wanna do 12's with no nitrious and stock turbo

[GRNDSM]

Until you can figure out what to do with this controller (fix it, set it up or sell it on EBAY), you can pick up Hallman MBC for $50 and see what your car actually runs.

It is always a good idea to keep HMBC around to test your electronic BC if you are having boost controll problems. You can swap in HMBC in less than 2 min and eliminate (or pinpoint) your BC as a cause of your problem.

Leon
RR

 

[Taboo]

Originally posted by pneumo
With the 14b the cams will hurt performance. The 14b starts to run out of steam at about 6k rpm, so the shift points should be lower, like maybe 5800rpm. The cams work best at high rpm. Typically a built car with street cams will shift at about 7200 or so, depending on the setup.

I disagree. We had a pair of WebCams laying around and threw them into otherwise almost stock (K&N + MBC) 1G FWD with 14B - just for the hell of it . The car was simply screaming once the cams kicked in at around 4.5K all the way to the readline - in all gears - and the seat of the pants dyno showed approximately 30HP increase over stock with MBC @ 17psi and pump gas. The bottom line is: If you REALLY want cams, you can run them at any stage of modifications since they're one of the best bangs for the buck upgrades with no need for any other "supporting mods"...
Also, shifting at 5.8K with 14B is WAY too low (even with stock cams). The optimal shift point is around 6.8K and a little bit higher (7.2K) with bigger exhaust, potred manifold, turbo and O2 housing.

 

[rdrkt]

Taboo your observations seem a little…um…off. I would send your ass dyno in to be recalibrated. A 14b will NOT make power decent power until 7k. The turbo just isn’t big enough to support something like that. More than likely the difference you felt in the cams was making no power at all to making power and having it come on all at once. I bet the powerband would have looked pretty crappy. The only thing that would prove a claim like that to us would be either a before and after quarter mile run or a before and after dyno pull.

 

[Taboo]

Originally posted by rdrkt
A 14b will NOT make decent power until 7k. The turbo just isn’t big enough to support something like that.

Turbos don't make power but produce airflow. Stock 14B is rated at 430CFM@15psi and will easily hold 17psi all the way to the redline.

Originally posted by rdrkt
More than likely the difference you felt in the cams was making no power at all to making power and having it come on all at once. I bet the powerband would have looked pretty crappy.

The torque peak occurs at peak volumetric efficiency of the engine. Volumetric efficiency falls off with increasing RPM as there's less time to fill the cylinders. Cams with longer duration give the cylinders more time to fill and the power band moves up to the RPM range. Our turbo engines with 7.8:1 compression produce maximum torque at 3K RPM stock. There's nothing crappy about the peak torque being realized at higher RPM than stock.

Originally posted by rdrkt The only thing that would prove a claim like that to us would be either a before and after quarter mile run or a before and after dyno pull.

I have nothing to prove to anybody. I just shared an observation, that's all. Take it, or leave it.

 

[DDTALON]

Since I don't wish to hop in the middle of our group nut size comparison... I'll just simply state that I don't have a boost controller on the car now, I do however have a two stage switch activated boost controller that I don't have installation directions for. If anyone has that information, I would be very grateful for any shared info....thank you all again for the space and your time. /Steve

 

[tsi_turboawd]

Just like DDTALON said, "Since I don't wish to hop in the middle of our group nut size comparison..." -- I am in progress of getting my car to run 12's on stock 14B, full weight, only 225 Fp and maybe SAFC(if i have to) on fuel system.

I have hit [email protected] last time at the track>check out my mods
ever since i added a 2.5" downpipe recently, but im having problems with boost creep on 3rd gear is that normal on 14B??

 

[2G_TURBO]

Originally posted by DDTALON
Since I don't wish to hop in the middle of our group nut size comparison... I'll just simply state that I don't have a boost controller on the car now, I do however have a two stage switch activated boost controller that I don't have installation directions for. If anyone has that information, I would be very grateful for any shared info....thank you all again for the space and your time. /Steve

what brand is it? i may be able to help you out if it is the turboXS dual mbc....

