1g in a 2g Details - How to cool my turbo? WTF is this on the TB? Can I just cap..

[High PSI]

I'm in the middle of putting a 6-bolt in my 1995 GSX, and I'm scratching my head regarding some of the details:

1) Coolant to the Turbo (14B). I did a search, found this thread (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/437674-turbo-coolant-line-block.html) and came away a bit confused. Some people are saying the 6-bolt doesn't have any of the turbo coolant lines tied directly into the block, some are saying it does. Here's what I'm looking at doing:

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Note I have the 90-style air-cooled oil-filter housing. Only problem I have is that the banjo bolt and water pipe off of my 2g 7-bolt won't fit in the hole on my 6-bolt. I'm assuming I can buy the same parts (shown below) for the 6-bolt from Mitsubishi?

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2) My 1g TB has a connector on the side of it that my 2g TB didn't have (looks like it's just tells the ECU whether the throttle is completely closed or not). Do I just leave this unhooked on my 2g? (also - any issues with using the 1g TB's TPS?)

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3) I deleted my EGR (because race car). Can I just cap off all of these?

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TIA Guys.

 

[1Gina2G]

Im not positive about the 1g Tb as ive never messed with one but for coolant there's alot of options. If you cant find a fitting for the block to line, you could always plug it off with a bolt and tap into your existing coolant lines with a metal T fitting. I found this out a while ago after realizing i had a no spot to connect my turbo water return for my swap. And yeah you can cap off those pprts onb the tb since you removed the egr. Personally i used rubber plugs with jb weld andsmall zipties to keep the boost in since the first time they bubbled up when doing my first boost leak test. Goodluck

 

[Wil_Own]

Just cap off all the coolant lines you really don't need to run coolant threw the turbo unless your going to be running it hard then shutting it off hot? Just get a turbo timer I ran my E316g forever without coolant had no shaft play when I switched turbos. You can cap all those vac lines on throttle body,also you need to use your 2g tps has the idle switch built into it..anymore Q's? Let me know

 

[High PSI]

Just cap off all the coolant lines you really don't need to run coolant threw the turbo unless your going to be running it hard then shutting it off hot? Just get a turbo timer I ran my E316g forever without coolant had no shaft play when I switched turbos. You can cap all those vac lines on throttle body,also you need to use your 2g tps has the idle switch built into it..anymore Q's? Let me know

It's good to know that the coolant lines aren't necessary - I may cap them to begin with, and I already have a turbo timer installed - but I would like to tie them back in eventually. The engine is a fully built (forged internals, cams, "stage IV" port job) 2.3L, and I'm going to be running a 14B for the time being. I'm going to push everything out of the 14B I can since the engine can handle whatever the 14B can throw at it. The car is being built for road racing; with 20-45 minute WOT sessions, I'm going to need all the help I can get to keep the turbo alive.

FYI (just to keep the thread active), after some time with a flashlight I discovered that none of the taps on the front of the 6-bolt block tie into the coolant jacket (or the "into" the engine in any way).

I think I may use a metal T-fitting as 1Gina2G suggested. However, I'm fairly sure I can just tie it in like this?

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Also, a few more questions in regards to the pic below:

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Which hole do I use for the 2g Knock Sensor? And what goes in the hole that's open to the inside of the block? Lastly, is the bracket that supports the intake manifold off of the back of the block necessary? I tried to re-use my 2g bracket but it obviously doesn't fit. I suppose it wouldn't be too hard to source a 1g bracket, but I can't imagine there is that much stress on the manifold that the flange couldn't handle it...

 

[007jimmy]

Knock sensor goes into the port you have blocked off with a bolt that is to the right of the AC bracket. Right above the freeze plug. The other hole, you are missing a plug that goes there. That hole is used to check the position of the balance shaft and ensure that it is orientated correctly. If you dont plug it, it will spill a ton of oil.
As for the intake bracket, most people dont use them.

 

[wibblersnatch]

Why don't you just run the water lines the way they were intended? There's a hard metal line that comes off the water pipe and connects to the front of the turbo. Then there's another smaller metal line that goes from the back of the turbo to the thermostat housing. I'm pretty sure you may even be able to to use the lines off the T25. Don't quote me on that its been a while since I messed with a 2G.

The lines look like this:

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_water_line_kit.htm

 

[19Eclipse90]

1) Coolant to the Turbo (14B). I did a search, found this thread (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/437674-turbo-coolant-line-block.html) and came away a bit confused. Some people are saying the 6-bolt doesn't have any of the turbo coolant lines tied directly into the block, some are saying it does. Here's what I'm looking at doing:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Note I have the 90-style air-cooled oil-filter housing. Only problem I have is that the banjo bolt and water pipe off of my 2g 7-bolt won't fit in the hole on my 6-bolt.

