Weird I did a Radiator Flush but I cant put more then 1 gal of water in ??

[Norcalgsx707]

Okay Im thinking that there must be a clog some where. I took out my radiator flushed it then put it back in flushed it again (by taking out the drain plug)and then repeated the process 1 more time when all the water drained out I put in a gallon of Distilled water and it over flowed 3/4 way thru anyone no whats going on here also my radiator looks a little rusty. I replaced the water pump,thermostat,cap,headgaskets,and all the coolant lines I think its my radiator or heater core but im not to sure

 

[money42211]

Pull the block plug and run ## car why adding water to it needs to get to running temp use warm water

 

[TSicktalon]

Just add it when the car is cool. It only needs to be warm if the engine is at operating temp.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

So the pull the plug thing while its running wont hurt my car by draining out all the coolant

 

[luv2rallye]

Pull it before running engine. Then run a couple minutes only till water stops coming out. As long as engine has not heated up your ok.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

I did what you guys suggested and still I cant put more then 1 gallon in

 

[boostback]

My suggestion would be to take the radiator and try using a hose to push water through it and see if maybe that will un plug it where ever its plugged at.

 

[AK Maniak]

^If you do that you better make sure that you flush the hell out of it afterwards because you'll want to get all the tap water out of the system.

 

[CellerDweller]

When you fill the system with coolant, are you starting the car with the inside climate control knob on heat or defrost with the vent fan all the way on? This will allow the coolant to get through the heater core and help push all the air bubbles out. Also, are you letting the car get up to operating temp so the thermostat opens? You can have the radiator cap open during all this and see all the air bubbles as it bleeds the system, but if you rev the throttle (even in park/ neutral) coolant will get all over the engine.

 

[luv2rallye]

Also burp the system by squeezing the lower radiator hose with the cap off after thermostat has opened.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

I do newb stuff all the time working on DSM's is new for me so is working on cars period so excuse me if I post anything thats noob-like, anyways I had it running at 206 degrees yesterday but Im guessing since I didnt put enough Distilled water,coolant and water wetter in it started getting hot again around 223 this time I opened the cap when I got home and there was barley any water in it maybe .10 of water running through the coolant housing, so I put a little more water in Im going to try what you guys suggested and see if that helps as in burp,run the heater so that it gets all the bubbles out. So far I've changed the Thermo,the radiator,water pump and flushed it numeroustinmes, Ive semi ducted the condesenr and radiator and Ive put in 70/30 with a half a bottle of water wetter

 

[luv2rallye]

Do you have the 4 wire factory fans? Both fan shrouds are CRUCIAL to cooling. Do both fans turn on? And have the exhaust manifold heat shield on. So you replaced the radiator, cap, and thermostat then? Is thermostat in proper direction? Keep the coolant at 50/50 (70/30 doesn't help). It's not necessary to turn the heater on as in our cars water flows through the heater core all the time (a blend door directs the heat) although if the heater core is clogged that may cause problems (do you get inside heat with heater on?). Since you say your losing water can you see if it's leaking out somewhere or do you get white exhaust smoke (head gasket)? If no white smoke, I recommend doing a cooling system pressure test to locate the leak.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

Do you have the 4 wire factory fans? Both fan shrouds are CRUCIAL to cooling. Do both fans turn on? And have the exhaust manifold heat shield on. So you replaced the radiator, cap, and thermostat then? Is thermostat in proper direction? Keep the coolant at 50/50 (70/30 doesn't help). It's not necessary to turn the heater on as in our cars water flows through the heater core all the time (a blend door directs the heat) although if the heater core is clogged that may cause problems (do you get inside heat with heater on?). Since you say your losing water can you see if it's leaking out somewhere or do you get white exhaust smoke (head gasket)? If no white smoke, I recommend doing a cooling system pressure test to locate the leak.

Yes I have the factory fans/radiator everything is stock, I have both fans on all the time through Ecm-link all the heat shileds are on also, Also I had the headgaskets replaced and the studs are new Arp's too, to go along with the Thermo,Rad,Cap. The Thermo's longest end is pointing towards the block, heat gets hot in the Cab, Also sometimes I get a small amount of white smoke nothing consistent with a headgaskets as my gaskets are new Fel-pro MLS, Im not fromiliar with the coolant test do you push are thru the coolant system?

The car sat for six months and it also has a VRSF FMIC

 

[luv2rallye]

Well the water is going somewhere - either burning because your new HG is blown or burning/leaking in the turbo (cracked cavity or bad seals) OR leaking somewhere (cap, hose, incorrect water pump crossover pipe o-ring install (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/309982-coolant-leak.html#post151625392), etc.

The coolant system test is where you connect a pressurizer in place of the cap, pressurize it to 15 psi and look for water leaking/squirting out (tester: Cooling System - Stant). You can do it on a cold or warm engine but engine is not running. It's also used to test caps. You can have any mechanic do it or sometimes rent the tester and do it yourself.

More coolant system leak tips: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/233476-finding-coolant-leaks-tips-tricks.html

 

[Norcalgsx707]

Well the water is going somewhere - either burning because your new HG is blown or burning/leaking in the turbo (cracked cavity or bad seals) OR leaking somewhere (cap, hose, incorrect water pump crossover pipe o-ring install (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/309982-coolant-leak.html#post151625392), etc.

The coolant system test is where you connect a pressurizer in place of the cap, pressurize it to 15 psi and look for water leaking/squirting out (tester: Cooling System - Stant). You can do it on a cold or warm engine but engine is not running. It's also used to test caps. You can have any mechanic do it or sometimes rent the tester and do it yourself.

More coolant system leak tips: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/233476-finding-coolant-leaks-tips-tricks.html

So today I took it out for a test drive I put more coolant , water wetter, and distilled water. If im cruisng for 15 miles or more it stays around 196-206 I ran it for about a hour and did a small half throttle pull and It got up to 213 the most it went up to is 216 so It dropped some it also seems to be holding coolant well it was literally full in the coolant housing mouth and the overflow i was driving tonight and I did a couple pulls just to see if she would over heat and it stayed around 206 do you think could this be a air flow to radiator issue?

 

[luv2rallye]

Probably. So you're not loosing coolant anymore?
Note that after the engine has been completely warmed up (with thermo opened), a properly sealed coolant system will suck water out of the overflow bottle while cooling down overnight until the radiator is full.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

Probably. So you're not loosing coolant anymore?
Note that after the engine has been completely warmed up (with thermo opened), a properly sealed coolant system will suck water out of the overflow bottle while cooling down overnight until the radiator is full.

It doesnt seem like i am but I will have to drive it more to see and Im trying to figure out if I should block off the openings around my intercooler