The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Way to much boost.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

97ClipseGSX

10+ Year Contributor
53
0
Jul 28, 2010
Asheboro, North Carolina
Hey guys I gotta a question. So anyways my old turbo went out and I jumped on the opportunity and got a E16g. Hooked everything up and when I took off down the road I put it in 2nd to give it a pull to see what psi it was set at. It shot around 30 before I could get my foot back off the gas. I know thats a bad thing considering Im still stock fuel injectors and no MBC. Basically I was wanting to know if there was any tricks or ideas I could do to fix this problem. Im on a very very tight budget at the moment and just want my boost to where my injectors can manage it. Any thoughts would be highly appreciated. Thank you.
 
The acuator is to stiff then, I would call the rebuilder and request a 7-12psi adjustable acuator and you should be good. How hard was it to remove and reinstall the acuator on the flapper?

Thats what I was thinking too. It ran up to 25psi and fuel cut out. It wasnt too hard to remove the Cotter Pin and check the flapper. Luckily I didnt have to take the whole thing off again and redrain my oil :pray:
 
Are you sure your boost gauge is reading right, because there's really no way you could get past like 15-17 psi without fuel cut on the stock injectors. Maybe your gauge is off by 10psi and you really hit 15. What ever the case, it's really not a good idea to drive the car until you figure this out.
 
Positive. Ive had the BG in there ever since ive had the car pretty much. I was running 13 psi on the stock T25. I didnt mess with anything on the hose for the gauge itself. Yea, im not currently driving it at all. Just sitting in the drive way
 
I have an actuator off an e3 16g, not sure of spring psi because I never used it. I'll let you have it if you want. I also have a 14lb holset adjustable actuator as well....
 
Unplug the j pipe, the wastegate line goes to there...

Bov line comes off intake manifold...

That's just about it. When you add a boost controller all you do is splice it inline with the j pipe and wastegate. Simple.

If its routed any other way its wrong

^^^^^This^^^^

You should have a hose from your boost source to the WG nipple. If you have a nipple on your J pipe run a hose from there to your Waste gate. A MBC goes in between, when you are ready.
 
I have an actuator off an e3 16g, not sure of spring psi because I never used it. I'll let you have it if you want. I also have a 14lb holset adjustable actuator as well....

Im gonna test out the WG tomorrow morning with an air compressor and see what its set at.

Isn't the wastegate set at 12lbs for a T25?

Yea, Mine ran around 12 to 13.

^^^^^This^^^^

You should have a hose from your boost source to the WG nipple. If you have a nipple on your J pipe run a hose from there to your Waste gate. A MBC goes in between, when you are ready.

Yes I connected the hose from my WG to my Jpipe. No MBC at the moment though
 
What I'm thinking happened, is the guy you sent your turbo to did the same thing with someone else's turbo... took the 16g and sold other guy a different turbo, then rebuilt this one and sold it to you... basically he knew nothing about it except the fact he rebuilt it. That's not good business in my honest opinion........... to me that's the equivalent of buying an eBay turbo with shaft play out of the box, just more and more time and money thrown at it.

For me at this point, 4-5 days and some potentially engine damaging boost later.... id rather have my T25 back.
 
What I'm thinking happened, is the guy you sent your turbo to did the same thing with someone else's turbo... took the 16g and sold other guy a different turbo, then rebuilt this one and sold it to you... basically he knew nothing about it except the fact he rebuilt it. That's not good business in my honest opinion........... to me that's the equivalent of buying an eBay turbo with shaft play out of the box, just more and more time and money thrown at it.

For me at this point, 4-5 days and some potentially engine damaging boost later.... id rather have my T25 back.

Yea I understand what your saying. Turbos fine though, I tested the WG today and it opened at 30 psi. Checked it 5 times just to be sure and safe. So ill have to get a new WG before running it. I dont drive the car at all right now for that reason. I was told i could take the WG and it would run at really low Psi, but not hurt my motor or turbo.
 
Ya had a feeling that wastegate was to blame. Why not ask the rebuilder for a different acuator, I mean he's lucky you didn't blow anything up. He should be more than willing to make things right, I would ask or find another ASAP.
 
Ya had a feeling that wastegate was to blame. Why not ask the rebuilder for a different acuator, I mean he's lucky you didn't blow anything up. He should be more than willing to make things right, I would ask or find another ASAP.

