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water & meth injection results

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which is suggested at the price- I am looking for the cheapest but reliable one- I want to run 26psi+ but I drive conservative, and dont spend to much time in boost.
 
I just bought the ebay kit. I cant remember the name I think it was cooling mist. But it was like 198 shipped. I installed it and my only complaint is the **** at the parts store buggared the threads on the jet so I had to jb weld it in the TB. I have a 300cc nozzle, it comes on at 10psi and I run it to 20 psi. It is un real though. I have finally got a decent tune and I run 20psi with at most 2 counts of knock.

All though the red L.E.D. it came with only lasted three pulls then burnt out. So if that is the only thing that goes bad I am happy.

WI=:rocks:

Now I need help with a new turbo. I made the post in the turbo section asking about the g50.
 
Don't want to be a jherkoff, but distilled water isn't just boiled, it is boiled OFF, then the hot vapors(steam) are condensed, leaving impurities behind. The condensed steam is the distilled water.
 
The 300cc injector is pretty small for anything more then 100% H2O. You should go with m7 or larger (600cc) if you ever plan on running 50/50+. I had the same kit on a 14b and 16g. 600cc injector helped controle knock & provied much better gains, but then agian I always run 50/50 & 20+psi.
 
So far I can get away with 92octane + meth, no knock @ 20psi. I wish I could get more boost out of 92octane fuel tho.. i have the timing down to 14deg max, and a/f 11.0.

I also get backfires ALOT during high rev shifts. I had my friend ride behind me on his cbr 929rr, and he said
I was shooting blue/red flames out. Is this cause of the meth? ### I know it isnt from being rich.
 
I also get the loud pop when letting off to shift, it seems to be normal based on what I've read. You should be able to get more boost out of it. What size meth injector are you using and what is the pressure rating on the injection pump?
 
Mine pops too. I was hoping I was shooting a flame.:rocks:

I am on a 300cc nozzle right now. I get like knock spike when boost hits but it slowly falls back down the more I accelerate. If I go to a bigger turbo eather a 60 trim, or a 60-1 what nozzle should I get. I believe my pump was a 150psi pump.
 
I just bought the ebay kit. I cant remember the name I think it was cooling mist. But it was like 198 shipped. I installed it and my only complaint is the **** at the parts store buggared the threads on the jet so I had to jb weld it in the TB. I have a 300cc nozzle, it comes on at 10psi and I run it to 20 psi. It is un real though. I have finally got a decent tune and I run 20psi with at most 2 counts of knock.

All though the red L.E.D. it came with only lasted three pulls then burnt out. So if that is the only thing that goes bad I am happy.

WI=:rocks:

Now I need help with a new turbo. I made the post in the turbo section asking about the g50.

I think thats the same kit I bought but I got a bigger nozzle.The little red led burned out on me the first 2 seconds also.I emailed them and said it was bull#### and he sent me another one and it has yet to fail.I am running 25psi on a t4 60trim with 0 knock.
 
I also get the loud pop when letting off to shift, it seems to be normal based on what I've read. You should be able to get more boost out of it. What size meth injector are you using and what is the pressure rating on the injection pump?

150psi shurflo pump, M5 nozzle @ 180psi.. you think I need a bigger nozzle? The wierd thing is tho, Say im in 4th or 5th and i do a pull, I get no knock. then I do a 3rd gear pull and I get around 1deg... whats with that? You think my knock sensor is picking up bs phantom knock?
 
Hmm..where does it pick up the knock? If you could post a log or a screenshot of the pull...

I had a bad knock sensor and it would pick up knock in lower gears, but 80% of the time the fake knock would occur right when hitting full boost or when shifting, both of which were caused by a "shock" setting the sensor off. It was so bad at one point that hitting a decent bump while on the freeway would it to "knock" 1 deg or so. New knock sensor made it SO much easier to tune in DSMlink. No more of doing a clean pull, only to do another and pick up bad knock which you thought was real, and then tune accordingly.

I started with an M5 nozzle and it netted me more than 20 psi on 91 octane with 16* of timing, but every car is different. M5 isn't very big. Try an M7 or even an M10. They're cheap so it doesnt hurt. Even with M10 there isn't any hesitation/bogging for me when it comes on around 12 psi.
 
It only does it when i get on it at 3k, like WOT instantly. if im cruising and lay on the gas slowly then eventually WOT i can rev till the motor throws a rod and never knock.. so i dunno .. seems wierd.. and I also have 3rd gen lifters, and they never tick.

EDIT: I ment to say it does it when i get on it under 3k. I normally hit full boost right @ 3k on the mark in any gear, and once full boost @ 3k then KNOCK occurs. Say i let off, and its past 3k, say 3800-4k.. It will pull till redline with no knock at all.. so does that sound like a knock sensor issue or maybe set my meth to spray earlier?
 
