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11.7 @ 110 14B-Auto shakedown

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Nate Crisman

10+ Year Contributor
749
6
Nov 26, 2008
Blairstown, New_Jersey
YouTube - ‪DSMpartout Talon 14b - auto Shakedown 2011‬‏

I made a total of 6 runs last saturday, but only 2 of them clean:

Run 1: Being stupid, didn't have enough fuel to make it down the track. bog/missfire

Run 2: 1.554 launch, but it didn't shift into 2nd gear....just sat on rev limit until I let off and went to 3rd. 13.1@108

Run3: 11.833 @ 111.88 1.540 7.472 @ 91.67 First clean run. Not at all spectacularly quick, but not a bad shakedown for "guestimate tuning and settings"

Run4: 11.797 @ 110.88 1.488 7.397 @ 93.49 Backup run with only minor changes to fuel map. vac hose came off the bov nipple in 4th gear, hence slightly slower mph.

Run 5: tried to experiment with nitrous kit, as we figured there wasn't a ton of gain to be had in the heat with the 14b. Unfortunately, we didn't know about the bov hose yet. run was total fail.

Run 6: track announces lanes closing in 5min...we still didn't find the hose off and were theorizing the nitrous was jetted so rich it fouled plugs. second nitrous attemp same as first: fail.

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I'll post up a few pics of the car soon, as well as a current mod list.
 

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nice work... what all is done to the 14b to achieve these types of numbers?

Here's the mod list:
dsmpartout.com » Modifications

The car weighs, by my guestimate, about 2700 with driver. LarryKoren has a fairly similarly gutted auto 1g that is in the mid 24xx range without driver. I'v got a little more extreme weight loss, but also have a rollbar which likely evens it out. Im 240lb + helmet/laptop/ect. 2700 should be ballpark.

The turbo itself is stock and untouched. I pulled it off a parts car somewhere along the way..it even has one dented/bent comp fin. hahaha 7cm turbine housing is the only "turbo" mod.
 
Nice work Nate.. Doing any changes before you hit the track again?

Planning to run again on friday with these changes:

new switches & mount plate for shifting the trans. That was my issue on Run#2...the switches I used are kinda "sticky" and it didn't make solid contact.

Purge kit added to the nitrous system and the nitrous jets upped a bit to make the overall n2o/fuel ratio more ballpark for E85. (I originally jetted the kit for 115hp on 50/50 methanol/E85 fuel, but Im still on straight E85 so it's WAY to rich)

Going to try out a new fuel: PowerMist "race" E85. It's their custom blend of a "200 proof" ethanol and a high octane gasoline. Im not sure if they are mixing it with leaded or unleaded racegas, but the guy says this stuff is awesome for octane compared to pump E85. Hopefully it will allow me to get more aggressive with the tune off nitrous as well as save my ass from any detonation with the nitrous on. It's supposed to be much higher oxygen content too and should pick up 1%+ power from that.

Adding 48lb of weight: full 3" exhaust. I have to run a full street exhaust on friday nights at the local track. sucks, but whatever. Running a tick slower is better than not running at all.

Im also going to try balancing my wheel/tire combo, as the car has a horrendous steering wheel shake up top. At least move the worst 2 to the rear. While the wheels are off Im going to lower the ride height a bit and take some slack out of the front limit straps and crank the rear shock compression up.

have some tidying up of wiring harnesses, and I want to make an aluminum plate to hold my laptop during a run (vs it flopping around on the floor getting beatup)

If I get time, I want to add a second map sensor to measure exhaust backpressure. I tapped the EGR port on the intake manifold, but didn't get a chance to wire up the sensor...that might be useable info to have. Also want to do typical compression and boost leak tests.
 
