Your 2 cents

[asephoner]

Okay so I did what every body told me to do and I found out that my engine is knocking okay what do you guys think I do plan on uping the power very slowly like a part at a time and really didn't want to do any internal stuff for a long while. I was kinda wanting to do as many bolt ons as humanly possible to reach that well know 400hp mark or as close as I can get without killing it and maybe by the time I get there drop in a 6 as far as stability is concerned.

So yeah I would like to fix my issue and return my car back to stock (internally) and bolt on the power from there. "I won't build up a 7bolt just so you know " However I don't have a problem with using the 7bolt head on 6bolt bottom end.

Tell what you think.

 

[Slapnut]

Any knock sound is bad, but you need to pin-point it. Is it on the top half of the engine or the bottom? If it is on the top half, it just might be the rockers out of adjustment, or worst case a bent valve. On the bottom half it is more than likely a rod knock, which means rebuilding the bottom end. Regardless, you should first find the area that is affected and go from there. It would be wiser to fix the internals before adding any extra HP bolt-ons. If you do not fix the engine before adding bolt-ons, you are going to cause more sever damage in the long run.

 

[srGS-t]

yeah man bolting up more hp is a bad idea if u have a knock.....i blew my turbo soo i put a big t-28 on it and a week later a rod bearing blew and there went the bottom end....if i had gone with stock i would have been ok for a lil longer, but u need to check it out. good luck and hope its a rocker or a valve.

 

[asephoner]

Any knock sound is bad, but you need to pin-point it. Is it on the top half of the engine or the bottom? If it is on the top half, it just might be the rockers out of adjustment, or worst case a bent valve. On the bottom half it is more than likely a rod knock, which means rebuilding the bottom end. Regardless, you should first find the area that is affected and go from there. It would be wiser to fix the internals before adding any extra HP bolt-ons. If you do not fix the engine before adding bolt-ons, you are going to cause more sever damage in the long run.

I must have confused you guys sorry.
What I mean is I plan on fixing the problem (rod knock by the way) before any upgrades.
I want your opinion, if i should use my head and put in a six bolt bottom, or should I just get my 7 bolt fixed and just continue adding bolt ons. Or being the big one just do a 6bolt drop and call it a day.

Really curious as to what I can work with and what the easiest and best route is. Thanks

 

[TRBOBLU]

Id go 6 bolt and mod it from there. The reason I got a 6 bolt was because my car spun 2 rod bearings. You can use the 2g head but Id go with the 1g head if I were you. Im very weary of building 2g 7 bolts because it seems like there are so many problems with them. Im sure someone is gonna bash me for talking bad about a 7 bolt and how only .00002% walk blah blah blah. Thats my .02

 

[RobSchoenwald]

Your idea of just putting bolt ons isnt a bad idea. Then once you have all the bolt ons that you want on there then eventually you could build up your internals and be set, but i also wouldnt go too nuts on the turbo, just keep it somewhat reasonable with the stock internals. I plan on using my 7 bolt and building her into a stroker with my buddy that is going to school in wyotech...So take any route you want....There is a way for anything you could think of!
thanks
-Rob

 

[asephoner]

well is there any real difference in the 1g head and 2g head as far as performance and reliabilty?
I like the idea of using a six bolt bottom end and 2g head, at least I can smog it without any issues.

If I go for a block at a yard what am I looking for or better put what would be a good buy?

 

[92awddsm]

6 bolt with a 2g head has been proven to work well. I would not worry about doing it at all. And the stock 6 bolt has been proven to hold the power you plan to reach. I personally have a stock 6 bolt bottom end with only arp rod bolts and it works very well. I also run a 60-1 at 26 psi on pump and have yet to run more than 30 psi on race gas. As soon as I get some tires that have traction, I will see how much boost the 6 bolt shortblock can handle

The life of the motor is all in the tuning. Most people dont reach the limits of the shortblock before they
1) feel they need a built shortblock
2) their tuning was under par and caused catostophic failure

 

[Ultimatedsm]

I have seen upwards of 500WHP on the stock 6 bolt bottom end. They don't call them big rod engines for nothing you know . 2g head on a 6 bolt will give you little more low end torque however, you will be losing some top-end power compared to a 1G head due to larger ports. I noticed 7 bolts seem to spin rod bearings a lot more often then the 6 bolt. My 7 bolt went due to a spun rod bearing, however, it never had issues with crankwalk with even 76,000 miles on it. I noticed the limit of the 7 bolt is around 430WHP after that I had a few friends just spinning rod bearings, maybe it was a bad tune, however, once my friend put in a 6 bolt, that wasn't an issue anymore odd I guess. Anyway, its all about tuning like 92awddsm said, but to run over 23 psi you MUST get some ARP rod bolts and head bolts!

 

[asephoner]

As far as installing the 6bolt on a 2g head any mods or is it straight forward?

is there a link that I have over looked more than happy to read it.

Thanks for all your 2cents