Don't want to be a jherkoff, but distilled water isn't just boiled, it is boiled OFF, then the hot vapors(steam) are condensed, leaving impurities behind. The condensed steam is the distilled water.
Roger that! Boiling water may "sterilize" it (ie. killing off germs), but it does nothing to remove impurities. Boiling takes advantage of the fact that water will boil and turn into steam, but dirt/salt/sediments can't so they stay in the pot.

Don't try this at home kids! At best you'll have normal tap water, and at worst you'll have nicely condensed even-dirtier water. Stick with windshield fluid.

My high school science teacher used to distill his own water. It was a sealed container, with water on the bottom. It'd boil the water into steam, which would condense on the top of the container. The condensed steam would form droplets, be caught by a funnel, and drip into a tank. Long process, takes time and electricity (plus the cost of the distiller). May as well just buy distilled water from the store, at that point.
 
I have been reading up on using the stock rear washer fluid reservoir as the tank for water injection, but was curious if there was an idiot light in 1g's that would alert you if the fluid was low? I guess I don't use mine often enough to find out...
 
I have been reading up on using the stock rear washer fluid reservoir as the tank for water injection, but was curious if there was an idiot light in 1g's that would alert you if the fluid was low? I guess I don't use mine often enough to find out...
I don't know about 1G's, but on my 2G I run out of washer fluid all the time and I don't have a light. Could be broken, but I've never seen one.
 
I have been reading up on using the stock rear washer fluid reservoir as the tank for water injection, but was curious if there was an idiot light in 1g's that would alert you if the fluid was low? I guess I don't use mine often enough to find out...

The rear tank is no bigger then the front tank on a 1g, Ive checked myself. And believe me, Your not gonna wanna use either tanks, because the meth dissapears very quickly. I recommend a tank like I got, 6gallon. Just make sure you strap it down good.
 
This is one of my next mods, I forget the formula so im curious if anyone could help me out real quick. What size nozzle would I need if im useing 750cc injectors, duno if it matters but im on a E3 turbo w/FMIC and DSMLink.

and how much would the correct nozzle flow?
 
(injector size) x 4 x (% duty cycle, 80% = .80) = total fuel flow, x (15% for water, 20-25% for meth) = size of injector

so 750 x 4 x 70%? = 2250cc x 25% = ~560cc injector if using pure meth. It doesn't have to be exact, and it would be a good idea to start smaller and go bigger only if you need to. Meth/water injectors are pretty cheap.
 
(injector size) x 4 x (% duty cycle, 80% = .80) = total fuel flow, x (15% for water, 20-25% for meth) = size of injector

so 750 x 4 x 70%? = 2250cc x 25% = ~560cc injector if using pure meth. It doesn't have to be exact, and it would be a good idea to start smaller and go bigger only if you need to. Meth/water injectors are pretty cheap.

I just read this whole thread

So for my car I use 950's and see about 73% duty cycle... so I would get
950*4=3800*.73=2774*.25=693.5
So how does this 650-700cc injector needed relate to these M5, M7, M10 nozzels?

Also at the end of page two and the begining of page 3 alot of people were talking about poping during shifts... any of you have SMIM's? I am scared of blowing my Magnus apart from a Meth backfire. I have been told a backfire ussually happens when you miss a shift or somthing like that and the meth loads up, then backfires...

In responce to the distillery comments. It is simple, to distill something is the process of turning it from liquid, to steam and then back to liquid. So just boiling water is not distilling it.
 
So for my car I use 950's and see about 73% duty cycle... so I would get
950*4=3800*.73=2774*.25=693.5
So how does this 650-700cc injector needed relate to these M5, M7, M10 nozzels?
The # related to the injectors flow @ 100psi pressure. So an M11 will flow 11 gallons per hour or 694cc/min.

To convert GPH to cc/min divide by 0.01585
to convert cc/min to GPH multiply by 0.01585

Obviously running a higher psi pump will increase the flow potential for a given sized injector. A nice document from Engine Runup to illustrate this

:dsm:
 
Yeah, you can dial in your flow rate somewhat if you have an adjustable pressure pump such like the 150 psi black pump from Coolingmist. They told me they set them a little below 150 when you recieve it, and you can give it a couple turns to bump up the pressure if you need to. Don't overdo it, though. I gave mine 2 turns above how it came stock and it made a significant difference.
 
The rear tank is no bigger then the front tank on a 1g, Ive checked myself. And believe me, Your not gonna wanna use either tanks, because the meth dissapears very quickly. I recommend a tank like I got, 6gallon. Just make sure you strap it down good.

Thanks for the input.
 
Great post. Quick questions:

1. How did the addition of water injection affect your tune? Was it a big change with the SAFC or was your original tune still pretty good?

2. Even if the engine isn't knocking from too much boost and not enough fuel, at what point are you risking blowing a stock headgasket and/or other stock parts? What would be the first thing to go if the boost was set really high (25+) yet there was still no knock? Thanks.
 
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