2G What is all needed to Paint from start to finish?

[PrimerPLus]

So I want to paint my car. I will be redoing the same color Barcelona Red Pearl, Paint Code P75
The hood is black but want to make it the same color as the rest of the car.

I have brand new front bumper that is plastic generic from JC Whitney.
I have used but in good condition 3 piece per side side skirts. (mine are damaged and missing pieces.)

So I was hoping to get a list of everything that I would need to do this paint job, and a general guide on how to do the painting, prep-work etc.
How do I start all the way to finishing.
Currently I have:

• Decent Air compressor
• Electric Sander
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046RDW3K - Campbell Hausfeld CHK005CCAV 34-Piece Gravity-Feed Spray Gun Kit
• Plastic Car port
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I want a paint that will look great, and last a few years hopefully.
I will paint the new bumper, sideskirts, and the wing off the car.
Would like to hit as much as possible including door jams and possibly under hood as much as possible without pulling motor.
Should I remove hood to paint it or leave on?

So I am pretty new to painting and would like to know everything that I need, what brands of materials, what specific paint, sand paper, can I use my electric sander, wet sand paper etc.
I want it to look good so I will take my time.
Temperature has been around 65-80F

Also my driver side door needs some work. It was hit with a big piece of plywood when it was pretty windy and smacked right into the door and dented it and cracked the paint. You can see in the pictures. Is the door fixable (as far as cost vs replacing).
I would like to hear from people who have knowledge, have done it etc. When suggesting what to use please include brand and what type so I know exactly what to look for.
Also for where to get the paint, I have Napa, O'Reilly, Advanced, and Car Quest. Don't know if Lowes or Home Depot do automotive paints.

Any other "guides" or videos that would help would be great too.
Here is some pictures of what the paint looks like as of right now.
Thanks everyone!

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[Justin Lauscher]

3M has alot of great products from masking tape to sand paper, to get a good finish you will need to use Base Clear. Where you spray your base as well as you can with NO runs. You can have runs in your clear because you will be wetsanding it anyway and you can sand them out.i f there isn't any imperfections you could just sand the whole car down 800 until it's completely flat,y you won't need any sort of primer unless you decide to use a body filler or you hit bare metal. It's really a pretty simple process. Just takes alot of time. IMO probably leave as much of the car together as possible when you spray it, if you do it panel by panel it won't be consistent and the color will more than likely look different from panel to panel. Just my $ .02

 

[miliman13]

You can always reference my build.

But cheap painters tape is fine
( dollar store).
I went down to 60 but if yours is mostly fine 320 400 600 800
Are decent numbers.

Get wax and grease remover

I highly recommend removing as much as possible. Allows for paint to wrap itself around the panels.


Play with your gun, spray yourself with water while adjusting the settings.
You don't want it to feel to wet to quick.
This helps believe it or not.

Filters are necessary.
Use measuring cups.
Each gun is different.
40-60 psi on average.
I got as low as 20psi for corners, since air bounce back in corners.

Get a inline water filter/eliminator.

Find a spare panel and practice.

 

[adrian2627]

I just got done repainting my car and this is what i used:

1. Wax grease remover
2. 1.5in tape, 1/2 in tape
3. body filler for body repair if needed
4. glazing putty for rock chips
5. 80 grit for body work
6. 180, 360, 500 grit papers
7. a good pneumatic DA sander not electric
8. masking paper and plastic to mask windows, wheels, etc
9. 2k sealer for your plastic bumper
10. 2k high build primer for body work
11. 1.4 nozzle gun for base and clear, 1.8 for primer
12. a sanding block to block body work
13. inline filters, water separator, and a 60 gallon compressor.

This is my material list, your mileage my vary. I went with viper red...sweet looking

 

[GST with PSI]

Biggest factors I've found that contribute to a good paint job:

1) Prep work:
A good paint job is all in the prep. If you get a panel perfectly straight, clean, and dry, you're nearly guaranteed a good end result. The more time you spend in prep, the better the end product will be.

2) Good equipment:
I'm a strong advocate for using a quality paint gun. Paint guns are one of those things where you get what you pay for. Quality paint guns have superior atomization and will lay a nice coat of paint even if an amateur is behind the gun shooting it. Others will tell you cheap guns work fine, and maybe so. But, you'll see a drastic difference between a nice gun and cheap one. I've used cheap guns, and I've used good ones. I'd be wary about anyone who tells you a cheap gun shoots/lays paint like a quality gun will...It won't, I guarantee it. Anyone who's done body work for real will confirm.

Second here, you need a compressor that will supply your gun with an adequate amount of air. When painting, volume is what really matters. Whenever possible, use 3/8" fittings and hose up to the gun regulator. Also, it's IMPERATIVE that your air supply is dry. Depending on the conditions and humidity wherever you're painting, you may need multiple driers and filters inline. Keep in mind, most filters/driers will restrict airflow/volume, so ensure you minimize that where you can.

3) Good paint
I've used a variety of paint products over the years. PPG hands down makes some of the highest quality stuff out there, but it's pricey and typically requires mixing of 2 or more additives before spraying. Lately, I've been using ready to spray paint products from Automotivetouchup.com, and for the money and convenience factor, their stuff is hard to beat. For some awesome tutorials, check out @ErikTande 's build thread. He's got some great information on spraying from start to finish. Basically, if you follow what he does step by step, you can't really go wrong: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/19...and-restore-to-400-whp.472418/#post-153362398

There are obviously many other considerations, but the ones I listed above cover the wave tops.

 

[ErikTande]

^^^ Yep, all that is spot on. I love Automotivetouchup's paint as well, it's great. I don't recommend the clearcoat they sell though (finish1), I'll be going with PPG or something higher end if I end up painting again.

Youtube has TONS of great tutorials as well, just do a quick search. I just did a video on repainting my back bumper, it's not going to teach you how to do it step by step but it's got some good procedural info in it though. Bumper Paint Tutorial Vid

 

[DarkApollo]

Awesome info! I am under taking the process of repainting my talon in the near future and you guys are always helpful with the resources and suppliers!

 

[eziomandude]

Does anyone know the paint code for the new chevy blue?

 

[RobertTheArchitect]

when sanding use guide coat and dura blocks, start with 600 and work your way up to 800 or even 1000 wet, block by hand using an X pattern. rent a spray booth that has downdraft venting and bake. make sure to follow the P-Chart for air pressure and volume, along with tip size, follow the P-Chart for mixing reducer and activators, follow P-chart for flash times.

when spraying start at the bottom rocker side on 1 side and spray non start from front to back using an 50% overlap moving up the car until you reach the middle of the car. than move to the other side and grab that wet edge up finish spraying down to the rocker.

3 coat base
2 coat clear minimum

if you can afford
5 coat base
4 coat clear