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4everboosted

Proven Member
97
3
Dec 6, 2013
Butler, Pennsylvania
I have the big evo3 turbo. My question is if you follow the wastegate actuator arm to the turbo inlet side, you see a brass colored round object with a nipple there that looks like its for a vacuum line. What is that nipple for and is it supposed to be open? Mines open but I noticed someone had a line running off of theirs in a picture I was looking at recently.
 
I am going to guess you have a gigantic boost leak. If the wastegate wont open, it should have a METRIC sh** TON (relatively speaking) of boost.
You are absolutely right.. System would not hold pressure at all started at 5 psi went to 15 it all leaked out very quickly somewhere in the area of the throttle body. I got a throttle body rebuild kit, but judging by what others are saying that's usually a small leak. This sounds like a hole in it or something, yet I still can't pinpoint the exact area where it's coming from.
 
You are absolutely right.. System would not hold pressure at all started at 5 psi went to 15 it all leaked out very quickly somewhere in the area of the throttle body. I got a throttle body rebuild kit, but judging by what others are saying that's usually a small leak. This sounds like a hole in it or something, yet I still can't pinpoint the exact area where it's coming from.

Add some dish soap to water in a spray bottle and start spraying your entire turbo system at any junction, your throttle body, intake manifold, fuel injector seals, throttle body gaskets, vacuum lines, and your couplers. A leak this large will mask many other leaks. You will fix one and two more will show up. Repeat until you are leak free.
 
Add some dish soap to water in a spray bottle and start spraying your entire turbo system at any junction, your throttle body, intake manifold, fuel injector seals, throttle body gaskets, vacuum lines, and your couplers. A leak this large will mask many other leaks. You will fix one and two more will show up. Repeat until you are leak free.
Thanks ill be sure to try that after I get a new turbo and put it on. By the way anyone know where I can get a new big 16g? I have been searching everywhere and all I can come up with is Chinese versions. Not sure if I am keeping the car or not yet, so don't want to slap some Chinese pos on it.
 
Thanks ill be sure to try that after I get a new turbo and put it on. By the way anyone know where I can get a new big 16g? I have been searching everywhere and all I can come up with is Chinese versions. Not sure if I am keeping the car or not yet, so don't want to slap some Chinese pos on it.

I would fix all of the boost leaks, and wastegate issues before spending money on a turbo. In order for a turbo to make zero boost, it has to be seriously f***ed.
 
If you sell it, at least put a reliable OEM T-25 or 14B on there so you don't totally screw the next guy. You can find them in the classifieds for under a bill.

Just sayin.
If i wanted to totally screw the next guy i would put a Chinese 16g on it. I'm looking for the actual mhi 16g. And im not 100% on getting rid of it, sometimes i just speak out of anger.
 
I would fix all of the boost leaks, and wastegate issues before spending money on a turbo. In order for a turbo to make zero boost, it has to be seriously f***ed.
Really i don't think the turbo is as bad as what i made it out to be. I was able to fix the wastegate issue, and it has slight movement in and out... but its off the car.. Do i really want to put it back on? I'm not sure yet, but no matter the circumstances I'm not going to drive the car until all boost leaks are fixed.
 
Really i don't think the turbo is as bad as what i made it out to be. I was able to fix the wastegate issue, and it has slight movement in and out... but its off the car.. Do i really want to put it back on? I'm not sure yet, but no matter the circumstances I'm not going to drive the car until all boost leaks are fixed.
If i wanted to totally screw the next guy i would put a Chinese 16g on it. I'm looking for the actual mhi 16g. And im not 100% on getting rid of it, sometimes i just speak out of anger.

Look in the classifieds on this website for a good used mhi 16g people are selling them all the time. Or, you could always have your turbo rebuilt by Jusmx141. I haven't personally used his service put he knows his stuff and I have yet to hear of any kind of negative feedback.
 
Look in the classifieds on this website for a good used mhi 16g people are selling them all the time. Or, you could always have your turbo rebuilt by Jusmx141. I haven't personally used his service put he knows his stuff and I have yet to hear of any kind of negative feedback.
Yeah I considered a used one but I could have sworn someone sold new 16g's somewhere in the 500-600 dollar range... But I had my endplay measured tonight, 12thousandths not sure what its supposed to be, but that's where I stand right now.
 
