Mech Addict said:

that’s a lot if work while waiting for a tranny. Any luck on that part?

Click to expand...

Yes I did end up finding one thankfully. A guy in the city decided to get out of the dsm game all together a s sold me the tranny out of his 93 gsx! Tcase too

Here is some more pics of the rear subframe work. It was a rusty peicer so decided to sand blast it all, fresh poly bushings, RTM upper lca and Volk lower lca. I also picked up a set of flat out suspension coilovers for 1g to replace the shitty gr2 with cut springs.

I took the rear end apart as I could see rust from under the bumper. Took the bumper to get sand blasted and gave it the rustoleum flat black rust pain lt treatment as the subframe. Some pics of rebuilding the tranny I bought.

Lots of broken bolts on the rear end. It took a while day to drill and tap for the new hardware.

Made some progress on the car will post pictures soon. This post is just to log steps I've done to troubleshoot injector #1 not firing.

-Resistor box shows 6.5 on all pins.
-12v constant to injector confirmed
-Continuity to signal pin on injector from ecu harness confirmed.
-Swapped to another known good ecu.
-Swapped injectors from 4, issue persists.
-Swapped entire injector set, issue persists.
-New spark plugs gapped to .028
-#1 spark plug dry

To do:
-Try spare CAS to confirm injector signal
-Check signal wire while spinning CAS
-Check Ecu is grounding signal

Spinning spare CAS with ignition ON caused number 1 injector to fire but still no combustion. Removed spark plug and looked down hole, piston was very wet, confirming injector is firing. Suspected no compression so decided to test
1-130
2-130
3-147
4-149
Not the greatest numbers but good enough to play with. Not sure what else to do here. Will swap out complete ignition system with one from used engine, but cannot confirm if it's good or not. Worth a try.

thebrownman1 said:

Made some progress on the car will post pictures soon. This post is just to log steps I've done to troubleshoot injector #1 not firing.

-Resistor box shows 6.5 on all pins.
-12v constant to injector confirmed
-Continuity to signal pin on injector from ecu harness confirmed.
-Swapped to another known good ecu.
-Swapped injectors from 4, issue persists.
-Swapped entire injector set, issue persists.
-New spark plugs gapped to .028
-#1 spark plug dry

To do:
-Try spare CAS to confirm injector signal
-Check signal wire while spinning CAS
-Check Ecu is grounding signal

Click to expand...

Correction on spark plug inspection here. It looked dry when I pulled it during this time, but as reported on previous post, injector is firing.

Found the issue. When I installed the intake manifold a year ago I must have missed some shop rag. When I shined a light down the injector hole I could see blue. Pulled the intake many and there were 3 blue rags stuffed into number 1 runner. Don't be like me, ya'll, check all your air passages before sealing them up.

Now that that's been resolved the car runs perfect. Washed it, installed leather interior, cleaned interior, painted some trim, set the ride height. I found a leak from the turbo oil feed from the head so I have new washers and a bolt coming in. I was giving it more torque to seal but I ended up twisting the bolt instead. DoH!

Degreased the cowl area and behind the head lights. Still need to get the bumper core cut to fit the FMIC.

Alignment is scheduled for a couple of weeks from now and then it goes to paint for some body rust repair, patching, and paint. You can tell the rear wheel well where the rusty part is.

Pile of trim:

A little interior shot before I washed it:

Been a couple of years since an update. Since then I've done a ton of work. Pics to come
- Rebuilt front subframe with poly bushings and new suspension hardware
-New Steering Rack
-FIC 1650cc hi-z
-BC Cams
-Top line lifters
-Built engine: Wiseco 1400HD, Howard Rods, ACL Bearings, BS delete
-FP Red
-Tial exWG recirced, Tial BOV
-Electronic Boost Control
-Aluminum radiator

It's been quite a battle to get to this point. I also powder coated the valve cover, new dipstick, upgraded all the vacuum lines and radiator hoses. I'll have to figure out a catch can setup. Installed a 90 ofh and will run an external cooler.

I'm almost done assembling the car and looking to get its first start this weekend.

I got the powertrain fully assembled, but not I am not getting any oil pressure so down the rabbit hole we go to try to solve this.

I did prime the oil pump when the motor was on the stand and did get oil pressure all the way to the head. After installing the motor, I wanted to "prime" it again by taking the spark plugs out and disabling the fuel pump. My oil pressure gauge read 0 during cranking the hole time. Nothing has changed since it was on the stand so I am at a loss. Before I took things I apart, I followed the AEM troubleshooting guide to test the sender. It tested fine.

I then disconnected the sensor from my pressure "tree" and it was dry. After that I took the oil filter out, it was also dry. Because oil isnt making its way to the oil filter, that would mean that its likely the relief was stuck open.

I decided to investigate further. I pulled the oil pan to check if the oil pump was really pulling in oil. Maybe the pick up tube gasket was broken or it was loose and oil was getting past it. When I pulled it, I could see the pick up holding oil.

The pick up tube gasket was not broken and the tube was not loose.


Now we know the oil pump is indeed pulling oil. While I was in here, I replaced the pick up tube with a 2g tube since it doesnt have a bracket.
I then pulled the relief and it was closed. I made sure not to port the valve too much. I have seen examples here where it was ported too much.


I made sure to hit it with a deburring too on both sides to make it smooth for the piston to slide in and out. From what I can tell, everything is fine. When I pulled the piston out, the oil in the pickup tube fell out since it lost the vacuum.
No we know its not the relief port. Its a 90 OFH btw. This is where I am stumped. The path from the oil relief leads into the oil filter, but I am not seeing oil there. I am not sure what is going on here. I do remember when I was installing the motor, I looped the oil filter ports together and the hose got kinked on its way in. Could that have introduced air bubble thats preventing the oil from moving further? I am at a loss.

I have reassembled everything again and will give it another go tomorrow. Just want the pookie to dry before I put oil in it again.

I stuck the borescope into the relief bore, it looks extra clean. I also stuck the scope up the pick up to see if there was any physical damage but the gears look perfect. Last thing I did was stick the scope into the oil port where the oil filter goes and the passage way is very clean and shiny.



On the left is a piston and spring from an old 93 ofh. On the right is the piston and stpring that is in the car.

Other things I checked:
- BS bearings are flipped to cover the ports where a BS would be
-Checked that the oil squirters are tight and seated correctly.

While this doesnt tell us much about failure to get oil to the oil filter, it was a good idea to check while the oil pan was out.

I've been thinking about the steps I took from when I primed it on the stand to when I did the first crank and these are a few thoughts.
1. After I primed it with the drill, I didn't really like how the 90 fitting that Im using didnt really go all the way in so it made me a bit nervous about it breaking off. I took the fitting off and started tapping the the threads further into the housing. I didn't want to get shavings into the oil stream and in an abundance of caution, I took the oil filter off and shoved a rag into the oil filter pipe and the galley from the oil pump. I made sure to clean off the inside of the housing and even used a vacuum to pull any stray shavings out of there. I replaced the oil filter with a brand new one and moved on.
2. During installtion, the looped oil cooler lines kinked on the way in. The lines hit the frame rail and kinked upwards. I inspected the hose and it seems fine.