Valve Stem Seals... or worse?

[bbray]

Well i have noticed a slight oil leak in the front of my engine bay and i tried finding where it was coming out at. I also had smoke coming from under my manifold from the oil burning off. If i let my car idle for atleast five minutes i start to have some smoke coming out from my exhaust as well.
The only place i thougt it was coming out was my valve cover where the half moon gasket picece is and dripping down to the manifold. I also thought that the oil was seaping in the manifold gasket and that way why smoke was coming out the exhaust.
So on Wednesday i relpaced my valve cover gasket and the next day i go to work on my car and i let it idle for awhile to make sure i have no leaks. Then after a few minutes my car starts to have smoke coming out of the exaust and all fresh oil on the manifold. So i take off my manifold right away. And i notice the head is all wet inside where the manifold and head connect. And i guess the oil was seaping out of the manifold and that is why i have oil in my engine bay.

So my question is what is causing this? My guess is my heads valve steam seals right? Someone also to me that it could be my block. I have great compression and my car runs fine so i just dont understand how it could be my block. Also how bad is it to be driving with this problem? I dont want to ruin my new evo316g by having oil dripping into it. If it is the head i dont have the money right now to get it rebuilt.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Brandon

 

[oldman]

Yes, sounds very much like valve seals, next step would be to remove the exhaust manifold and check the exhaust ports of the head.

 

[tyger1]

do you have a vented oil catch can connected to your valve cover or at least a breather filter on the left side of the valve cover next to the CAS.

I had the same problem and it ended up being the catch can. I created so much crank case pressure it forced oil out through the manifold and valve seals.

 

[oldman]

do you have a vented oil catch can connected to your valve cover or at least a breather filter on the left side of the valve cover next to the CAS.

I had the same problem and it ended up being the catch can. I created so much crank case pressure it forced oil out through the manifold and valve seals.

That is why it's important to route it back to the intake pipe along with inline filtration.

 

[tyger1]

That is why it's important to route it back to the intake pipe along with inline filtration.

yeah the catch can came with a cap. I had it routed back to the intake but since it was capped off it built up a crap load of pressure.

 

[oldman]

yeah the catch can came with a cap. I had it routed back to the intake but since it was capped off it built up a crap load of pressure.

It's suppose to be capped if rerouted back to the intake. Without knowing the type of catch can and how the rest of your PCV system is routed, I'm not 100% sure but I suspect the issue wasn't your catch can.

 

[bbray]

I dont have a catch can. I do have a fuel filter inbetween the hose that goes from the valve cover to the the intake. I have taken off the exhaust manifold and i do have oil in the runners that come out of the head to the exhaust manifold. Should i get a leakdown test or should i just get my head rebuilt?

Thanks for all of your help.

Brandon

 

[oldman]

Brandon, valve seals are located on the top of the head runners, it's not a part of the combustion chamber so a compression or leakdown does not test the valve seals.

 

[bbray]

I guess my question is.. Could any thing else be causing this or does it have to be the valve stem seals? I just dont want to have to spend so much money and not have the problem fixed.

Thanks for your replies,
Brandon

 

[wvturbo2]

Should be the valve stem seals and they aren't expensive. No need to get you head rebuilt

 

[oldman]

If you see oil gunk dripping down from the top of the exhaust ports, the valve stem seals are shot. Are they shot due to old age or excessive crankcase pressure is something you'll have to figure out.

 

[bbray]

I am already around a grand with all of the stuff for my head rebuild. I guess i am going to replace the timing belt and everything else associated with that at the same time. I am going to go with all oem stuff. I am trying to decide on a stock felt head gasket or a metal . At what point or hp is a metal gasket really necessary? Also how effective is the Magnus Intake Manifold Heat Barrier Gasket? Is it really worth the extra money?

Thanks again for everyones help,
Brandon

 

[bbray]

Is there anything else i should do while the head is off. I am just tired of having problems with my dsm and i want to make sure that there is nothing else that i should do when the head is off. So far this is what i have come up with:

Head Rebuild
ARP Head Studs
Timing Belt Kit (SBR)(mitsu. timing belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and tensioner, balance shaft belt,balance belt tensioner pully)
Valve Stem Seals
Water Pump
New Valve cover gasket
New Throttle Body gasket
Magnus Intake Manifold Heat Barrier Gasket
Metal Head Gasket

Thanks,
Brandon

 

[wvturbo2]

exhaust manifold gasket.

 

[bbray]

exhaust manifold gasket.

Oh yeah, I also have a OEM 4 Layer Manifold Gasket.

 

[wvturbo2]

While stuff is pulled apart I'd see if your oil pan gasket is leaking or any other leaks as well thats all i can think of.

 

[bbray]

While stuff is pulled apart I'd see if your oil pan gasket is leaking or any other leaks as well thats all i can think of.

I will be sure to check that too. How bad is it to be driving my car with bad valve stem seals? I wont have the money to get my stuff done for a couple of weeks. Should i be looking for rides or is it not going to ruin anything else. I have a new evo316g in and i dont want to ruin that aswell. But at the same time i dont really have another car to drive.

Thanks for your help wvturbo2,
Brandon

 

[oldman]

Brandon, I would go with the stock composite gasket with ARP torqued down to 85psi, if you go with the OEM MLS (95psi), make sure that both surfaces are clean and flat. I also do not think you will need the intake heat barrier gasket but it wouldn't hurt if money isn't an issue.

 

[bbray]

How bad do you think it is for me to be driving my car? Should i stop right away or is it ok to be driving it for awhile if i stay out of boost?

 

[tyger1]

I personally would stop driving the car. but honestly you can drive it. just be smoking alot and would smell. but it is your car so it is up to you

 

[selmerguy]

Remove the balance shafts while it is apart. I would do this anytime someone has the Timing belt off and they still have those pesky shafts in the motor still.

 

[bbray]

Thanks for all of your help. Now i just need to save up a little money so i can buy all of my parts.

Brandon

 

[bbray]

Is it nessary to get new valves, rockers, lifters, springs, retainers, and valve locks? Should the stock ones be fine or should i put new ones in while everything is out?

 

[oldman]

Is it nessary to get new valves, rockers, lifters, springs, retainers, and valve locks? Should the stock ones be fine or should i put new ones in while everything is out?

You can re-use them if they look fine but I would change at least the valve guides. You can also change the valve seals with the head in the car but you will need a special tool call "Miller's tool".

 

[bbray]

Does anyone know how long it should take to replace the valve stem seals with the head still on the car? I was just quoted 11 hours of work for $770 from a shop. Does this sound right? I have read the vfaq's step by step but how hard is this to do myself? I am thinking about buying the tool, fixing my head, and then selling the tool. I just dont have any experience with head work so i dont want to mess anything up.

Thanks,
Brandon