Wet or Dry for N/A? 2 differents stories

[diding1]

i have a 91 nt and have had extremely good luck i have ivetsed te money and gotten rods and pistons and insalled a direct port 150 shot and have made well over 30 hp on the dyno
jus be aware tha teh stc kfuel sysem crapsout on a 1g nt at about 250hp
happy juicing
and th bottle warmer does wonders for bottle preasure
and just for grins try puting your bottle in the deep freeze over night it allows te bottle to hold more but make sure you ask your refill guy first some places wont fill frozen bottles but ihas no adverse affects on the bottle it self

 

[Bd1000Eclipse]

my shop wont fill it unless the bottle is cold.

 

[na90dsm]

i plan on using a walbro 190lph fuel pump and 335cc hahn injectors with this setup. im gonna figure out what to do with the head and im set. i just gotta figure out how much to port the head.

 

[daltah]

what kind of times would i be running in a 99 auto rs eclipse with cai,exhaust,ngk plugs and wires and a 75 shot of nitrous.Also guesstimated hp.

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by NosLaser
For a naturally aspirated car, you want to run a dry kit. It's safer because you don't run the risk of fuel puddling, and it will also atomize better because the intake tract doesn't have to carry heavy liquid fuel along with air and nitrous. You'll get a nice cloud of air and nitrous, and a good mix in each cylinder.

Regards,

I really hate to disagree with you NOSLaser as I know you have alot of experience with nitrous however I have ran on my own cars, a Nos 5123, a NX single nozzle and a NX Direct port kit, as well as run a NOS Plate system on a GSR and direct port NOS on a GSR and a single nozzle system on my dads 3.0L maxima, so I too have a bit of experience with nitrous.

First things, puddling only happens on NOS brand systems, that will not happen on an intercept nozzle like NX has. If you look at a fogger nozzle it all sprays out the same end unlike a NX nozzle where the nitrous actually sprays through the fuel atomizing it so small that puddling is virtually impossible. This was proven in my fathers maxima running a 150hp shot single nozzle NX wet kit made his car run 13.1@105mph automatic with 1.8 60ft time. (yes its true I have video to prove) No problem with his motor at all we ran it all year and that car has a messed up intake manifold too.

Dry system bump fuel pressure which is a very imprecise way to give you the extra fuel required it also will cause pre-mature injector failure if you run too much hp like 80+ on just about any car. Had it happen on my GTI VR6 and on a B16. Neither blew up because I was lucky. You also do not get the rate HP on a DRY kit to the wheels. My dry 80hp shot dynoed 51hp and 76lbs/ft of torque. My single nozzle 80hp kit dynoed 81hp and 83lbs/ft and my direct port at 127 and 130ft/lbs for a 125hp shot.

For anybody planning on running a 50hp shot for the rest of their lives a 50hp shot dry will be just fine. You could run dry or single nozzle wet no problems. If you want to run more single nozzle wet like the NX EFI kit is the way to go absolutely. You will NOT get fuel puddling or any of that old NOS rhetoric that has been floating around for a long time. Even NOS fixed that problem on their kits now because they copied NX's nozzle style. ... If you have the balls direct port is the way to go the hit is much harder but you have to start at about 100hp shot on most cars. If you have a Honda the NXL Nozzle system which plugs in front of your injectors and has the integrated rail with solenoids is a great system. I have been told they are developing such a system for the 4G63 as well.

Both ZEX and NOS are copying NX's design and coming out with single nossle wet kits because they are PROVEN not to puddle, provide more HP much more reliability. For every instance of puddling with a NOS system I will show you a smoked piston with a dry kit cause the kid turned up the HP.

(if anybody wants pics I will be happy to provide...)

Remember things are always better when wet...

