14 for the winter

[blight]

I already have a turbo mustang now fo the summer but a 450whp rwd front heavy stang SUCKS for winter SO. I say DSM all the way "G"....

So i can't have something slow OBVIOSLY.... so need a 14 i think these get half way decent milage and they come with a turbo already (well...some if them...) and they are not ungodly ugly...

So my question is with winter tires and a manual tranny (other than driver tech) what would it take for a fwd turbo 1st gen eclipse laser or talon to make a 14 second 1/4 mile?

And what year and car should i am for here? laser for the wieght?

Will the free mods do it or even a decent mandrel bent 3" exhaust?

For future reference i do not have emissions in my state at all - so you guys in calli ... sorry but i shall gloat in your face as you slap me up side the head.... (please don't hurt me )

So any info will be great. BTW i a cheap bastard BUT not so cheap as to have a manual boost controller and interal wategate and soforth. i like electonics... electorns good.. thanx all!

 

[turbo2086]

Doesnt take much, look at my car for example. Laser's have the lightest chassis though.

 

[blight]

Doesnt take much, look at my car for example. Laser's have the lightest chassis though.

SO you pretty much did the free mods except the manifold Evo III Exhaust Manifold.... Cool

So why the Iridium Plugs? (here is a dumb question i should know-) what is a Catch Can and a EGT gauge? If i were to go electronic boost controller is there a best bang for the buck one? (i am not a big fan of manual boost controllers) or is there a manual one that you can adjust inside the cockpit yet? What kind of fuel pump did you use? ANd lastly how much would a car like yours BEFORE the mods cost as i am looking for one on average?

Any recomendations when looking for one -like how to tell if the tranny is in good shape- these cars have tranny problems if i remember right and what kind of tranny fluid is it again that i am to use? Any good websites to find these in my area - other than keepitlocal.com autotrader.com carsoup.com? Is there a good way of ebaying it or is it even worth it? I do have another car if i need to drive out to get it. any specific rust areas i should look out for? or how to tell if the ic is still good? Hey cool car btw. There is nothing wrong with a laser so don't ever let anyone tell you that and a good black laser is pretty cool to me.

 

[turbo2086]

Thanks much. I do have a manual boost controller too. I thought I had that in the mods... I turned the psi up 14-15 when I did that time. I wasn't knocking either. The boost controller is the bigges bang for your buck, just use it responsibly

1. I did iridium plugs, cause they are a little better then platinums. I got like an extra mpg, and a smoother idle. Not going to notice performance differences at this stage.

2. There is a hose on the left side of the valve cover that goes to the intake tube before the turbo. It has its purpose, but oil tends to get in the tube and go into your intake. So a catch can is a cheap/free mod that filters the oil out, and keeps the intake clean.

3. EGT stands for: exhaust gas temperature. It allows you to see the temperature of your exhaust. A really high temperature usually means your leaning out, so you know to let off the throttle before you cause any real damage. Usually we tap in the number one cylinder because that would be the one that leans out first.

4. I have a maunal boost gauge, a cheap one off of ebay. It works well. Electronic boost gauge work well too, but are much more expensive. Some say they are unreliable past 25psi, but we are far from that stage. I froogle searched "cockpit boost controller" and a good number showed up, but yes they make them.

5. Stock fuel pump, I'm going to get a 190 soon though.

6. I got my car from duluth MN, and the guy asked for 3500. I gave him 3100 cash. The car was in good shape, from a mature owner. There was a 91 talon tsi awd for sale around here for 4500. I talked to the guy, he said he spent a lot on maintence. I dont see the car anymore, but keep a lookout for ya.

7. DSMTUNERS.com! Dsmtrader.com, Cars.com is how I found my laser. It searches newspaper adds. I was also using everything you are.

8. Just got my car from the paint shop for taking care of the rust. The bad spots are behind the front corner lights. Also all around the rear wheel well. My car does have a bit of rust around the chassis. Duluth uses a lot of salt. Eau Claire does not, so I just coated the bottom with rubberized under body coating.

9. Tranny is hard to say. Just make sure she shifts good in every gear (no grinding), stays in gear in every gear. I belive 75w-90 is what works good. However I'm going to drain mine soon and put in pennzoil syncro mesh. I have trouble with second gear until she is fully warm.

10. Its hard to see the IC because of the fog lights. Test drive, and make sure she pulls good when boost is in. Most likely you need to clean the IC to get the oil and sludge out. I had two small holes in the top of my IC where the UICP goes. I had to JB weld it.

 

[blight]

Thanz for the great reply man- that is exactly what i needed - btw my GF just added you on myspace you can ignor her if you want... just don't tell her i said that.... I love her but man she can anoy people i am extremely tolerant and all though. she doesn't biother me much but she tends to bother alot of other people....