 

[insane147]

i was in the mid 12's on my ported 14b and SMIC with a 2g mas, 2g mani, 2.5" atmosphere dump o2 housing, 2.5 downpipe, straight exhaust after, 1g "A" cams, hallman MBC.no fuel control back then.....i learned the hard way.

 

[DDTALON]

it is blue and has two knobs on top..and wires coming out of it. i hate to sound ignorant guys but to simplify it by acting 2 yrs old seems to draw the best help from people...very simple to follow instructions. But i do know that my car hits that 17.5lbs of boost and it does not have anything from the wastegate to the filter housing area except the vaccum hose. sombody was saying that is where the MBC taps into....set both dials for the max you want at each and slap a switch on it..i just don't know exactly how the vaccum wires go and what each wire is. /Steve

P.S. thanks

 

[Taboo]

Steve,
This might help you:
http://www.taboospeedshop.com/profec.htm
(the bottom picture)

 

[DDTALON]

MAC is the name brand of the controller...a portion of it is blue..and it does only have one knob..sorry about that but mr TABOO helped out with that link, i'll get that fired up here soon and find out what's up.

On to next dilema: I gutted the entire interior of the car, took the fog lights out and damnit was that a restrictor! Put back the "slightly" hacked mass sensor housing instead of the heavily hacked piece, and now i have fuel cut, I've rarely run into that in the past, only on really cold days where the boost went stupid like 18lbs or so, --WITH NO MBC--it will now POP loudly and shut down for about 3/4 second before coming on strong again, blowing a large smoke cloud-ofcoarse! It will do the fuel cut as low as 15lbs of boost now. I'm sure this is somewhere in the archives or something, but if anyone has info on that or a link to some old writings on it...i'd appreciate that.... oh yeah...i want to FIX IT, not blab about it.... Thanks for your time guys. Oh..system and all...i probably dropped about 160lbs from the car. It still has those stock bumpers though, so i'll do that one day soon and gut this ##### to the max....it is going to be the ass hauler of the two so why not. /Steve

 

[kpt4321]

Originally posted by Taboo

I disagree. We had a pair of WebCams laying around and threw them into otherwise almost stock (K&N + MBC) 1G FWD with 14B - just for the hell of it

What grind?

For the naysayers who think that you need to shift a 14b car at under 6000 rpms: From looking at a compressor map, it seems to me that at about 20 psi and 300-400 cfm, the turbo will still be at 70-72% efficiency. That's pretty good.

I personally run my 14b at about 21-22 psi on race gas, and shift around 7000 rpm, and that has netted me trap speeds of over 106 mph, wqith the stock IC piping, stock SMIC, 2.5 inch exhaust, stock injectors, no fuel control, etc, etc. So, obviously, it's working fine.

 

[Taboo]

Originally posted by kpt4321
What grind?

The 272/256 street grind, nothing wild...

 

[adidas_coin]

North Aurora huh? There sould be a tune shop called Sound Performance near you! They mainly deal with Supra's but they did some of the work on my 2G, Look them up.

 

[hose101772]

in your original post you stated you wanted hks cams.for the same money you could get a 16g.just a thought.

 

[mrfloppy]

Originally posted by adidas_coin
North Aurora huh? There sould be a tune shop called Sound Performance near you! They mainly deal with Supra's but they did some of the work on my 2G, Look them up.

thats in bloomingdale. and besides.... there overpriced out the ass. my friends dad went there for a "high performance" custom exhaust system for his his ranger. all it came out to be a 3" pipe with a 3.5" right before the right wheel. not even dual exhaust and it came out to be: $7**.** He was really pist, most people say if you don't have a Supra don't come in. He is closer to hahn, if anything he should just drive to oswego and go see Hahn Racecraft.