If your current 16g is a quality turbo and not a cheap replica... if I was in the same position and wanting to stick with the 16g I would definitely rather have it rebuilt vs buying a new one, all the money saved can go toward other things. Last time I checked 16g's were a bit more expensive than that, at least when I was looking.
 
Just get a hold of jusmx141 make some arrangemets to have him rebuild it read his post in freelancers he has my 16g right now.... get on download the service manual and read all of the post you can in archives on here and you will learn more about these cars then you could imagine. Hopefully your wg issue didnt do what mine did and blow your hg before it was figured out..
 
Yeah I considered a used one but I could have sworn someone sold new 16g's somewhere in the 500-600 dollar range... But I had my endplay measured tonight, 12thousandths not sure what its supposed to be, but that's where I stand right now.

You used to be able to get new 16g's for 499 all day. Now that they don't make them in large quantities (Mitsubishi that is), a new MHI 16g is more like 999. Is the actuator arm moving on the turbine housing? Is it connected to the actuator arm? It is possible that the flapper is being held OPEN by the actuator, or the actuator is holding the flapper open.

Still ZERO boost sounds like a HUGE boost leak to me.
 
If your current 16g is a quality turbo and not a cheap replica... if I was in the same position and wanting to stick with the 16g I would definitely rather have it rebuilt vs buying a new one, all the money saved can go toward other things. Last time I checked 16g's were a bit more expensive than that, at least when I was looking.
Yeah I am rebuilding the 16g for sure. My ultimate plan is an HX35, but that's after an engine build, for now just want a quick car to play with. I have a rebuild kit from GPOP shop so we'll see how it goes.
 
Just get a hold of jusmx141 make some arrangemets to have him rebuild it read his post in freelancers he has my 16g right now.... get on download the service manual and read all of the post you can in archives on here and you will learn more about these cars then you could imagine. Hopefully your wg issue didnt do what mine did and blow your hg before it was figured out..
I don't think my headgasket blew... When I removed the turbo I obviously drained the oil and coolant and they weren't mixed. Guess it still could be blown between two cylinders, but doubtful in my opinion, because I think even though it might have been overboosting, its my personal belief that whatever the major leak at the throttle body is actually saved the engine from getting too much boost. Gotta do a compression and leak down test to be sure, but obviously need to get the turbo taken care of first.
 
You used to be able to get new 16g's for 499 all day. Now that they don't make them in large quantities (Mitsubishi that is), a new MHI 16g is more like 999. Is the actuator arm moving on the turbine housing? Is it connected to the actuator arm? It is possible that the flapper is being held OPEN by the actuator, or the actuator is holding the flapper open.

Still ZERO boost sounds like a HUGE boost leak to me.
When I unbolt the wastegate actuator I can move it to make the flapper open and close, I have not hooked up my air compressor to it yet though to make sure the actuator is good. I don't have zero boost though, according to my boost guage, but when I do a boost leak test the system will not hold pressure, it leaks off quickly in the throttle body area.
 
Probably bad throttle body shaft seals. Pretty easy fix.

Most likely. You will fix that one, and find at least 10 other significant leaks. That is just the worst one, and it is masking the smaller leaks. When I started sealing up my boost leaks I thought there were two.

There were actually 9 SIGNIFICANT boost leaks.

Also, the EGR valve is right below the throttle body (at least on a 1g) If that gasket blows, it will leak like crazy. Did you spray with soapy water yet?
 
Probably bad throttle body shaft seals. Pretty easy fix.

Most likely. You will fix that one, and find at least 10 other significant leaks. That is just the worst one, and it is masking the smaller leaks. When I started sealing up my boost leaks I thought there were two.

There were actually 9 SIGNIFICANT boost leaks.

Also, the EGR valve is right below the throttle body (at least on a 1g) If that gasket blows, it will leak like crazy. Did you spray with soapy water yet?
Just order a rebuild kit from snowboarder714 in freelancer watch the video and then you dont have to guess on it. I just did mine
Yeah I already ordered a rebuild kit for it and the idle screw, so hopefully that takes care of that, like you said though I expect to find other small ones. I haven't used soapy water yet, but that's next after the turbo goes back on. Also I heard you can have a boost leak from your injector seals, that's not good because I broke a bolt off that holds the fuel rail down, so im going to have to try to extract it, but it didn't seem to be leaking during the first test.
 
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