Is there any cool dash kits for these first gens? And are there more body kits for this rather then just the drift, bomer, and drangon z? those are the ONLY ones i have been finding.... 3 for god's sake.... i like different for once. That is only reason i kinda like the honda scene i know it is ungodly ricy which makes me sick but i like the fact that you can kit your car out to the point of no return.

 

[BaddAssGst]

Do not run platinums or iridium plugs in a Dsm. Turbo motors tend to not like them very much. Get some NGK plugs and call it a day.

 

[blight]

but he has NGK iridium plugs- what plug out o the NGKs should i get then if that is not the ones i want.- *is confused*

 

[ddavisaf]

NGK BPR6ES spark plugs gapped at .028" for near stock cars.
NGK BPR7ES gapped at .028" ish for modified cars.

 

[ddavisaf]

1. I did iridium plugs, cause they are a little better then platinums. I got like an extra mpg, and a smoother idle. Not going to notice performance differences at this stage.

You've lost privileges to speak. A little better than platinums? So that makes them just crappy instead of straight up horrible?

For the ten thousandth time.

NGK BPR6ES gapped at .028" - Stockish
NGK BPR7ES gapped at .028" - Modified
NGK BPR8ES - Race or highly modified.

 

[funniegus]

You should do all the free mods,youre exhaust and some porting , open up the intake. Rewire youre fuel pump, check for boostleaks, clean youre intercooler. Make sure you do youre maintenance checks first. Plugs, wires, timing components, compression, fuel filter. Then practice launching that mofo and youll be there in no time.

 

[funniegus]

Dont forget to get a boostguage also and a mbc to cranck the boost. Some motor mount inserts will help out alot with wheel hop.

 

[blight]

You should do all the free mods,youre exhaust and some porting , open up the intake. Rewire youre fuel pump, check for boostleaks, clean youre intercooler. Make sure you do youre maintenance checks first. Plugs, wires, timing components, compression, fuel filter. Then practice launching that mofo and youll be there in no time.

As for the following what do you mean exactly
1. porting - port what? The head? The turbo? both? Do i really need to do either to make a 14 flat?
2. Rewire the fuel pump - what at all do you mean?
3. open up the intake- could you be more vague?
4. How do i check for boostleaks?
5. What timing compents? Do you mean the timing belt fot he engine itself? So just make sure the time of the pistons are dead on?
6. How do i check my compression? and can i/ should i get forged bottom end pistons and rods to run the boost higher? If so where do i get that really low compression ratio to run that crapload of psi?
7. I have a friend at the shop who can do turbo back exahaust mandrel bent of course what size should it be at 3 inches? same question for the down pipe - and should i have him amke a custom down pipe at 3"?

And last what is considered "stockish or modified or highly modified"? what area would i be in?- this is in relation to the plugs- of whihc do i get at a local store or from teh net if the net website please.

And in the future i plan for this to be in the low 11s so what was that place in cali for that tranny - because from my understanding these trannies blow pretty easy even with the synchromesh- and which tranny should i get from them for the 11s would you recomend?

one more thing- do guys get about 23 to the gallon or is the epa gov rating off? and do i need to run premium to run 14s? or do i always have to run premium in general? (ie for the turbo)
thank you all for the great help as of now-

 

[ddavisaf]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60008
How to run 12's in an almost stock DSM.

1. porting - port what? The head? The turbo? both? Do i really need to do either to make a 14 flat?

Port the exhaust manifold. The turbo exhaust inlet, the turbo exhaust outlet. Same for the intake side of the turbo. Port the o2 housing.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186525
http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-porting.html

2. Rewire the fuel pump - what at all do you mean?

http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-fuel.html
Look for Fuel Pump Re-Wire. I don't know what kind of car you're speaking about so I can't give you an exact link.

3. open up the intake- could you be more vague?

He means new air filter and a new hard intake pipe to replace the resrictive stock pipe.

4. How do i check for boostleaks?

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

6. How do i check my compression? and can i/ should i get forged bottom end pistons and rods to run the boost higher? If so where do i get that really low compression ratio to run that crapload of psi?

http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm

7. I have a friend at the shop who can do turbo back exahaust mandrel bent of course what size should it be at 3 inches? same question for the down pipe - and should i have him amke a custom down pipe at 3"?

If you're going to run 11's 3" all the way. If you're only concerned about 14's right now 2.5" down pipe to 3" cat back is fine.

And last what is considered "stockish or modified or highly modified"? what area would i be in?- this is in relation to the plugs- of whihc do i get at a local store or from teh net if the net website please.

Local autoparts stores carry them. Napa, Autozone, Checkers, Kragen, etc.
At the moment you fall in the Stockish. When you hit low 13's-12's. You're in the modified.
11's or better Race.

