Talonious
10+ Year Contributor
- 52
- 2
- Oct 23, 2010
-
Mason,
Ohio
Well, in a previous thread I stated that my car was running very rich at idle and cruise. I would see around 13.6 at idle and sometimes as low as 12.4 while cruising.
A simple log showed my front o2 sensor was NOT cycling correctly. Ok, so I went to Advanced Auto and bought a OE fit Bosch 4-wire and it had the length and connector all their so it was a simple replacement.
Drove around for a day at 14.7 idle, 15.2 cruise. Then out of nowhere after 5-10 mins of driving I look at the wideband and it's showing 13.4 while cruising. Logged the car and of course it's not working anymore.
Replaced the sensor with warranty, Drove around for another day at perfect trims, and then out of nowhere again, my car is idling at 13.4 and idling at 1100 rpms, and crusing at 12.6...???!
I have been trying to combat this issue with this car ever since I bought it.
I have a 6-bolt/7-bolt head motor, small 16g, Punishment Intercooler, Wally 190, 1G CAS, punishment open dump o2, punishment DP, Thermal RD cat-back and everything else including motor is either stock, or rebuilt with OEM parts.
Boost leaked tested at 25psi held strong
Replaced coolant temp sensor and switch with OEM
TPS was set, while setting base timing at 5* BTDC. Biss was also set at this time.
Car idles normal at 8* timing which FSM states is normal.
Coolant temp at idle in my logs was @ 190
Before I replaced the o2 i threw a bank 1 fuel trim malfunction and an IAC malfunction.
I thought my fpr was being over-run but being that a new o2 sensor fixed my car for 20 mins that's out of question.
Whats causing my car to kill these o2 sensors?? Is my Ecu going out, or do i need a grounding strap on my exhaust that I dont have atm...
After the o2 sensor was replaced my idle was 750 rpms, and idle was at 14.7 according to the AEM Uego which is exactly 36" downstream, now my idle is back where I started at 800, jumping slowly while parked to 1100, and idle afr is 13.4/ cruise is 12.4, and my scanner shows my o2 voltage is nothing.
If anyone has any ideas, feel free!
A simple log showed my front o2 sensor was NOT cycling correctly. Ok, so I went to Advanced Auto and bought a OE fit Bosch 4-wire and it had the length and connector all their so it was a simple replacement.
Drove around for a day at 14.7 idle, 15.2 cruise. Then out of nowhere after 5-10 mins of driving I look at the wideband and it's showing 13.4 while cruising. Logged the car and of course it's not working anymore.
Replaced the sensor with warranty, Drove around for another day at perfect trims, and then out of nowhere again, my car is idling at 13.4 and idling at 1100 rpms, and crusing at 12.6...???!
I have been trying to combat this issue with this car ever since I bought it.
I have a 6-bolt/7-bolt head motor, small 16g, Punishment Intercooler, Wally 190, 1G CAS, punishment open dump o2, punishment DP, Thermal RD cat-back and everything else including motor is either stock, or rebuilt with OEM parts.
Boost leaked tested at 25psi held strong
Replaced coolant temp sensor and switch with OEM
TPS was set, while setting base timing at 5* BTDC. Biss was also set at this time.
Car idles normal at 8* timing which FSM states is normal.
Coolant temp at idle in my logs was @ 190
Before I replaced the o2 i threw a bank 1 fuel trim malfunction and an IAC malfunction.
I thought my fpr was being over-run but being that a new o2 sensor fixed my car for 20 mins that's out of question.
Whats causing my car to kill these o2 sensors?? Is my Ecu going out, or do i need a grounding strap on my exhaust that I dont have atm...
After the o2 sensor was replaced my idle was 750 rpms, and idle was at 14.7 according to the AEM Uego which is exactly 36" downstream, now my idle is back where I started at 800, jumping slowly while parked to 1100, and idle afr is 13.4/ cruise is 12.4, and my scanner shows my o2 voltage is nothing.

If anyone has any ideas, feel free!