Wideband install - CEL for heater circuit

[Spades]

I am about to install my Innovate MTX-L wideband. I plan to use the O2 simulation. If i disconnect the OEM O2 sensor and put the wideband in its place, wouldnt that trigger a CEL for the heater circuit?

 

[Jesse2012]

Yea it will, you'll need to turn off the code in ecmlink and disable it

 

[Spades]

I dont have ECMlink. I did some reading up and found on a Mazda forum that they install a 10W 30-ohm resistor in the heater circuit.

 

[Jesse2012]

I dont have ECMlink. I did some reading up and found on a Mazda forum that they install a 10W 30-ohm resistor in the heater circuit.

How are you going to use narrowband simulation then?

 

[miguelmcv]

Here we go boss.


Check to see if you have the wiring correct as it shows in the tech article.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...21002-innovate-lc-1-installation-options.html

 

[Spades]

How are you going to use narrowband simulation then?

The MTX narrowband sim brown wire fed to where the OEM o2 signal wire was connected to (ECU Pin 76) Everything else gets wired normal


miguelmcv - The LC-1 wires are not the same as the MTX-L wiring
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/MTX-L_Manual_1.1.pdf

the wiring is not my concern, its the CEL from not having a heater in place when the OEM sensor is replaced by the wideband, and therefore the heater circuit is left open.

 

[Jesse2012]

The MTX narrowband sim brown wire fed to where the OEM o2 signal wire was connected to (ECU Pin 76) Everything else gets wired normal


miguelmcv - The LC-1 wires are not the same as the MTX-L wiring
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/MTX-L_Manual_1.1.pdf

the wiring is not my concern, its the CEL from not having a heater in place when the OEM sensor is replaced by the wideband, and therefore the heater circuit is left open.

I know how it works, I use it. I didn't realize you could do it without ecmlink to read the widebands narrowband signal. Learn something new everyday I guess

 

[snowborder714]

If you use ECMlink to do the simulation, it only requires you to input the wideband signal (0-5v) to the ECU and then does stuff in the back end to simulate a narrowband signal (0-1v).

Some widebands come with dual outputs - wideband and narrowband signals. The wideband's controller does the calculations necessary to produce the narrowband signal so it's all self contained in the wideband unit. You must input the narrowband signal to the appropriate ECU input if you replace your factory narrowband sensor and do not have ECMlink.

 

[Spades]

Some widebands come with dual outputs - wideband and narrowband signals.

Yes, and simulatneously too which is the exact reason i chose innovate. AEM can do both but not simultaneously.

So is the 30ohm resistor a valid solution to satisfy the heater circuit to not get a CEL?

 

[97GSTAUTO]

Yes it is. I used the same solution in my GST when I was using the Zeitronix WBO2. I The resistors get warm so I bought the small aluminium "project box" from radio shack to help dissipate the heat.

 

[Spades]

Awesome! And thanks for the "project box" idea, i was just going to let the resistor hang inline in free air with a loose thermal sleeve.

 

[97GSTAUTO]

I dont have ECMlink. I did some reading up and found on a Mazda forum that they install a 10W 30-ohm resistor in the heater circuit.

a single 10 watt resistor will not be enough. Either use 3 10 watt resistors together or buy a 30 watt resistor. This one will be perfect and will not require a project box since it has its own heat sink.
RH05030R00FE02 Vishay / Dale | Mouser

 

[Spades]

Hmm, using ohms law i get:

14V / 30 ohms = .467 amps
14V x .467 amps = 6.53 watts

I was also thinking of just using a 6W light bulb
6W bulb should equal ~33ohms

 

[97GSTAUTO]

ahh touche. That would be correct. I didnt even think about doing the math. Because I used 3 resistors. I used 3 30ohm 10w resistors in parallel which increased current draw which inturn the total wattage would increase to 19.6 watts which would be on the warm side. Sorry, I didnt start fixing amps until after I sold my DSM. I wouldnt go the light bulb route for a few reasons. 1. It may be annoying at night. 2. Resistance of the bulb would vary depending on the type of bulb used. 3. Who knows how the ecu is going to react with the bulb showing little resistance initially and then showing alot of resistance when the bulb is lit. Which the OEM heating circuit would show the same reaction but is it within the same parameters so it would not cause a cel.

 

[idt512]

Ill be buying an LC-1 or LC-2 wideband soon and im interested in this as well. How about using the heater wires to power up the wideband itself?