Won't Start

[WIDSM]

I parked the car with it driving, now today I go to start it, and it just cranks, but won't turn over WTF. I'm getting fuel pressure, and it cranks fine, I doubt it would be from low compression as it drove fine before. So that leaves no spark. I briefly checked over the car checked fuses and made sure everything was plugged in. It was late and dark so I couldn't really see or do much. I looked around in the forums and it seems like it could be the cas. I don't drive the car much, it's been sitting for about a week or two, but I've never had any problems with the car not starting. Anyone have any experiences of your car just not starting no day without touching it? Also I replaced the plugs and wires just a few miles ago. Any thoughts on the situation and what I should check first would be great. I guess this is a sign I should just tear it apart and put my new head on.

 

[jjgrizz73]

why dont you pull a plug wire, stick a screwdriver or something like that up inside the boot and have someone look for a spark(or you can pull the whole plug and watch for a spark with the plug out of the cylinder, that way you can check for fuel in the cylinders also), if it has spark then the fuel isnt getting into your cylinders even though you have fuel pressure your injectors may not be firing.

 

[WIDSM]

That's true I might not actually be getting fuel. I'll pull a plug tomorrow and check for spark and fuel in the cylinder. Any other suggestions anyone?

 

[flawlessTSI]

is it cold outside?
my car wouldent start in the cold it was the coolant temp sensor, i also thoght it was the cas.

check that out and cleen the plugs because mine were coverd in gas from turning it over so much.

good luck

mike.

 

[VTEC_THIS]

Definitely check your CAS, it controls spark and fuel.

Also, on a 1g if you have a bad coolant temp sensor it doesn't matter if it's cold out your car wont start period.

 

[WIDSM]

I'll check the wires on the coolant temp sensor, they always get corroded and hard.

 

[Hiitman]

if you have a bad coolant temp sensor it doesn't matter if it's cold out your car wont start period.

+1
I got my 2g to start after alot of cranking and feathering the throttle. Once it was running it idled like crap and was extremely rich. The CTS tells the ecu how cold the motor is and if it's not functioning or disconnected it will assume the motor is extremely cold and will dump an un-managable ammount of fuel.

 

[GSeX02]

Whats the outside temp?

 

[WIDSM]

The temp is is the low 30s at night but not freezing I don't think. I'm in Washington not WI like it says. I went to my car today with my tools all ready to try and figure it out, and it started right up. It was very rich at first, but that's most likely from cranking it last night. I drove it a little bit today. Could it have just been from the cold last night that it didn't start? I mean I used to drive this thing in the dead of winter in WI and it get's a lot colder there. I'm stumped as to the reason, but relieved that it still runs.

 

[GSeX02]

do you have a wideband?

 

[WIDSM]

Ok so I just went out to my car to go run a few erends and the car started idled for about 2 minutes and when I went to pull off it just died. Now it won't start back up. Any yes I have a wideband but it's not hooked up yet. Ya a lot of good that's doing me. It's a nice day out today so I know it's not because of the cold weather. I'm guessing it's a loose connection somewhere maybe? Any more thoughts?

Also when the key is on all the dashlights are on, but when I crank it the oil light flashes/flickers. I never noticed it until now and it may have always done that so I'm not sure, just trying to give as much info as possible.

 

[soulweaver]

I have a laser and I had the same problem. The car started Idled and then died and I never got it to start. My problem was my computer. People from this site helped me diagnose my problem (thanks to all). What i would do is take the computer out and check for burns. Of course, make sure your getting Compression, fuel, and Spark before checking your computer.

 

[Hiitman]

Did you check the cts? If the wires are corroded the connection could intermittently go out.

 

[WIDSM]

ok, so I just went and checked again, and no start. However I found that the one wire sensor coming off the t-stat housing is loose. I've replaced that wire and connector before. I don't remember what that sensor was for. I thought you could remove that for installing a coolant temp gauge if you wanted. I disconnected and checked all of my connection and when I pulled that one off I noticed the wire almost pulled out. I guess that would explain it running for 2 minutes and dieing randomly? Or possibly the ecu maybe like was mentioned before.

 

[WIDSM]

SO I changed the connector on the loose wire and it still won't start. Now I'm really confused I checked all of my other connections and they look good. I checked my oil and it was pretty low, I'm going to add more, but I doubt that'll help any. I'm also going to try and make the fuel ratio richer and leaner maybe I can get it to start. ANY advice would be awesome guys.

 

[TOONAH]

What I would do is prove that you are getting a spark to #1 @ about TDC by using a timing light while you crank it over. If the timing light does not strobe then you have a no spark situation. Trouble shoot it back to the coil pack and if necessary to the ignitor module and then to the ECU. Use a DVM to make sure you are getting 12V to the hot side of the ignition coils while the ignition key is on. It is essential to have an oscilloscope though to check the ECU signal to the transistor/igniter power module. You would be looking for a 5-12V pulse about 3-5 ms in duration. This turns the transistor on allowing the primary side of the ignition coil to charge up. I always check for gas by either pulling a spark plug or sniffing like a mad dog at the exhaust pipe. If you have fuel and spark and no run condition, compression test each cylinder. No way of testing a CAS or CPS without a scope or swapping it with a known good one. As the guys said. Good compression, good spark and gas equals run time. If not your base timing could be off by more than five degrees. Good luck.

 

[WIDSM]

I replaced the cts and now the car's battery is to dead to turn the car over. It's showing just 12v and only 9v when cranking so now that's my problem. It should start with a jump but we'll see I guess.

 

[WIDSM]

Today I had a friend try and jump me, but still nothing. That would leave just the ecu and the cas then to be bad right?

 

[WIDSM]

I just pulled plugs 1 and 4 and the plugs and pistons were dry, no fuel.

 

[WIDSM]

I took the cas out and turned the key and spun the cas. The injectors didn't fire, and neither did the plugs. So that's 100% a bad cas right? I'm really running out of time, options, and hair! This thing is bringing me to wits end I really hope this is it, I've checked everything now I think.

 

[turbogst98]

you need to check
coil pack
power transistor
crank postion sensor
do a diagnostic test

 

[Bud92gsx]

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