And in the future i plan for this to be in the low 11s so what was that place in cali for that tranny - because from my understanding these trannies blow pretty easy even with the synchromesh- and which tranny should i get from them for the 11s would you recomend?

www.teamripengineering.com OR
www.shepracing.com
These are the only two transmissions you need to know about. Trust me on this one.

one more thing- do guys get about 23 to the gallon or is the epa gov rating off? and do i need to run premium to run 14s? or do i always have to run premium in general? (ie for the turbo)

You have to run premium all the time. The better octane the better your car will be. Stay away from Ethenoyl.
I get about 23 miles per gallon on the highway. I get crap on the city since I am always rushed.

thank you all for the great help as of now-

You're welcome

 

[ddavisaf]

It's easier if you ask one question at a time or two - three at a time so I don't have a post that takes you 27 minutes to read.

 

[blight]

Oh sorry about the amount of questions at once but i have so many ideas ad questions and i don't get much a chance to get on the internet so i post as much as i can as you can see i am not posting in reply for like 4 days from you post.

And againm great info this is probably the most helpful forum i haev ever been on! Thanx again man you rock my face off!

 

[blight]

Ok here is another question- i have been comparing this car (ie talon ect.) to a turbo d16z6 in a CRX with a t3 fmic and turbo edit. Accoding to d-series.org they are all claming that they get about 27 or so to the gallon (with 17psi and running mid 13's) because of the right tuning to their turbo charged d series, and about 22 or so when they beat the hell out of it. So my question now is that possible to acheive in a DSM and how might i go about doing so?

(great links by the way- WAY helpful )

 

[ddavisaf]

Depending on which fuel maps your use it's possible to get extremely good gas mileage.
What those Honda guys didn't tell you was that in order for them to run 17 psi they have to do a full engine rebuild with alot of upgraded parts. If they say otherwise they're bullshitting you. I've personally taken off two turbo kits off of Honda's and did motor swaps for them because they ran 9 psi and blew their motors.
DSM's are built for boost. We take alot less money to get lower numbers than a Honda (ANY Honda for that matter) does. I get around 24 mpg on the highway in mine which makes me happy enough.
d series Honda's suck. I'll be more than happy to tell that to any turbo'd d series car out there.
I've went up against a couple of them, all turbo, and I've never lost. And I don't have very much into my car.
Cost efficiency wise, stick with a DSM for power. Honda is for gas mileage. If you want to throw more money than it's worth into a Honda, then you can make it fast. Especially a d series.

The only way in my opinion to do a Honda right is a B20 bottom end with a B18 head. ($2K right there....) And you'll need to do full internals. After THAT's done then you can turbo it. But we're already talking what, 6-7k worth of money that a DSM doesn't need.

P.S. I was just razzing you about the questions

 

[blight]

The reason i was looking into the honda was that i was starting out to get a MPG car- well if you know me i HATE with a passion slow cars so i thought hey it'll only cost me about a grand to throw a turbo at it- oh but weight (i knew about the bopttom end btw arias makes pistons for these with a 8:4.1 compression for 548 a set - the same price for 9.0:1 for the 4g63 turbo motor in the eclipes ect.) as far as my knowledge goes the lower compression the more boost you can run.

i despise and hate hondas i had a 89 honda accord and the tranny blew up on me- .... UG! so i looking at dsms well is a cry for help to get the hell away from them if possible. i am leaning more and more toward the dsm because i don't haev to build the hell out of the bottom end and they come with the turbo setup already. and IT IS NOT A HONDA (my hate from hondas comes from many years of growing up with their slow shityness of doom...) Although you are incorrect about the d series the d16a6 is not as bad as you may think IF i was looking for a 14 second daily it is not not a bad motor- but the best motor for a turbo from honda is the b16a from the del sol in japan it can get as low as 8.0:1 compression with the tight pistons and ring set.

now as far as the fuel maps. If it is possible to get better MPG than please do tell - what do i need to know about that and where can i learn more about that. What would obviously be ideal is to have a map for racing at a push buttom and a map for daily at push button- example: say i am driving normaly down the road home from work and this jackarse integra starts to rev it up and tries to look as mean as possible- i then push a button from my good gas milage to bad ( to give my engine to get the more fuel and air i need to kick this guys arse) then i can race and win against the lowly loser of hondadom. obviusly i don't know much about this because i don't even knwo what i just said is even possible i figure it has to do with the ecu. correct me if i am wrong.

also btw - at what point would i need to build the bottom end up in the dsm? flat 12? mid 11s? flat 11? ect?


Btw thanx for reminidng me about the bottom end i always forget about that for some reason....

 

[GSX6bolt]

If your looking to run 11s or 12s, its always a good idea to build up the bottom end.. Ill tell you from experience blowing a rod,bearing, or piston and rebuilding is not only a pain in the ass, its COSTLY as hell..