I realize you've figured this out already, but to reiterate, the 6-bolt block does not have coolant exits for the turbo feed. The hole you marked for the banjo bolt in your picture is a motor mount bracket bolt hole. The other thing you'll need to close off is the original turbo coolant return port, which is that bung on the water pipe, just north of the hole you've marked as the banjo bolt hole.

With the '90 OFH and without running coolant to your turbo, you're best bet would be to get an NT water pipe. This will eliminate both openings in the water pipe that you're messing with. If you want to maintain the potentiality that you'll run coolant to your turbo, you'll need to track down a '90 turbo water pipe.

I'm assuming I can buy the same parts (shown below) for the 6-bolt from Mitsubishi?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Again, to reiterate, these parts do not exist for 6-bolts. Nor do they exist for 1G 7-bolts. These are 2G turbo specific parts. For anyone looking, the part numbers are listed here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/385767-2g-block-coolant-line.html.

FYI (just to keep the thread active), after some time with a flashlight I discovered that none of the taps on the front of the 6-bolt block tie into the coolant jacket (or the "into" the engine in any way).

I think I may use a metal T-fitting as 1Gina2G suggested. However, I'm fairly sure I can just tie it in like this?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

See my comment above about the original turbo coolant return port bung on the water pipe.

Also, a few more questions in regards to the pic below:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Which hole do I use for the 2g Knock Sensor? And what goes in the hole that's open to the inside of the block? Lastly, is the bracket that supports the intake manifold off of the back of the block necessary? I tried to re-use my 2g bracket but it obviously doesn't fit. I suppose it wouldn't be too hard to source a 1g bracket, but I can't imagine there is that much stress on the manifold that the flange couldn't handle it...

Jimmy's got you covered here.

 

[High PSI]

Knock sensor goes into the port you have blocked off with a bolt that is to the right of the AC bracket. Right above the freeze plug. The other hole, you are missing a plug that goes there. That hole is used to check the position of the balance shaft and ensure that it is orientated correctly. If you dont plug it, it will spill a ton of oil.
As for the intake bracket, most people dont use them.

Awesome - thanks for the info. Very interesting about the knock sensor location. I would have bet the farm that that was the spot for the intake bracket to bolt to the block.

Regarding the open hole on the back of the block - I'm assuming I can just throw any old bolt in there? Dumb question I'm sure, but that one will be a bit of a PITA to get to later (and a tough spot to notice an oil leak, I'm sure).

I realize you've figured this out already, but to reiterate, the 6-bolt block does not have coolant exits for the turbo feed. The hole you marked for the banjo bolt in your picture is a motor mount bracket bolt hole. The other thing you'll need to close off is the original turbo coolant return port, which is that bung on the water pipe, just north of the hole you've marked as the banjo bolt hole.

With the '90 OFH and without running coolant to your turbo, you're best bet would be to get an NT water pipe. This will eliminate both openings in the water pipe that you're messing with. If you want to maintain the potentiality that you'll run coolant to your turbo, you'll need to track down a '90 turbo water pipe.



Again, to reiterate, these parts do not exist for 6-bolts. Nor do they exist for 1G 7-bolts. These are 2G turbo specific parts. For anyone looking, the part numbers are listed here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/385767-2g-block-coolant-line.html.







See my comment above about the original turbo coolant return port bung on the water pipe.



Jimmy's got you covered here.

Perfect. Also, it's hard to tell, but the "original turbo coolant return port, which is that bung on the water pipe, just north of the hole you've marked as the banjo bolt hole" is actually already welded shut. This 6-bolt I'm installing was already in a 2g, and it was said to come with the "6-bolt water pipe". Since it had the 90 style OFH I thought this pipe was the 90 turbo water pipe. Guess not.

I would like to run coolant to the turbo. Any issues with doing it how I now see fit (last picture - supply from thermostat housing, return to the water pipe)? I'm shooting to have this engine in the car within a few days (just waiting for new dowel pins so I can install the tranny) so my chance of tracking down a 90-style water pipe on such short notice is slim-to-none.

 

[007jimmy]

Regarding the open hole on the back of the block - I'm assuming I can just throw any old bolt in there? Dumb question I'm sure, but that one will be a bit of a PITA to get to later (and a tough spot to notice an oil leak, I'm sure).

You would just need a bolt long enough to fill the threads in the block to seal up the hole. I would suggest using black RTV on the threads to help ensure no leaks.

 

[19Eclipse90]

I would like to run coolant to the turbo. Any issues with doing it how I now see fit (last picture - supply from thermostat housing, return to the water pipe)?

That should work out. You'll need some custom return line to get it to that nipple on the water pipe but I'm sure that, after all this, it won't be difficult for you to do.

 

[High PSI]

Thanks again guys. This kind of support is the reason why I dumped my Audi TT and got back into the DSM game after being out for 8-years.