Yea thats probably what im about to do. Im glad I had my motor built already before. Im afraid if I didnt it defiantly would of blew it. Im gonna look around, I know there was a guy on here that said he had a old one that he didnt use and I could have it if I wanted it. I might jump on that. Have him test it with a compressor first.
 
idk if anyone said it but you can spray inside of your actuator with WD40 to help lubricate the parts better, thus helping to open up the spring if that is the problem. dont spray too heavily though... maybe 2 or 3 little squirts.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=25454&cat=864&page=1

this is the actuator you need btw... and its not going to run 11 psi like it says, its going to run 16-18 lbs stock on your E16g and w/o a bigger fuel pump, injectors, and FPR youre going to be hitting fuel cut everytime youre on the gas... not to mention you have no engine management so your injectors are still squirting stock cc's until you find a way to tune it. I recommend DSMLink, the newest version is 3.0 and its great. 500$ for it, or you can get the lite version for 350$ i think.. or an older version like 2.0 or 2.0 lite for as cheap as 200$.

you have the awd 2gb, which is like a 1% of a 1% car... please dont blow it up LOL, theres not enough of them left.

re-reading now, if youre on a budget you have the wrong car bro LOL. these things require some serious $ to do shit right. especially since you ust slapped on a bigger turbo and face first into a pretty big project, I would not drive it and sell it to someone who knows how to set things straight before its blowed up.

my advice would be dont drive it until you get a T25 and stock actuator back on and running. Keep the turbo you got and collect all of the supporting mods you need FIRST then start modding.

do you have a wideband?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Maybe you have a boost leak? Do a boost leak test and fix it up. but yea you should get the manual boost control asap :)
 
idk if anyone said it but you can spray inside of your actuator with WD40 to help lubricate the parts better, thus helping to open up the spring if that is the problem. dont spray too heavily though... maybe 2 or 3 little squirts.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

this is the actuator you need btw... and its not going to run 11 psi like it says, its going to run 16-18 lbs stock on your E16g and w/o a bigger fuel pump, injectors, and FPR youre going to be hitting fuel cut everytime youre on the gas... not to mention you have no engine management so your injectors are still squirting stock cc's until you find a way to tune it. I recommend DSMLink, the newest version is 3.0 and its great. 500$ for it, or you can get the lite version for 350$ i think.. or an older version like 2.0 or 2.0 lite for as cheap as 200$.

you have the awd 2gb, which is like a 1% of a 1% car... please dont blow it up LOL, theres not enough of them left.

re-reading now, if youre on a budget you have the wrong car bro LOL. these things require some serious $ to do shit right. especially since you ust slapped on a bigger turbo and face first into a pretty big project, I would not drive it and sell it to someone who knows how to set things straight before its blowed up.

my advice would be dont drive it until you get a T25 and stock actuator back on and running. Keep the turbo you got and collect all of the supporting mods you need FIRST then start modding.

do you have a wideband?


Ive had my car for 4 years now and have always been able to afford it. I dont have money at the moment due to just getting layed off. and why would it say 11 psi if its not going to push out 11 psi?

If he had a boost leak he wouldn't be boosting to 30psi bro!! And what would a mbc do its not going to help his problem, plus he already figured out the wastegate acuator is at fault!

Thanks man. Its already been said that its my WG. I still dont see how if I get a STOCK WG for a e16g, im still going to hit fuel cut...
 
Well that's good you got it figured out!

On that note, id also like to bring up that I really hope this turbo rebuilder went through that turbo with a fine tooth comb. If it was pushing 30 psi on the last car it was on its been set at just about its maximum range and ran for however long before it failed on the first guy.

Not being a downer on the situation, but that's also something to think about...
 
Ive had my car for 4 years now and have always been able to afford it. I dont have money at the moment due to just getting layed off. and why would it say 11 psi if its not going to push out 11 psi?



Thanks man. Its already been said that its my WG. I still dont see how if I get a STOCK WG for a e16g, im still going to hit fuel cut...

because i have a 16g and that same actuator and it sets the boost at 16-18 psi w/ no MBC.

you get laid off and decide to slap a bigger turbo on your car w/ no supporting mods, ok cool good choice and GL.
 
because i have a 16g and that same actuator and it sets the boost at 16-18 psi w/ no MBC.

you get laid off and decide to slap a bigger turbo on your car w/ no supporting mods, ok cool good choice and GL.

And ive had buddies that have 16gs on theres and it ran from 11 to 15. The reason I HAD to swap my turbo because my old one blew... Motor wise im fine, I just had it built. Im not worried about that part. And im not taking the car to the "strip" anytime soon. Just need something to get from point A to point B other than a motorcycle.
 
And ive had buddies that have 16gs on theres and it ran from 11 to 15. The reason I HAD to swap my turbo because my old one blew... Motor wise im fine, I just had it built. Im not worried about that part. And im not taking the car to the "strip" anytime soon. Just need something to get from point A to point B other than a motorcycle.

You can drive your car the way it is, just stay out of the throttle and shift before 2500 rpms, in another words stay out of boost. If you don't find another wastegate actuator, PM me. I have a 14b turbo sitting here, I can unbolt the actuator and sent it to you.
 
You can drive your car the way it is, just stay out of the throttle and shift before 2500 rpms, in another words stay out of boost. If you don't find another wastegate actuator, PM me. I have a 14b turbo sitting here, I can unbolt the actuator and sent it to you.

Alright man, Ill keep that in mind. You know what the pounds are set at on it?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top