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98' Blueberry 🫐

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Alrighty so got both a bad blown up transmission with about 95% of the internals still intact so I will be saving it.

Doing a video on this one. I might be the first to have one recorded for the FWD transmission

Also popped open my own to find out what’s up with mine. Note I did not have any engagement issues or grinding on any gears. So this will be mainly an input shaft seal and put it all together.

I’m also doing a XTD stage 2 clutch $250 for the whole kit is not bad. I had some good shifts with XTD. But yet I don’t launch the car only street driving

Here are some pics of them. I’m waiting on the parts to arrive so we can put it all back!
 

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Brembos finished!

My evo brembos are ready to be installed. Had to paint strip and sand blast to get all the layers of different color paints on the calipers LOL

I had built this DIY powder coating unit from a 25¢ bbq grill. I added a heating element, with some heat insulation. It holds a solid 400°. Greatest thing is the space is able to do medium size projects like valve covers.


the driver side rear had some issues with a stripped threads easy fix. All other threads are good. Seals were also in good condition.

The during the bleeding process the boot on the outer passenger piston seal gave out. Replaced with the old one with no signs of leaks it was in good condition to begin with.

The color I chose goes well with the themes I had going on. It’s prismatic powders candy purple, I used an epoxy flake to make it all sparkly then clear coated.

With the brembos done, the front will bolt up nicely, need to cut the heat shields and have proper bolts to line it up

• Future reference •

Front caliper bracket mounting bolts:
M12x1.75+35

Rear caliper bracket mounting bolts:
M10x1.50 +20 (+3mm max clearance!)

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6/26/26

Well the time has come for this engine to come out. But I did not expect it to be 15,000 miles later LOL

I first noticed a smoking issue through the exhaust, I didn’t really look into it until the smoking became more and more in everyday driving.

When I first built this engine. I was intending to be on the higher boost levels, but it was pretty much stock since it started. IT was my first build. I didn’t check compression or leak down on this motor.

6 bolt head with 1g rods, aftermarket evergreen pistons and rings. Yes I did check on the block and running standard size pistons would work all within specs.

The only thing in question are: the head, and rings.

Rings are happens to .38mm top rings and 0.40mm second rings. The oil control rings are untouched too.

None of the specs on this motor besides mentioned are not abnormal. The only way oil is burning is through valve steam seals, guides, or rings. IT is oil since all inejctors are firiing and there is no change in idle on cylinder 3 spark wire .

We then conducted a comp test both wet and dry:
140 psi lowest value on dry test
169 psi highest on wet

Other cyl leakage results:
lowest was 12% on cylinder
Highest was 70% on cylinder 2

Cylinder 2 also has the most amount of oil deposits on the top of the plug. No oil was leaking on top of the plug
coolant Is no bubbles
No air escaping the next cylinder
No air escaping intake or exhaust
But plenty of air through the oil fill cap and dipstick tube

Doing the leak down test confirms that we have ring issues
So this concludes to a worn or damaged Piston rings.

I wanted a drop in motor. The better the condition is nice. I didn’t really have the use for racing the car right now, it’s more of a street car.

We them picked up a 7 bolt 4g63t short lock without accessories.

Here are the pics of a short block without accessories for $300

Leak down came clear, no air past the rings. Partial air through the intake and exhaust. This motor has 131,000 miles. Perfect used engine.

Going to perform a timing belt and keeping the balance shafts. To see how far i can get LOL of course the rear main and flywheel clutch kit for the 7 bolt.

Well update when when have the engine all out!!
 

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