
 
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