A rebuild never hurts anything but the wallet..That way you can knock down the maintence while your at it...

A TUUUUUNNEEE! A proper tune will improve engine longevity, that along with maintenance.

Coming from experience, I would recommend a forged setup with megasquirt for tuning. Yes it is more costly, but you will be happy you chose it in the long run especially when the boost bug kicks in.

I did a typical 8lb build on stock internals and ended up cracking a ringland, and basically ruining the whole setup I had. If you plan on keeping the internals stock, make sure you have a good fuel system, I can't stress that enough.

Dont start it

I dont plan on keeping the internals stock but I want to know what I really NEED to make this last. The whole engine will be rebuilt with less than 10,000 miles on it when I turbo it, but what do I need? I know once I feel boost that Im going to want to crank it up so if I end up wanting to run at 16psi or so would I need stronger pistons? aftermarket cams, timing belt etc.? Also I dont really understand the whole tuning thing. From what I understand megasquirt is a tuning software for the 420a engines right? Do I have any other options? Is there anywhere on here like another thread or something that can get me started with tuning?

Being not too overly aggreesive while driving, proper maintence intervals Castrol GTX motor oil, lucus and some elbow grease are all you need

2GEffect6 said:

I dont plan on keeping the internals stock but I want to know what I really NEED to make this last. The whole engine will be rebuilt with less than 10,000 miles on it when I turbo it, but what do I need? I know once I feel boost that Im going to want to crank it up so if I end up wanting to run at 16psi or so would I need stronger pistons? aftermarket cams, timing belt etc.? Also I dont really understand the whole tuning thing. From what I understand megasquirt is a tuning software for the 420a engines right? Do I have any other options? Is there anywhere on here like another thread or something that can get me started with tuning?

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If you plan to ever run anything over 8-10psi yes you will need forged rods and pistons, that's been said before. And that much on a stock motor is risking your motor regardless without a very nice tune.

Stock timing components are fine, as long as they have been redone recently, you absolutely need something to tune with. If you spend a decent amount of money anywhere on your setup, that is where it needs to be.

Cams are your choice, they dont need to be changed out, and you can upgrade later if you want. Here is a partial break down of what you need to turbo.

Turbo
Turbo manifold
Downpipe
Wastegate
Intercooler, piping and couplers
oil feed and drain lines
Something to tune with
Boost gauge
Wideband O2 gauge and sensor
Fuel pump
AFPR

There is more but thats a pretty good list to get you started.

Nearly everything on the list is $100 or more, and everything on the list is needed to make it last. So prepare to save your pennies. And after its turbo'd since it sounds like you dont know what Megasquirt etc are, you need to find a shop to tune it for you.

Megasquirt by the way is a stand alone fuel management that can be configured for multiple kinds of cars.

to run 16 psi? you'll need a forged piston/rod combo. As far as cams, do you need them? no. They will just help you get more out of your setup.

For tuning I recommended megasquirt because it is the most widely used( and cheapest I've seen) solution that can be used as a piggyback system or full standalone. There are other options, but most people on this board use megasquirt.

Do some reading in the 420 turbo conversion section, you'll find all the info you need.

Here is a parts list for the 8lb build I helped Adam with http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-turbo-conversion/366603-end-all-parts-list-go-turbo.html

For tuning start your reading here. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-engine-management/374659-megasquirt-links-new.html

Leonthefaded said:

Being not too overly aggreesive while driving, proper maintence intervals Castrol GTX motor oil, lucus and some elbow grease are all you need

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Have you ever tubo'd anything? Driven a modified car?

A pimped out motor oil and a $10+ bottle of additive is not going to stop the car from exploding. There absolutely needs to be proper tuning done or it will not last. Period.

Im going to put this turbo kit together slowly so thanks for the list and as far as tuning I do not want to take it to a shop and I don't want to spend the money on taking it to a shop, so I will do like I do with everything else and learn it and perfect it. I think with this information ill be able to put this together and make it last with no problem the hardest part now will be spending the money.

Forged internals + a Solid tune + quality gas is generally the ticket to know blowing your engine to pieces.

Boostinsideways said:

Forged internals + a Solid tune + quality gas is generally the ticket to know blowing your engine to pieces.

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Is there anything else forged other than rods and pistons that can get?

91stocker said:

Dont start it

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or dont turbo it...

But a good tune with no knock and conservative timing sould last a while.


Been running 16+ psi on my 4g64 for about 15k miles no problem another guy near me been runing 19+ psi for a while also.

I know its not a 420 block so if anything keep boost under 12 pounds with a good tune and run it rich in the 10 or 11.5 afr and you should be good.

I've been doing alittle research have you thought of a ESC? Thomas knight makes an electric supercharger which runs off its own battery bank, that can put down some nice numbers. They also have a belt driven one, but I cannot see a belt driver supercharger doing too well in out limited engine bay space.

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Since you're going low boost just use Sealed Power pistons on sstock rods and all new bearings and ARP bolts. The neon guys run that setup with huge success.

im not liking this neon guys talk haha im somewhat offended i hate neons

2GEffect6 said:

im not liking this neon guys talk haha im somewhat offended i hate neons

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COOLSTORYBRO way to contribute to the thread. Tried and true on low boost and all motor.


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2GEffect6 said:

im not liking this neon guys talk haha im somewhat offended i hate neons

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Then why'd ya buy one?

Chrysler built car with Chrysler built 420a, sounds like a neon to me.

But id imagine a good oem rebuild with arp hardware would be fine for your goals.

91stocker said:

Then why'd ya buy one?

Chrysler built car with Chrysler built 420a, sounds like a neon to me.

But id imagine a good oem rebuild with arp hardware would be fine for your goals.

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Because when I bought it I couldnt find a cheap enough turbo model and at that time I did t really know much about performance so I didnt care that much and I just wanted an eclipse so I found one cheap enough and bought it. I like the 420a just not neons and I'd rather turbo a non turbo than just upgrade a turbo model I feel more accomplished haha

From my exsperience in building my boosted 420a along with a small group of people in my town that did, our stock motors wouldn't last. You will end up spending some money, and I mean just start with building a motor anyways. I would not waste getting turbo setup until you dial in your motor, no point having all that power if you have melted pistons. You might be more into this car then it would to get a 4g63T, I have been runing mine stock motor 100,000 miles and beat the crap out of it and it still hasnt blow. That is also due to maintanance. So choose your path wisley do the math see what outcome would be better.

If you're gonna boost, forged rods and pistons and MUST have ARP head-studs and probably mains.

the things you NEED to be reliable:

forged pistons
forged rods
MLS headgasket
upgraded fuel pump
upgraded injectors
upgraded fuel lines (return needed)
FPR
a tuning solution
a good tune
an intercooler
a narrow band AFR (wideband with datalogging preferred)
(and all the things to make a turbo system work)

i really think the 8 injector setup is the way to go. it's easier and keeps non-boost drivability to factory spec.
and hahns portfueler is much less complicated then megasquirt for someone who admits to having no tuning experience.