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Reading this with interest since building my own auto 1g race car. Might make the track this year with the 13g just for a few fun break in runs.
I have no clue what mine weighs haven't been to scale with it. Mine is gutted out pretty good with one corbeau race seat but still for now have factory center console,dash. Even still have working power windows, and locks. But no back bumper support,jm fab front bumper support, no air,cruise, abs, thinking to convert to manual steering as well. No sway bars and just 3 inch downpipe don't need full exhaust at our local tracks. Jm fab fuel cell as well and will be running jm fab intake and 2.4 from my 97 or 2.0 not sure yet. Currently have just stock 2.0 in there. Turbo will be going likely to my FP3065 off my 97 talon,fp exhaust manifold, fuel system is supra tt pump, sx reg, big lines and 1150s. Dsmlink will go to speed density of course. Bought comp engineering rollbar but not that impressed its not even notched. So lots of work to do on that one. Maybe should go chrome moly one custom and be done with it.
Shooting for 10 something with the fp 3065. Don't ever want to run under 10.0 too much trouble.
Might do bit more weight reduction as well at some point. cf hood but not sure they make them for the 91 talons? Maybe light hatch and some lightweight back glass. Didnt cut doors up yet either so guess can still do some more weight reduction but at certain point easier to just make more power.

You guys are lucky to have access to e85 only like three stations for it in my whole country. Why they were pushing flex fuel vehicles is beyond me if they were never going to support them.
 
looks like Im done racing for a while, after fixing the vac leak and driving the car back onto the trailer with hopes of running tonight, the engine felt like it had a dead miss. Pulled the plugs to do a comp test and found this on cyl #2 (all others are fine and comp test fine)

:notgood:

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Cyl #2 compression tests at 80psi cold, others are 150psi cold. (with wimpy lawnmower battery)

Im going to guess that spark plug porcelain does wonders for your valves & seats when getting munched up. Guess I'll be spending the afternoon and night pulling the head off instead of making passes.
:(


Im going to consider the next mod to do something with vacuum lines...maybe a single large line from the intake manifold to a distribution block and then to the auxillary stuff. Maybe do it with pushlock lines or something more reliable than rubber lines w/ plastic zip ties.

ust put nw plugs in, warmed it up. it still runs kinda "missfire" like at low rpm but it cleans up. made 165 on 1 3 4 made 100psi on #2. Im considering just saying "**** it" and taking it to the track tonight anyway...it has enough compression to run and it fires on all 4. Cyl #2 is just going to be weak for power. I have a second 2G head core here....maybe take it to machine shop and have it decked and cleaned up after doing some basic cleanup porting myself. Have it ready to swap in and do it over next weekend?


Fit Going to track anyway. weak cyl be damned.

I have the car on the trailer and durango loaded for the track, BUT, my crew chief gizmo is stuck on Long Island at work and can't get here till about 8:30pm. I have less than 1 gallon on E85, so tonight is shot. We are going to postpone till wednesday night.
 
Aftermath pics:

cyl head overall: notice HG leakage (carbon passage) on #3 and #2.
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closeup of Cyl head #2: spark plug breakage pounded into the quench area.
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Gasket head side:
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Gasket block side:
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Block:
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Ouch! What heat range plugs were you using? I've been able to get away with crazy cold plugs on e85. (not saying that was the cause of your issues) Br9es I believe? Have to double check.

I've been considering the pushlock connections on the race car. This site has them cheap.
Poweraire [ Over 500,000 Pneumatic Parts 1-(800) 526-7661 ] - Poweraire.com

On a side note I use a small zip tie around each of the nipples on my 16g car. Never had a line pop off and it sees 30+ psi A LOT. Also heard of people using a drop of super glue.

Good luck!
 
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I was running BR8ES plugs. In all my years of racing these cars, Iv never had a plug completely melt and the porcelain explode and eat the mechanicals. Especially on what was likely a 300whp at best setup. Im starting to wonder about the used injectors (FIC bluemax 1650's) and might just send them back to be checked while the head is at the machine shop. Maybe I had the injector in #2 that was weaker than the rest?

Thanks for the link...that's exactly the kind of fittings/hose I'm contemplating running. The hose that caused this BTW...didn't "fall off" it split down the seam.
 
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