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1991 rapid vibration in/by motor.

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92AWDTalonTSI

10+ Year Contributor
334
7
Jun 2, 2010
Somonauk, Illinois
At idle ~750 RPM. If I hit the throttle then let off. The engine makes a very rapid vibration that can be felt inside the car. Being that this car sat for a few years (Being started once or twice during the summer.) Could it be a bad pulley or something of that sort?

The car seems to drive fine other than that. I really would like info on this issue. I marked the HB and didn't see any signs of it being separated.
 
Does this happen while driving or parked? If while parked try to pin point the source. One way to do this is an old trick, use a hollow pipe about three feet long hold one end behind your ear and the other to different parts of the engine and trans. It works like a steathoscope and will allow you to list to specific locations only. I had a 1g previously and it ended up being the trans grinding for me. Just my 2 pennies.
 
Check timing, if it's sat that long, there's no telling what condition that timing belt is in or how much it's stretched.
 
Yes I believe the timing belt did stretch. But I don't think this is from that. It is a very hard grinding noise. Sounds nasty.

I'll post a video after I go play in the junk yard for a few hours :hellyeah:

Any yes it does it parked.

VIDEO

^^ Listen closely on both the rev up and the rev down. Let me know what you think. My father said it's a loose timing belt or a pulley that was rusted.
 
Sadly I can't listen to Audio here at the office. Buuut... if it's what I think it is...I had the same issue due to my oil pump being out of phase.

Gonna have to change that timing belt anyway.
 
I'll run out and try to lube them up and see if that gets rid of the problem.

I just realized out of my stupidity. I posted and have been posting in the main "Newbie" forum. I apologize for that and I will post in the correct forums from now on out. Please if possible move this post to the correct forum category.

Lube and no change. Any other tips?
 
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Sounds like either a pulley or a physical obstruction to a belt. Pull the drivers side wheel off and take a look from there, the source of the noise should be pretty obvious once you start pulling on stuff. Anything with any play in it should be replaced but I wouldn't feel bad putting money on a water pump failure.
 
Indeed. The last person that had the car had to replace the head and all because of an overheat. I'll look into that. Will I be getting flow of my water pump is bad? Also, this vibration is not just a sound. You can actually feel it very well. I had a fer local people tell me it was a belt slapping the shroud.
 
They probably never replaced the tensioner when the TB was replaced. Now you need to replace both TB and the tensioner, plus the waterpump to be safe
 
Indeed. The last person that had the car had to replace the head and all because of an overheat. I'll look into that. Will I be getting flow of my water pump is bad? Also, this vibration is not just a sound. You can actually feel it very well. I had a fer local people tell me it was a belt slapping the shroud.

If it wasn't you'd know it. Also check your fans for good measure, sometimes an obstruction near a fan can cause that sort of sound.
 
man i just bought my talon and mine is doing the same thing. It like vibrates real bad at first rev then when decreasing in R's. I can feel it in my steering wheel, and also even at highway speeds. My car also don't hit full boost till 3200+ and i have a 13b turbo and only peaks at like 7 psi. I hope we can help each other with this problem.
 
Indeed. The last person that had the car had to replace the head and all because of an overheat. I'll look into that. Will I be getting flow of my water pump is bad? Also, this vibration is not just a sound. You can actually feel it very well. I had a fer local people tell me it was a belt slapping the shroud.

Your oil pump gear is 180degrees out of phase, that is all. Just redo your timing belt and make sure to put a new tensioner also. Buy yourself a Haynes manual and follow the steps.
 
Well, I have Alldata and it leads me in circles. There are a few things I can find but overall I am lost in Alldata. Will it be in the service manuals? And by 180 degrees do you mean that all I have to do is rotate it 180 degrees in either direction to achieve my goal? Should I get Hydraulic a Tensioner Adjuster (casting #533)?
 
You're going to have to pretty much redo your timing. Take off your covers, rotate the crank so that all timing marks line up accordingly. With the belt off, point the arrow on the oil pump sprocket straight up, if it falls towards the mark its in phase, if not its out. Turn a complete turn if not into phase...everything should be fine after...
 
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Your oil pump gear is 180degrees out of phase, that is all. Just redo your timing belt and make sure to put a new tensioner also. Buy yourself a Haynes manual and follow the steps.

Now that it is mentioned I have to agree. I retract my earlier statements but when you have your timing belt off do the water pump too or else you'll be doing another timing job when the water pump goes.
 
Thats an OK kit, but as far as the timing belt, stick with a genuine oem Mitsubishi belt. Dont want to half it and have a belt bust on you and bent valves, etc. Same goes for the water pump many say. Although ive gotten away using an AutoZone one now for a few years.
 
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