 

[NosLaser]

I don't think you are actually disagreeing with me, but more or less adding another example. Sure, we can get into saphirre jets, and soft plume nozzles, etc. but the bottom line is this guy is gonna put a small shot of spray on his NA DSM. We aren't talking about a 150 HP gain here. For his application, I still feel the dry kit is the right way to go. You have to remember that ANYTHING can happen. You had good luck with nitrous, and I'm sure the higher shot you ran on that Maxima wasn't the first time you used it. You had trials and errors until you got it right. I ran an 80 shot dry on my Laser. Not the best idea in the world for a turbo car, but I got away with it well; not everyone else will 100% of the time. I think if he tries a wet kit, he's asking for trouble. The dry kit will work just fine, and WILL atomize better than the wet kit for the simple fact that fuel is going to be heavier than nitrous, PERIOD, no matter how small the particles are. There may come an instance; a missed shift, over-reving the motor, etc. where a wet kit instead of a dry kit could be detrimental. On a dry kit, I used to miss the occasional powershift in my Laser on spray. Guess what happened? Nothing. Had it been a wet kit, you can almost guarentee a nitrous backfire. I think you bring up interesting topics, but a dry kit I personally feel is hands down better for his particular application. Remember, everything is 'drawn to scale' so to speak. You have to figure about the highest HP shot you want on a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder normal street car is about 75. That equates to about a 125-150 shot on a V8. When I say "for naturally aspirated cars, the best kit up to about 125 shot is a dry" you have to remember it's drawn to scale. If you were planning on spraying 125HP on a 4 cylinder, then OF COURSE you want it to be a wet kit since a dry kit of that magnitude on a 4 cylinder would require much more demanding fuel enrichment. Just food for thought; hope this helps.

Regards,

 

[DSMJim]

I hit my rev limiter with my dry setup and had no problems, hell I did a burn out with it on and didn't really realize until the guy in the box with me asked if it was on. I checked and low and behold it was. I couldn't tell but he could tell cause the motor sounded different ...

I hit the rev limiter with the direct port too and nothing really happened. Your are right in assuming that the 150hp was not the first shot on that car as well. It also started out dry and wet switched to a wet single nozzle kit on that car with 75 them moving up.

I do agree if he plans on staying small then a dry kit will work fine, however a wet kit will work just as well, and in my opinion looks better when installed from a cosmetic standpoint. It would also be easier to move your shot up to a higher level as well if he got pistons later on down the road.

I'm glad to finally see somebody else feels the same way about nitrous as I do without all the F&F bs that people constantly spew to me about nitrous. I work for a performance shop and I have honestly heard it all.

 

[na90dsm]

so i could safely use a 100 shot direct port setup with the forged pistons i just bought and be ok even with a stock head. i dont plan on using it often just when i feel like goin to the track. if im not at the track the lines will be plugged and the bottle wont be in the car. could i do this safely and not have any problems. i would be using a dry setup also.

 

[ddimestalon]

Originally posted by diding1

and th bottle warmer does wonders for bottle preasure
and just for grins try puting your bottle in the deep freeze over night it allows te bottle to hold more but make sure you ask your refill guy first some places wont fill frozen bottles but ihas no adverse affects on the bottle it self

ok i used your quote because i can explain most of my points with it.

If its a reputable nitrous dealer, they will always fill your bottle cold. Thats the only way youll know that your getting all the nitrous in the bottle. If they filled it warm( there idiots for doing it ) you'll prolly only get half the bottle filled.

2) the bottle warmer is nice but not necessarilly needed (really only during the winter time). During the summer time the hatch already is hot. The bottle needs to be at 80 degrees F to run properly. So during the summer time u should know that your hatch gets way warmer than that. I have seen some articles on different forums where the bottle heater was left on and it had blown up the entire trunk

 

[ddimestalon]

Originally posted by daltah
which is the safest nitrous kit for a N/A 2nd gen dsm?what i want to know is wet system or dry.and the key word here is the "safest".also what shot and what brand.Also i want to run a 50 shot and every once in a while a 75-80 shot

It depends what 2nd gen u have. Its recommended that you use a dry for the 95(if im not mistaken u can only use a dry kit on a 95), and then u can use a wet or dry kit for the 96-99. Ive heard great compliments on the wet kit though. All the kits are the safest, but the easiest to install by far is the zex kit. If u have stock internals a 75 shot would be the safest to go. I would recommend starting off with a small shot and then work your way up. I have a 40 shot of nos brand, and ive been running it for 4 months, and in another month im going up to the 50 shot.